Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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47.50120°N / 10.61430°E |
Route Type:
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Technical Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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VI+ (one step) VI |
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Approach
See North Face. Beginning of the route is a dihedral at the lowermost end of the so- called "Gimpelband" The "Gimpelband" is the 250 meters long & ca. 45 degrees steep ledge that crosses the North face from the left lower to the right upper.
Route Description
The Schertelplatte is a big slab, 60 meters high, 20 meters wide and can be seen from the valley 15 minutes above the Fuessener Huette. On the preceding evening take yourself time to watch the route. Climb up the Gimpelband for 150 meters (III, no belay possible). After the 2nd steep passage of the Gimpelband (70 m under the giant slab) turn left, traverse 10 meters of steep & deep scree to the face. The slab can not be seen from the Gimpelband. There is a bolt at the beginning of the climb. All belay stations and the first 4 pitches (30m V / 40m VI+ / 45m VI- / 40 m V-) are bolted. They lead to and over the slab. Keep right to the edge (45m III+ IV-) and via unsteep slabs (30 m IV- IV) to a belay station under a wide ledge. Cross this ledge and climb cracks left of the edge to the head of a buttress (30m V+ bolted). Cracks right of the edge (XXX-exposed) to the head of a buttress (20m V+ bolted). Follow the edge like an arete to the headwall (40m IV). Keep left of the edge, leave it diagonally and then traverse left to the center of chimney (35 m V VI bolted). Climb the chimney and a crack left of it (40m V+ bolted). Now the summit crucifix can be seen. Follow the nearly horizontal grass to the next belay station (bolt), keep on the highest point of the arete until a belay station on a big block (50m II III). Follow the arete to the Nortwestern summit (walk 100 m), abseil 10 meters and climb the rocky grass (II) to the summit. (!!! slippery when wet and even sometimes when dry !!!) The Tour report by Lampi [tm] contains photos of the climb and the wall.
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Essential Gear
The belay and cruxes are bolted, take webbings, rocks and friends of every size, no pitons. Take stable shoes for the descent (NO ABSEIL) and a NEW WEATHER REPORT.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.