James Peak & St. Mary's Glacier Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 124

bigwilly - Mar 13, 2005 10:53 pm

Route Climbed: South Slopes from Berthoud Pass Date Climbed: August 2002  Sucess!

I climbed this peak in a sixteen mile monster shuttle hike between Bertoud Pass and Rollins Pass. Spectacular views of the Indian Peaks are visible from the top.


ColoradoScott - Feb 9, 2005 3:26 pm

Route Climbed: South Ridge Loop Route. Date Climbed: August 28, 1983  Sucess!

This was a car shuttle hike with the CMC. We bagan the hike near Alice, where the 4WD portion of the road begins. We hiked up this road to Loch Lomond. Then we ascended Mt. Bancroft's SE Ridge. From there we descended down it's steep north ridge to the narrow ridge and saddle above Ice Lake. from this saddle there is 200-300 feet of steep scrambling before reaching the summit plateau. A half mile stroll reaches the summit of James. It was many years ago, but I would guess that this ridge is rated either Class II+ or maybe even III.

Just after leaving this summit, I had an eerie deja vu sensation...really odd. We descended the east ridge down to St. Mary's Glacier and then to it's parking area below. We rested while other members of the party retrieved the other vehicles.


jrf - Dec 10, 2004 4:43 pm

Route Climbed: St. Mary's Glacier Date Climbed: December 4, 2004  Sucess!

Really not a bad day considering it is December. Be prepared for wind up on the flats though. Glacier was hard as a rock and we did some crampon practice on the way down. People were trying to ski and snowboard but weren't having much luck.

I'll be doing this in winter again. This is a nice fairly safe mountain to do this time of year.


chip00 - Aug 18, 2004 11:13 am

Route Climbed: Loch Lomonde to Summit Date Climbed: July 11, 2004  Sucess!

Easy trail to follow. Be prepared for much cooler temps. and wind on the summit. Summit log was missing.


shannarae2k - Jul 9, 2004 3:29 pm

Route Climbed: Via Rogers Pass Date Climbed: July 4th, 2004  Sucess!

Wonderful mountain. Beautiful day!


bdewoody - Jun 13, 2004 6:30 pm

Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: June 12, 2004  Sucess!

Summited James Peak after climbing Mount Eva, Flora and Bancroft from Berthoud Pass. Caught in a thunder/snow storm on the way up and white-out conditions on the way down. Quite a hike!


DaveC - May 20, 2004 9:54 pm

Route Climbed: e ridge Date Climbed: jan 99  Sucess!

finally, on the 4th winter attempt, success. blowing snow spelled failure the other 3 times.

Ryan Kowalski

Ryan Kowalski - Apr 9, 2004 12:00 pm

Route Climbed: Southeast Slopes via St. Mary's Date Climbed: April, 01, 2004  Sucess!

What a day! Felt very out of shape on the way up but had beautiful weather and snow. The plateau was practically snow free! And of course, awesome glissading on the glacier.


pphlux - Mar 19, 2004 11:43 pm

Route Climbed: St. Mary's Glacier Date Climbed: Dec. 2003  Sucess!

Very cold and windy day.

We were practically being blown off the glacier, but the wind

subsided a bit once we were on the turndra above the glacier.

The summit seemed so close from the small rock outcrop

on the flat tundra approach. It was really quite a distance.

Great summit, highly recommended overall, especially in winter.

Some photos Here:



miztflip - Mar 18, 2004 5:34 pm

Route Climbed: Southeast Slopes via Saint Mary's Glacier Date Climbed: 18 March 2004  Sucess!

What and awesome day. Despite the high winds, the temps were warm and the sky clear. The views were absolutely amazing. The snow pack was very solid although I measured most slopes to be 25 degrees or less. Jamaica is blown clean except for a thin ice coat. Saw several people in the area.


Kessler - Mar 16, 2004 6:45 pm

Route Climbed: Rogers Pass Date Climbed: August 16 2003

Carried by mom. Stopped at Rodgers Pass because of bad weather.


big_g - Feb 28, 2004 9:34 pm Date Climbed: Feb 28, 2004

Route Climbed: East ridge via St. Mary's Glacier  Sucess!

Got turned back once in December but I bagged this one with a small group of intrepid CMC hikers today.

Three people had to turn back but the 5 person summit team pushed on through a white out to the summit and navigated back to our snowshoes with common sense, altimeter, and compass.

granddeity - Feb 12, 2004 4:08 am

Route Climbed: St Mary's Glacier Date Climbed: October 2003  Sucess!

Nice warm day. The Glacier was tiny, but two guys were still trying to snowboard on it.


Nelson - Nov 25, 2003 9:51 pm

Route Climbed: St. Mary's Glacier Date Climbed: April, 1998  Sucess!

Ascended the entire way on snowshoes. I pulled ahead of my friends and reached the top as clouds lowered. I presumed it was the summit because of the outline of the windbreaks under the snow. It felt like a summit, but I couldn't see too far. Fortunately I had shot a compass bearing to get back across Jamaica Flats, and I caught up with my friends there. Great day!


jeffgun - Nov 15, 2003 5:19 pm

Route Climbed: St. Mary's Glacier Date Climbed: 2001, 2003  Sucess!

Been up this one twice, the first time was training for Rainier and the second was training for Orizaba. St. Mary's is a good place to get used to the crampons again and get comfortable being roped together.


RyanS - Oct 7, 2003 5:34 pm

Route Climbed: South Slopes via St. Mary's Glacier Date Climbed: October 5, 2003  Sucess!

It was cloudy when we summitted, but the clouds broke as we crossed back over the Jamaica flats on our return. Nice day out there, but too many ATVs! A trip report is available here.


Scott - Aug 21, 2003 12:25 pm

Route Climbed: north Date Climbed: August 16 2003  Sucess!

Snow, hail, and rain up high. My 15 month old son, Kessler and wife Kimberly waited down at Rodgers Pass for me to summit.

PeterD. - Aug 4, 2003 12:25 am

Route Climbed: St. Mary Glacier Date Climbed: Mid Feb., 2000  Sucess!

I have climbed from this route in winter maybe 6 or 7 times but what viewers of this page should note is the potential treacherousness of the flat area from the glacier to the mountain base (for some reason it is called "Jamaica"). I got caught in a white-out on the way back on this trip and spent hours wandering around as it was getting dark, going down wrong gullys, and finally by trial and error found the top of St. Mary's. I was more mad at myself than scared, but it could have been nasty ( and cold). Always bring a compass and take your readings. Retreat at the first sign of weather. I suppose it would not be a nice place to be caught during an electrical storm, either!


395guy - Jul 15, 2003 7:27 pm

Route Climbed: tressle to Rogers Pass to James Peak Date Climbed: July 1, 2003  Sucess!

Great hike along the Continental Divide. Easy, relatively level hike up to Rogers Pass. The guidebook I had consulted for this hike said that there was no trail going up to James Peak, only bouldering. I was surprised to find a well defined trail cut by shovels complete with switchbacks and red flag markers on the northeast side of the peak. On top by 8:05am.

Weather conditions were perfect (clear skies, 60s, virtually no wind, no threatening clouds) so I decided to go on across to Bancroft (13,250) and then to Parry Peak (13,391). I radioed back to my family at their house in Fraser that I was doing this. If I had realized that I was already halfway to Berthoud Pass, I would have continued on to there. Instead, I turned around and came back across Bancroft and James Peaks.

There was no log book on top of Parry Peak. There was a log book on top of James but no pen or pencil to sign it with! I did sign the log book on Bancroft.


Grant - Mar 21, 2003 2:46 pm

Route Climbed: St Mary's Glacier Date Climbed: Nov. 4, 2001  Sucess!

This mountain is a very good conditioning mountain and would be a great snowshoe in the winter.

James has some great views and we were able to see the Flattops Wilderness.

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