Guatemala Hiking, Guide for the Unguided

Notice: I initially wrote this guide when I was a Peace Corps Volunteer in Guatemala during 2008 and it has not been updated since then. Feel free to add any updates to the comments section. 

This guide is a selection of some of my favorite hikes available here in Guatemala. I have rated their difficulty, and listed the time it took me to complete each of the hikes. Keep in mind that times for the trips are listed as ascent times, don’t forget to add time for the descent. Also, the times listed are for people who are physically fit and traveling at a descent speed.

For those interested in hiking with a guide, Quetzal Trekkers in Xela (connected to Casa Argentina) is a great non-for-profit hiking company that has a variety of hikes ranging from 1 to 4 days. OX in Antigua is also another good foreign-run company that offers all-inclusive hikes up Guatemala's peaks. I recommend inquiring with these companies about safety before doing any DIY hike in Guatemala. While it is always recommended to hike in groups or with locals who know the language and terrain, I have to note that I have hiked all over Guatemala -- and have spent over 100 days outside there -- with only one serious safety issue (my group was robbed at gunpoint while descending from Acatenango in 2007). The campesinos (local farmers) are typically polite and reserved people who are helpful, especially if you speak decent Spanish. 

Volcanoes of Western Guatemala

Volcán Santa María 

Location of start of hike: Quetzaltenango (henceforth referred to by its local name: Xela)

Santa María is a classic hike just outside of Xela. It can easily be done in one day from the city center. To get to the starting point of the trail, get a Q2 bus from Minerva (near el mercado municipal), Parque Calvario, or failing that a cab. In either case, your destination is the Aldea Llano del Pinal (30 minutes from Minerva). The hike is done from the drop off point in the Aldea (ask the bus driver where the trail starts). The summit time is 3-4 hours from the Aldea up a trial that continually gets steeper. The earlier you start, the better chance there is that there will be a good view from the top. Adrenaline Tours maintains a small “office” at the base of the trail (Look for the Adrenaline Tours sign on the right side of the trial as you begin your hike). As of 2008, you could use their pit toilet there free of charge. This is the last spot on the hike that has anything commercial. Several tiendas exist in Llano del Pinal to buy water before heading out on the hike.

The trail has three main parts: first to La Maseta, second to the landslide and third to the summit. Each portion takes approximately the same amount of time, but the distances get shorter as the trail is getting progressively steeper.

The hike begins as most volcano ascents in Guatemala, following a trail through milpa fields and past campesinos. This is the most challenging part in terms of not getting lost as there are numerous side trails. Ask the locals for the way to “la maseta”. The first landmark to look for is a large tree in the middle of an open area about 15 minutes into the hike just left of the trail. The first major turnoff is about 15 minutes after that, (or 30 minutes or so into the hike) where you will see a line of 12 or 13 agave trees on the right hand side of the trail. The agave trees look a bit out of place in the ecosystem, the tops of them almost look like large pineapple foliage. If you go straight, as the trail beckons you to do, you’ll be lost, so look to your left directly across from the agave trees for a thin footpath which climbs to a small rocky hill. Continue on this trail for another about 30 minutes, until you reach a flat grassy plain called the maseta. On a clear day, the Santa María summit is visible to the right of the maseta. Break off that trail (which continues straight) and head up a secondary trail to the right, through waist high grasses and towards the summit of Santa María. From there the trail heads up steeply towards the summit. The second spot to be careful at is a landslide (derrumbe) created by Stan in 2005. Hike across the landslide, making sure not to attempt traveling up it. Find the trail directly on the other side. Continue up through steep pine forest to the summit.
Throughout the hike great views can be had of Xela and the surrounding valley. Upon reaching the summit, the ever active Volcán Santiaguito comes into view. On one trip, we climbed an hour through falling ash from nearby Santiaguito and upon reaching the top had a 1,000 foot plume of smoke and rock burst out of the crater. Several decent camping spots exist on and directly past the summit. Mayan ceremonies are still practiced on the Volcano. Please be respectful of local ceremonies and do not take photos without asking. 

Santa María from the start of the hike to its lofty summit

Samta María From Volcán Zunil

Samta María Summit

Above the clouds on Santa Maria

Looking down on Santiaguito while she begins a full eruption. This shot was taken from the summit of Santa Maria.

Volcán Cerro Quemado

Location of start of hike: Xela

This volcano, which is just south of Xela, actually appears as a spine poking out of the left shoulder of Cerro Candelaria, and makes for a great day hike. From the summit Mayan ceremonies can be heard resonating throughout the nearby peaks.

It is important to point out that this hike can be done quickly by foot (we got to the top in two hours from Xela’s Parque Central), or even quicker with public transportation. From the Parque Central, walk south (towards the Cristo Viene sign). In a few blocks you won’t be able to walk any farther South, take a left and head up hill - on the ‘highway’ towards Almolonga. As soon as you get on the Almolonga ‘highway’ you will be able to differentiate between Cerro Quemado from Cerro Candelaria - look for a rocky outcropping that looks like several craggy fingers sticking up from the ridgeline to the left of the summit of Candelaria – that’s where you are headed.

Alternatively take a bus from Xela towards Almolonga. In either case, you will be on this highway only for about one Kilometer. Then get off the highway taking a road to the right which heads toward the Cerros and also the thermal baths marked on the highway as “Baños Los Vahos” (a fairly well-known spot, and a good landmark for this hike.  The baths are created from geothermal energy from the still active Volcano and are a good stop on the return from a long hike). After heading up the road for about 200 meters, you will come to a sign that says “Baños los Vahos”; the baths are up the dirt road to the right, but you want to keep going straight (leftish).  Walk up the paved road for about 30 minutes and you will arrive at a community called Chicuá. Directly before the village and at the sign talking about unauthorized entrance into the village take a right off the road onto an obvious trail paved with stones. 15 minutes up this trail will bring you to a soccer field. From there several obvious paths lead up to the multi-summit Volcán Cerro Quemado.

Enjoy time climbing around the craggy summit, and the great views of Xela, but beware, the volcanic rock is very unstable. From there either visit the lava hole directly to the South-East, or head back via Baños Los Vahos (read description below) for some relaxation time..

For more information contact Quetzal Trekkers in Xela

Volcán Cerro Quemado Summit Block

Volcán Cerro Quemado with Field

Los Vahos and Cerro Candelaria

Location of start of hike: Zunil, Quetzaltenango 

There are two ways to get to Los Vahos. The first one follows the description for Volcán Cerro Quemado above, heading out of Xela on the Almolonga Highway.  

Here is the second route: from the Parque Central in Xela, walk South on 12th Avenue towards the Cristo Viene sign. When it ends, turn right and look for Plazuela de San Antonio on your left. Take the road to the right of the Plazuela, uphill. (The map on Lonely Planet is good to begin) Continue traveling uphill, then a little bit more uphill before you pass the Alquimista turnoff and eventually find yourself standing in front of the church, admiring the view of Xela. Keep following the road uphill (as it turns into a footpath) and around a few switchbacks until it straightens out for a while, passing a blue house on the right before you come to a corner of an old stone wall. Take a left, keeping the wall on your right. The path leads to a round stone house, and a Y intersection. Take the left, which eventually ends at a gravel road. A right leads to Los Vahos, left goes back down to the main Almolanga highway. Turn right heading towards Los Vahos. This makes an enjoyable, short day-hike from Xela. If you want to make a loop, start by going up towards the Cristo Viene sign and return via the Almolonga Highway.

The trail to Cerro Candelaria starts directly before you arrive at Los Vahos. There is a small field to your left and the trail leads out from there. It’s kind of hidden, so you might have to search around for it or ask at Los Vahos. Once you find the trail, keep following it up. There are trails that break off, but if you keep climbing you will reach the summit. From the trailhead, it’s two or three hours to the summit.

Cerro Candelaria Peak

Cerro Candelaria, Right on the Trail

Volcán Santo Tomas & Zunil 

Location of start of hike: Fuentes Georginas (Accessed via Zunil), Quetzaltenango

The hot springs at Fuentes Georginas, one of Xela’s premier outdoor locations, also provides the starting point for 2 of Xela’s smaller volcanoes. The two can be combined in one long day, with great camping possibilities on the summit of Volcán Santo Tomas. Alternatively, you could climb either one of the volcanoes in one day, and return back to Fuentes for a nighttime dip in the hot springs. Either way, the volcano / hot spring combination makes for a great weekend, and the accessibility of these volcanoes makes the trip easy for people who aren’t looking for a lot of planning. Keep in mind that this hike is best done in the dry season.

To get to the volcanoes, make your way to the municipality of Zunil. From there take a pick-up (a fixed Q40 rate) to Fuentes Georginas. From the main office complex, ask the employees where the trailhead begins. You can also store extra bags at the office. To start, follow a steep trail from Fuentes Georginas up through bamboo forest, staying on a well worn but poorly maintained trail the whole time. In about an hour you will come to a flat opening with a small blue cross to the right. There are 3 trails leading out of the opening, take the one furthest to the left. Continue uphill, making sure to NOT head down intersecting trails with white PVC pipe which cross the main trail.

The trail you are on dead ends in a T-intersection with an obvious dirt road, (marked on the map as ROAD) where you will take a right. The road immediately turns into a trail which leads to a large rock overhang on the left which would act as a decent shelter during the rainy season. 100 meters past the overhang leads you to the saddle between the volcanoes. A left can be taken at the saddle to summit Volcán Zunil, or continue straight on the obvious path to Santo Tomas. No other turn offs exist on the trail to either summit.

For more information or guides, contact the Guardebosques in the Zunil Municipality.

Volcán Chicabal

Location of start of hike:  San Martín Sacatepéquez, Quetzaltenango

A beautiful and easily accessible Volcano in the Western Highlands outside of Xela. The volcano includes a crater lake that is sacred to the local indigenous Mam population. Sacerdotes (Mayan priests) commonly practice rituals and ceremonies on the shores of the lake, their festivals culminating annually in the Pedida Por La Lluvia 40 days after Easter. Foreigners are asked to remain off the volcano during the Mayan ceremonies. One could easily begin the day in Xela, get to the lake, and make it back to Xela later that day. Bungalows and lakeside camping sites also exist. The starting point for the volcano is accessed from the municipality of San Martin Sacatepéquez (a 40 minute Q4 micro ride from Xela or a 15 minute Q3 rise from San Juan Ostuncalco).
Several options exist to get to the Laguna Seca, the starting point for the trailhead. Micros Q4 marked Chicabal leave the center of San Martín several times daily (although the schedule is not very fixed). Alternatively, one could walk to the Laguna Seca in approximately 2hours from the center of town. If walking from the center of town, ask locals about which roads to take. Several nonsensical curving streets exist to confuse visitors.

Alternatively, take an Esmerelda micro from the center of San Martín to the entrance of the Aldea La Estancia. Take a left off the main carretera (away from the aldea of La Estancia) down a small hill and across a bridge, and then follow signs through various aldeas towards the Laguna Seca. Walking time form this route is approximately 1 ½ hours.

Volcán Chicabal is currently managed by ASAECO Update 2013: it looks like ASAECO is running guided hikes, with multi-day options. This organization is 100% locally operated. All proceeds go directly to the local, Mam-Maya community of San Martín. 

The cost to get in is Q5 for nationals and Q15 for international visitors. Snacks and water are available at the visitor’s center at the Laguna Seca. From the Laguna Seca, the hike to the summit of the crater and to two well constructed lookout points (Mirador) is about an hour up an obvious dirt trail. After about 45min, hikers will arrive at a split in the trail, left takes you to the lookout points and right will take you down to the Laguna. My preference is to go to the mirador first. From there, great views of constantly erupting Santiaguito (which destroyed San Martín when it initially erupted in 1902) and Santa Maria can be had to the east on clear days. To the west, you can see down into the Crater Lake, and out to the chain of volcanoes beyond. From there, walk down the 600 steps to the Laguna’s shore where a trail circumnavigates the lake. When you are done enjoying the Laguna, hike up to the main trail at the top of the crater. There are various trails leading up from the Laguna, the one you are looking for starts as a small landslide, where you will quickly veer to the left and continue up.

The Chicabal Volcano from San Martin Sacatepequez, the town where the hike up the volcano begins

Flowers are commonly placed at the shore of the lake after a ceremony

Chicabal Volcano looms in the background of San Martin Sacatepequez

Volcán de Ipala 

Location of start of hike: Agua Blanca, Jutiapa

A long exposure while my climbing partner cooks some grub.

Volcán San Pedro 

Location of start of hike: San Pedro La Laguna, Sololá

San Pedro makes for a great day hike, and is the easiest of the 3 volcanoes to summit near the lake. This peak is set beautifully on Lake Atitlán and sits just across the lake from Panajachel. The volcano is currently being supervised under an organization who is handling the tourism in quite a sustainable fashion. Because of this you are asked to hire a guide through the organization, cost Q100 per person. The guides are quite well informed, and take small groups which is always a plus. The trail is very straight forward, and safe, just continue up until you reach the summit.

Volcán de Agua 

Volcân Acatenango and Fuego from Volcân Agua's Summit

Volcán De Agua Summit

Volcán de Acatenango 

Location of the start of the hike: Acatenango , Chimaltenango

Sunrise atop Acatenango

This is about as far as you can climb on Fuego without really putting your life at risk. This shot shows the approach ridgeline (looking down) to give people an idea of what the hike is like on the upper slopes.

On a failed attempt to summit Volcan Atitlan, Lucas and I enjoy the view. In the distance are the Fuego and Acatenango volcanoes. The shot gives a good idea of how massive Aca and Fuego are, and how high the connecting ridgeline is.

Katherine, Dan, and I pose, frigid in the cold morning air.

Mist quickly engulfs the hills that flank Acatenango.

Tent in the crater of Acatenango. The camp site only gives partial shelter from the wind. Fuego (which woke us up about 4 times during the night with eruptions) looms in the background.

Alta Verapaz Hikes

Sachichaj and Sataña Waterfalls

Lush Surroundings of Alta Verapaz

Sachichaj

Sataña

Holy Biodiversity Batman!

Volcán Tajumulco

Location of the start of the hike: Llano De La Guardia, San Marcos

Tajumulco Topo Map

Volcanoes of Western Guatemala

Clothing & Gear List

Clothing:

Gear for day trips:

Gear for overnight trips: