Kangaroo - North Ledges Traverse

Page Type
Route
Location:
Oregon, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Difficulty:
R/X
Rock Difficulty:
5.6 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
3

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Created On: Mar 26, 2008
Last Edited On: Mar 30, 2008

Overview

The easiest route to the summit of the Kangaroo contains some serious old school 5.6 and lots of rotten rock. The climbing is cool, up some very cool features, but is not a beginner route. So remember you could fall a long ways on this route and get hurt.

Getting There

Hike out past Brogan Spire to the north side of the Kangaroo behind the Wallaby. There is a distinct ampitheater where this climb begins.

Route Description

North Ledges Traverse Topo


P1 - 5.6R - 60ft - Boulder up and into the ampitheater head back to the chimney formed by the Kangaroo and the Joey.

P2 - 5.6R/X - 80ft - Chimney up to a bolt, and start the ledges traverse. Continue right past 2 old bolts and a horrible fixed pin. There is a possible #4 camalot placement to back up the fixed pin but you must climb up to place it and then climb back down. Eventually you will find your self at a 3 bolt belay with one new bolt. This pitch is pretty serious for the grade with lots of loose rock.

P3 - 5.3R - 60ft - Climb up the solid slab to the summit. There are no rappel anchors on the summit, so you must down climb this pitch. There are a few cam placements to help.

Descent: From the summit, downclimb P3 to the top of P2, make 1 single rope rappel to the ground.

P1 & P2 link easily but create rope drag and put your belayer in the rock fall zone.

Essential Gear

6 Long slings
4 Cams .5-2" and mabey a 4"

External Links

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Kangaroo - North Ledges Traverse

Route
1 Images 0 Climber's Log Entries 1 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

Geography

Routes in Oregon

Parents

Oregon PinnaclesRoutes
 
Smith: The MarsupialsRoutes