6/24/06: via Direct Exum - Started from Lupine Meadows TH at 1:30am and summited just before 11:00. A great June day, not a cloud in the sky and only a handful of climbers scattered on the mountain. Fun route on excellent rock.
5/13/06: via Stettner Couloir - Climbed with Brian on a crystal clear Spring day. Camped at the Meadows on day 1, then summited via the Stettner Couloir on day 2. Didn't see a single person anywhere on the mountain the entire day.
When I was a wee lad of 12 my dad and brothers went up this great climb. An amazing day for an amazing trip, along with climbing Steeple Peak in the Wind River which to this day still remains my favorite climb.
Seemed way too easy the second time around!
Second time up the upper exum. This time with 3 friends who had never been out of the gym. What a great first climb! As we started hiking the northern lights were out in full force.
See my trip report: http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/176526/A-Grand-Old-Time.html
Ran into R. Garibotti (sp?) on between the Lower and Upper saddles. He was guiding and Exum group up the OS. They and we were going to do the upper exum, but because of snow the night before, we opted for the OS. We also ran into some Jackson Hole Mtn Guides on the summit, one named "Bean" who rolled his own cigarettes on the summit.
Beautiful climb, great weather, took us a while.
A wonderful time with my good friend Karl Lainhart. This was a grand adventure for two Kentucky boys with limited alpine experience. Spent the night on the lower saddle, then summited the next day in great weather.
I climbed the Grand once in summer 1993 and ten times in spring/summer 1996 by the following routes: Owen-Spaulding (2x), Direct Exum (2x), Upper Exum, Petzoldt Ridge, Underhill Ridge, East Ridge, North Ridge and North Face. I climbed the North Face in 19.5 hours car to car with someone who later became an Exum Guide. It was our first and only climb together. I made the mistake of starting up the first 5.6/7 pitch in my hiking boots and took a 10-15 foot whipper about 100 feet above the glacier. Brian was probably thinking, "what the hell have I gotten myself into!" I then put on my climbing shoes while hanging from a single cam and tried desperately to redeem myself. We did quite a lot of simul-climbing and encountered occasional showers of rock and ice while on route. We summitted at 4:30 and enjoyed light rain during the rappels on descent. A true alpine experience!
I came to Wyoming with one goal only, to climb the Grand Teton....and after three months of working in Yellowstone and recruiting a crew that would help me make that dream possible, it happened. But, I believe it was a combination of luck, will and determination that helped us to accomplish this feat. Thus to all those that seriously doubted us, and thought that we would die somewhere, somehow on this trip....well it didn't quite work out like that. This was an amazing culmination for me, of a dream, of a plan, of a summit that I wanted to do....
Long day scramble and climb, in part because of the permit system. The Rappel was the most exhilirating part of the day. Regardless of how many people, this peak is special.
What a beautiful place...I can't wait to come back!!
We originally wanted to climb the Exum Direct but it was quite cold in the morning and we didn't want to climb with gloves on. The guide groups left quite a bit earlier than us so we had some trouble finding Broadway to start the Upper Exum. It was obvious once we found it. To help the acclimitization, we spent a night at the Meadows, then the Saddle before summiting.
It was a perfect day and a great scramble/climb. We ran into some traffic on the way up and at the rappels on the way down. The Jackson Mountain guides generously allowed us to alternate with their group on the 120 ft rappel. Thanks guys! Check out the trip photos at http://www.intergate.com/~devendorf/GrandTeton-Jul'05/pages/078f%20Tetons_edited.html