Longbow Chimney 5.8, C1, 2 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Crooked Arrow Spire is a detached tower located at the NE corner of Parriott Mesa.  The better routes on Parriott Mesa are located on Voodoo wall located on the north face just around the corner from Crooked Arrow, i.e., Super Natural, an outstanding route.  A note from someone who bailed via the route log on MP.com: “If you loved Honeymoon Chimney on the Priest, the first pitch is for you.”  Well, I did not have near as much fun as I did on Honeymoon Chimney’s 1^st pitch OW (which I thought was outstanding), but yes, you will eat a little sand.

Longbow Chimney is the only route located on Crooked Arrow and climbs the chimney formed by the separation of Crooked Arrow from Parriott Mesa.  The first pitch is a fun and mellow 5.8 romp into the narrow chimney climbing a corner to the col below where the tower starts to really pull away from the mesa.  The 2^nd pitch climbs the blank and steep west face of the tower via C1 aid for most of the entire length of the pitch.  The C1 aid comes with two disclosures.  It is height dependent.  At 5’11”, many times I was stepping into the top two rungs of the one etrier I brought.  The 2^nd is related.  Most of the fixed hardware in 2023 was in suspect shape.  The majority of hangers were spinners making the height dependent clip that much more of a challenge.  If 5’9” or shorter, the aid will most certainly be more complex, but if taller, much easier.  You clip a 2011 installed bolt about every 5^th clip and there are over 30 clips.  The C1 vs A1 is because you need a few pieces of gear to reach the first bolt.  There are a few pitons left, but a few missing as well.  Small gear is needed for the start and finish.

Park at a formal parking lot just east of the turn off for Castle Valley.  In other words, you do not turn south onto Castle Valley Road, rather, continue on River Road for a short distance and make the next right into the fenced dirt parking lot.  I am old enough to have driven up the wash when climbing Sister Superior routes back in the day.  However, as of 2023, that is no longer allowed and access is officially blocked.  Regardless, the hike is relatively short compared to many towers in the area.  From the parking, drop into the wash and follow it south until even with Crooked Arrow on your right.  Ascend a climber’s trail past a huge boulder and continue on very loose ground traversing north below the east wall on Parriott Mesa to the south end base of the tower.  No more than an hour approach.  The climb is well shaded, the approach is in full sun.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 150’-5.8/ Climb the chossy chockstones on the left side of Crooked Arrow Spire (the crux of the pitch really).  After 20’ of eating sand, you land the chimney floor. Place a #3 up high to keep rope drag to a minimum and squeeze deep into the chimney and climb the very back of it via cracks and chockstones.  Stay to the inside vs getting sucked into tighter chambers that lead east.  This is actually well protected and decent climbing at the grade.  Land the chossy col between the tower and the mesa.  Sling a block or place medium gear for the belay.  The local guide mentions a bolted station here at the col, but that station is a rap station several meters into the 2^nd pitch. The guide discusses starting out free climbing the 2^nd pitch and that is correct, you can stem and climb a finger crack from the col to the rap station.  If you would rather start the aid pitch there it will be less comfortable for your belayer.

2^nd Pitch- 150’-C1/ Stem up between the mesa and tower placing good gear in a crack and land the mid rap chains.  Start aiding up pitons supplementing with offset wires or cams as you turn the north face of the tower to the west.  From there are many bolts leading to the top of the tower.  In 2023, most were still star drive mank with a spattering of modern bolts and hangers (put in around 2011).  I back cleaned from any ancient hardware directly below modern hardware so I did not need as many draws as clips (maybe used 20).  I brought one ladder and at 5’11” normally stood on the 2^nd rung to reach the next clip.  These are mostly spinners, so count on another inch for that issue.  I am going to guess that a 6’1” climber is the sweet spot on this pitch for quick ascent through C1.  The summit has rap chains and bolts on the very summit.  You can bring the 2^nd to the summit anchor (more comfortable) and then carefully scramble back down to the fat rap anchor. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Double 60m ropes get you down in two raps.

Essential Gear

Double 60m ropes.  Double to #3.  You can easily back clean below some of the 2011 bolts but I would still bring a minimum of 20 draws and/or slings.  A single etrier for the leader.  Some rope jugging equipment for the 2^nd.  Route gets good shade most all day.