The first developed wall south of Sex Canyon (actually, it is the only wall on the south side of the canyon) and less than 10 minutes from the parking area, and with a pair of nice 5.8's, including one of the best 5.8 routes at Reimers, Landfill Wall, one would think, would always be crowded, but I have never seen it so. Perhaps this is because it always seems damp, maybe because there is shade most of the day and the big overhangs that characterize much of the wall block out much of the sunlight that does hit this north-facing wall.
Nevertheless, there are 13 routes on bolted limestone here. Landfill Wall is also close to Shortcake Wall
, and a somewhat brushy trail connects the two.
Routes have up to six bolts. I've only done two routes here, and both had chains, not sport anchors, so make sure you have enough draws for the bolts + 2.
Reimers Ranch is located off Hamilton Pool Road about 6 miles west of its intersection with Ranch Road 12. It is about 45 minutes west from downtown Austin.
Once through the entrance station, drive about 1.8 mi and turn left into a large parking area signed for a pavilion and for climbing access. A sign points the way to "Climbers Canyon." Hike the trail and then drop into the top of the "canyon" where a spring creates a stream that soon empties into the Pedernales River. This stream includes a waterfall and some deep pools that are great places to cool off after climbing on a hot day.
Hike by or through the stream until a trail becomes apparent. The trail through Sex Canyon (very slick in some spots) splits a number of times. You want the first split that takes you left across the creek (see picture).
Spur to Cross the Stream
Now look for the first spur to the left and take it. It leads to an easily seen slab and then to a big tufa that is the start of Jugfest. You're at the right end of the wall.
To Landfill Wall
Slab Before Landfill Wall
Names and grades come from Austin Climbing: Sport Routes & Deep Water Solos by John Hogge.
From left to right as you face the wall:
- Pika Peak, 5.10
- Dos Vatos, 5.10d
- Slopeamine, 5.11d
- Heathers, 5.11c
- Monkey Pajamas, 5.10a PG
- Tapeworm, 5.9+
- Little White Trash Boy, 5.10c
- Hanging Gardens, 5.12
- Sometimes I'm Dreamin', 5.11d
- Get Yer Fill, 5.12c
- J.P. Court, 5.12a
- Jugfest (aka No More Tears), 5.8-- I think I've done every Reimers 5.8 now, and this is one of the three coolest, I think, if for no other reason than the fact that it starts on a big tufa.
- Hidden Pockets, 5.8 R-- The R refers to the runout between Bolts 2 and 3, but the climbing is more like 5.6 there.
Hidden Pockets Start
Hidden Pockets Finish
The daily entry fee is currently $10. Annual passes are $100 and well worth it if you climb here a lot. I bought an annual pass in August and by October had come out more than 10 times. Plus, the annual pass is good for all Travis County parks. Unfortunately, the pass is a windshield decal, not a card. If you want a duplicate pass for a second vehicle, you get to pay $50 for it. Nice racket they have going there.
Opening and closing times vary by the season. Check the park website
Climbers in Central Texas are well acquainted with the biting ants all over the place. Watch where you stand and where you step.
This part of Texas is also home to all four types of venomous North American snakes-- copperheads, cottonmouths, rattlesnakes, and coral snakes. Again, watch out, especially for the coral snakes. They are shy and bites are very rare, but their venom is highly potent and can be fatal. Also, it is my understanding that antivenin for coral snakes is in very short supply and highly expensive due to the fact that bites are so rare.
When to Climb
All year. In the very hot summer, climb here in the early morning.
None inside the park.
About 7 miles east on Hamilton Pool Road is Rock Dog
, owned and operated by local climbers. I've never been there but have heard the owners are awesome climbers and awesome people. I also hear that the rich neighbors hate the place, so if you don't live locally, stay there and do your part to give the middle finger to the snobs.