The 'must' in those days. There were so many pegs then, that with my pal from Marseille, 'Tostin' (Yves Besson) we were jumping 2 pegs out of 3! We did it in 7 hours, equalling then Michel Vaucher best time (most parties were still bivouacking on it but in Marseille we were pegging specialists and so very used to pegged routes. George Livanos with whom we climbed was the greatest then teacher in pegging routes as he proved it in the Dolomites). And lucky we did as in the middle of our descent we were hit by a huge storm and lightnings.
Great, great, great. Sunny route on this famous mountain. We had a bit of verglas in the last two lengths.
Great route, catch the very first lift in Cham and don't sit around if you want to do it in a day. Some large cams and cojones needed.