Oregon Pinnacles

Page Type
Area/Range
Location:
Oregon, United States, North America
Activities:
Hiking, Trad Climbing, Aid Climbing, Scrambling
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
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Page By:
rpc
Oregon Pinnacles
Created On: Jan 12, 2006
Last Edited On: Jan 15, 2010

Overview

Monster In The WoodsTurkey Monster

This page is meant to serve as an at-a-glance reference of the various pinnacle and dome routes in Oregon. Individual pages are for the most part self-contained so no additional information needs to be posted. A more comprehensive summary of Smith Rock spires can be found here. This is Oregon adventure peak-bagging at its finest - enjoy!

Here's two more sites to whet your appetites: Wayne's (Oregon) site & Tim's site (...whose book probably got me interested in this stuff in the first place).

Another related object that might have some related info. is here.
For a different perspective...Spire Rock

As seen from Beulah ReservoirCastle Rock

Listing Of Formations And Routes

Oregon GraniteScared
Rawl s PredecessorBolts Everywhere
Please Don t Leave Draws On Projects!Bolts
Rawl 1-Piece BoltEven More Bolts

The evolving list below provides at-a-glance summary of formations and routes. Only those routes that reach the summit of a given formation are listed.

Note that I've also thrown in some non-tower/non-spire formations (examples include Wolf Rock, Pilot Rock, Acker Rock) based on the fact that most hold obscure lines on them that rarely get done (just like spires) and the fact that they DO have a summit. I suppose this could be called "Oregon Adventure Climbs" page but that sounds less dramatic.

Central Oregon

West FaceWest Face
Shirley at the belay atop P3...Northeast Face
Steins PillarSteins Pillar
Squaw Rock approching from...Squaw Rock
Rising Expectations (C1)Rising Expectations
Monkey FaceMonkey Face

Monkey Face (Smith)
Pioneer Route II 5.7 A0
West Face Variation II 5.8 A0
Monkey Space II 5.11b
West Face III 5.6 C2
Northwest Passage III 5.7 C2
East Face III 5.7 C2+

Smith Rock Group Spires (Smith)
West Smith Summit A0
Arrowpoint - Northwest Face 5.2
The Platform 5.1 R

Staender Ridge Spires (Smith)
Flattop - Lost Fox 5.8
Flattop - Lieback Flake 5.4
Bette's Needle - Juniper Snag 5.6 R
Bette's Needle - Limestone Chimney 5.3
Staender Summit - Northwest Corner 5.3
Independence Tower - North Side 5.5
The Mole - North Ramp Variation 5.0

The Marsupials Spires (Smith)
Kangaroo - North Ledges 5.6 R
Koala Rock - Round River 5.4 R
Brogan Spire - Cave Route 5.6
The Marsupial Traverse 5.8
Brogan Spire - Loose Hookers 5.6 A1+

Squaw Rock (Smith)
Spiral I 5.1 X

Victoria Spire (Smith)
Catherines Ridge 5.6 R

Steins Pillar
Northeast Face III 5.8 A2 or 5.11a

Western Oregon

barad durBarad-Dur
Turkey MonsterDod Route
North Rabbit EarCave Route
Turkey MonsterTurkey Monster
Old Man (center) and Old...Old Man
Aerial! Looking directly down...Rabbit Ears

Turkey Monster (Menagerie)
Dod Route III 5.11 or C2F

Rabbit Eears (Southern Cascades)
West Ear Summit Route 5.5

Old Man and Old Woman
Dilley's Delight(Old Man) II 5.9
Northwest Ridge(Old Woman) I 5.4 R

Rabbit Ears (Menagerie)
Standard Route (South Ear) III 5.8 R
The Cave Route (North Ear) II 5.10a

Rooster Rock (Menagerie)
North Face 5.4 R

Pilot Rock

Wolf Rock
Coligula 5.7
Southwest Gullies Class 2-3
Barad Dur III 5.9 A2 or 5.11

Acker Rock
Peregrine Traverse 5.7

Shepard Tower Of Metolius
Northeast Corner 5.2

Elephant Rock
Ugly Loose Grovelly Chimney 5.7

Spire Rock
Southeast Corner 5.5

Needle Rock
Northwest Corner 5.8

Castle Rock (SW Oregon)
Scramble Route low 5th class

Breitenbush Ears
tbd ??

Columbia River Gorge

2nd pitch climbing June 2003South Face
Pillars Of HerculesPillars Of Hercules
Phoca RockPhoca Rock
Phoca RockCigar Rock

Phoca Rock
Southeast Face 4th class

Rooster Rock
South Face I 5.4

Pillars Of Hercules
East Route I 5.4

St. Peters Dome
South Saddle Direct (?) III A3 (?)

Little Cougar Rock
South Ridge 5.5

Beacon Rock (...practically Oregon)
Southeast Face II 5.7

The Rabbit Ears (a.k.a. Sacajawea & Pappoose Rocks)
North Face/Gully (TR) II 5.4

Eastern Oregon

Spires
North face of summit blockCastle Rock

Castle Rock
The Route low 5th class

Oregon's Tower Triple Crown

My choice for Oregon's three biggest towers is below. There might be other reasonable candiates (Monkey Face, Twin Pillars, others?) here but these in my mind are the ones that stand out. The top two have free (5.11) routes to their summits (though we aided both) while St. Peters Dome is strictly a nail-up. Easiest summit line ratings given for each as well. Rank number reflects my opinion as to the relative difficulty of the three (1 being easiest). Thanks to Anya Jingle for allowing me to use her html code as starting point for this.

Difficulty Rank Tower Photo Of The Tower Easiest Summit Route Location
1.


 

Northeast Face (III 5.8 A2)
Ochoco Mountains in central Oregon.
2.

 

The Monster

 


 

Dod Route (III C2F)
Menagerie Wilderness in western Oregon.
3.

 


 

 

South Saddle Direct (III 5.6 A3 ?)

When In Doubt...

...call it Rabbit Ears!
Rabbit Ears (South is on...Rabbit Ears In Menagerie Wilderness

Pic of the Rabbit Ears...Rabbit Ears In The Columbia Gorge

Rabbit Ears view from the...Rabbit Ears By Crater Lake

Mountain Goat on Rabbit EarsRabbit Ears In The Strawberry Mountains


More Towers

Castle Rock (SW Oregon)Castle Rock
Needle RockNeedle Rock
Chicken Rock - just below...Chicken Rock
Steins Pillar from the Mill...Steins Pillar
Little St. Peters DomeLittle St. Peters Dome
Orygun Desert TowersCigar Rock

ShiprockShip Rock

North Ledges Traverse TopoKangaroo

Rooster Rock from the trail in.Rooster & Hen Rocks

Asterisk PassAsterisk

Old Man (center) and Old...Old Man

Pic of the Rabbit Ears...Rabbit Ears

Goat on Rabbit Earsmore Rabbit Ears

Shirley rapping down the...West Smith Summit

Rabbit Ears (South is on...Rabbit Ears

Castle Rock (SW Oregon)Castle Rock
Monkey Face from the...Monkey Face
Looking north
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