Page Type:
|
Area/Range |
|---|---|
Activities:
|
Hiking, Trad Climbing, Aid Climbing, Scrambling |
Season:
|
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
|
Overview
Turkey MonsterThis page is meant to serve as an at-a-glance reference of the various pinnacle and dome routes in Oregon. Individual pages are for the most part self-contained so no additional information needs to be posted. A more comprehensive summary of Smith Rock spires can be found here. This is Oregon adventure peak-bagging at its finest - enjoy!
Here's two more sites to whet your appetites: Wayne's (Oregon) site & Tim's site (...whose book probably got me interested in this stuff in the first place).
Another related object that might have some related info. is here.
Spire Rock
Castle RockListing Of Formations And Routes
Scared
Bolts Everywhere
Bolts
Even More BoltsThe evolving list below provides at-a-glance summary of formations and routes. Only those routes that reach the summit of a given formation are listed.
Note that I've also thrown in some non-tower/non-spire formations (examples include Wolf Rock, Pilot Rock, Acker Rock) based on the fact that most hold obscure lines on them that rarely get done (just like spires) and the fact that they DO have a summit. I suppose this could be called "Oregon Adventure Climbs" page but that sounds less dramatic.
Central Oregon
West Face
Northeast Face
Steins Pillar
Squaw Rock
Rising Expectations
Monkey FaceMonkey Face (Smith)
Pioneer Route II 5.7 A0
West Face Variation II 5.8 A0
Monkey Space II 5.11b
West Face III 5.6 C2
Northwest Passage III 5.7 C2
East Face III 5.7 C2+
Smith Rock Group Spires (Smith)
West Smith Summit A0
Arrowpoint - Northwest Face 5.2
The Platform 5.1 R
Staender Ridge Spires (Smith)
Flattop - Lost Fox 5.8
Flattop - Lieback Flake 5.4
Bette's Needle - Juniper Snag 5.6 R
Bette's Needle - Limestone Chimney 5.3
Staender Summit - Northwest Corner 5.3
Independence Tower - North Side 5.5
The Mole - North Ramp Variation 5.0
The Marsupials Spires (Smith)
Kangaroo - North Ledges 5.6 R
Koala Rock - Round River 5.4 R
Brogan Spire - Cave Route 5.6
The Marsupial Traverse 5.8
Brogan Spire - Loose Hookers 5.6 A1+
Squaw Rock (Smith)
Spiral I 5.1 X
Victoria Spire (Smith)
Catherines Ridge 5.6 R
Steins Pillar
Northeast Face III 5.8 A2 or 5.11a
Western Oregon
Barad-Dur
Dod Route
Cave Route
Turkey Monster
Old Man
Rabbit EarsTurkey Monster (Menagerie)
Dod Route III 5.11 or C2F
Rabbit Eears (Southern Cascades)
West Ear Summit Route 5.5
Old Man and Old Woman
Dilley's Delight(Old Man) II 5.9
Northwest Ridge(Old Woman) I 5.4 R
Rabbit Ears (Menagerie)
Standard Route (South Ear) III 5.8 R
The Cave Route (North Ear) II 5.10a
Rooster Rock (Menagerie)
North Face 5.4 R
Pilot Rock
Wolf Rock
Coligula 5.7
Southwest Gullies Class 2-3
Barad Dur III 5.9 A2 or 5.11
Acker Rock
Peregrine Traverse 5.7
Shepard Tower Of Metolius
Northeast Corner 5.2
Elephant Rock
Ugly Loose Grovelly Chimney 5.7
Spire Rock
Southeast Corner 5.5
Needle Rock
Northwest Corner 5.8
Castle Rock (SW Oregon)
Scramble Route low 5th class
Breitenbush Ears
tbd ??
Columbia River Gorge
South Face
Pillars Of Hercules
Phoca Rock
Cigar RockPhoca Rock
Southeast Face 4th class
Rooster Rock
South Face I 5.4
Pillars Of Hercules
East Route I 5.4
St. Peters Dome
South Saddle Direct (?) III A3 (?)
Little Cougar Rock
South Ridge 5.5
Beacon Rock (...practically Oregon)
Southeast Face II 5.7
The Rabbit Ears (a.k.a. Sacajawea & Pappoose Rocks)
North Face/Gully (TR) II 5.4
Eastern Oregon
Castle RockCastle Rock
The Route low 5th class
Oregon's Tower Triple Crown
My choice for Oregon's three biggest towers is below. There might be other reasonable candiates (Monkey Face, Twin Pillars, others?) here but these in my mind are the ones that stand out. The top two have free (5.11) routes to their summits (though we aided both) while St. Peters Dome is strictly a nail-up. Easiest summit line ratings given for each as well. Rank number reflects my opinion as to the relative difficulty of the three (1 being easiest). Thanks to Anya Jingle for allowing me to use her html code as starting point for this.| Difficulty Rank | Tower | Photo Of The Tower | Easiest Summit Route | Location | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1. |
|
Northeast Face (III 5.8 A2) |
Ochoco Mountains in central Oregon. |
||
| 2. |
|
|
Dod Route (III C2F) |
Menagerie Wilderness in western Oregon. |
|
| 3. |
|
South Saddle Direct (III 5.6 A3 ?) |
Columbia River Gorge, Oregon. |
||
