With Carson. Super fun day, with a hint of fall in the air. Fun climbing on route, lengthy approach but not too terrible. The "glacier" has seen some better days. 12 hours car to car.
Hey Vitaliy, Just saw your comment - 10 years later, lol! Yeah, it did but I was ok after Pavel started leading. Beautiful peak!
Climbed right of the sandy chute, the rock is good and better than sliding in sand. The day was very cold and windy. A few people on top. Single day from Twin Lakes.
Left the Mono Village parking lot solo shortly before 5:00am on Friday, July 5. Heavy snow obscured Horse Creek much of the way and made for a few tense moments, even with micro-spikes and an ice axe.
It took me just over four hours to reach the base of the SE slope, but a full 2.5 hours to reach the top! Gorgeous views, but I didn't linger for more than ten minutes due to high winds.
The sandy chute shortcut off the top described by others was covered in snow, so getting down to the bottom wasn't much easier for me than getting up to the top. Huge suncups and lots of post-holing made the rest of my return to the trailhead a grind, though I was able to glissade for short stretches a few times.
In the end, it took me around 12.5 hours from start to finish, and was well worth the effort.
Thank you to Calipidder for the detailed write-up on her website! I also benefited from searching for recent pictures and videos of the route on Instagram, as I might not have brought an ice axe otherwise.
I first summited via the descent route second time was up a 5.6 face route with bad rock but easy climb.
Summit wit Brett Reed, E Couloir, free climbed easy 5th to the summit.
Our team of 4 split up at the bottom of the peak. Paul and I wanted to climb the east couloir and left skis below. The E couloir was icy from bottom to top. Our two buddies wanted to ski the W couloir that did not look icy but blown in with new snow from the latest storm. They triggered an avalanche at the very top and one was swept down the entire W couloir. We all walked away shaken but uninsured.
After an abortive attempt in January Carlo Alesandrini and I returned to do my first successful winter ascent. We drove to Twin Lakes and spend two days placing our high camp on the Dragtooth Glacier, where we dug a snowcave. the next day we ascended the steep couloir to the left of the Matterhorn Peak summit and ascended the rock and snow on the backside to the summit. We glissaded down the backside and traversed across to Polemonium Pass, which we glissaded down to return to our snow cave.
Clear as a bell. No wind. Beautiful early fall day with great views all around.
On a solo trip. Not a very inspiring route, but the summit views are something to behold.
Was on an epic 5 day loop from Tower to Matterhorn to Volunteer Peak and tagged this from Rock Island Pass to Burro Pass, saw it in mid afternoon, and climbed quickly. A great ascent from any side, then headed down Matterhorn canyon which goes on forever! Could Horsetail falls be as exciting? So many routes to choose.
Classic climb in a great location.
With Jim & Scott.
Returned with Chris & Marty in about 2003.
Great camping at the small lake below both times.
Much more snow/ice to deal with on the approach in 1991.
Chris's wolf dog followed us as best he could up the descent gully after breaking loose from the tree by the lake.
The "glacier" is mostly gone. Fresh rock fall over the remaining ice of the glacier was highly unstable. I set off a boulder the size of a refrigerator by merely touching it. Fortunately I was able to pivot out of the way before it launched itself down the boulder field. Better to climb this when it's below freezing.
Beautiful day for a very long hike! The average of three GPS measurements put the round trip distance at 17 miles. A lot of rock slides allow for some easy scrambles albeit challenging route finding as the trail is obscured. The route to the summit is easier from the pass if you follow the ridge line picking your way through white pine. Descending down the sandy face was an absolute blast!! Wear gators! Allow for a 12 hour day; more if you take a dip in the creek on the way back :)
Got to say that the route description is seriously lacking; the summit is probably 8 miles one direction, the summit block is also class three. Climbed with my buddy Collin, an epic slog/summit.
A long hike, made longer by the morning meander through the campground looking for the unmarked trailhead. Mostly reasonable trail/goattrack to Horse Creek Pass (aim high), then that looong slog up the sandy slope. 2 hours up, 5 minutes down on that stuff. Wheee! Loved the views from the summit- I remember doing a backpacking loop in N Yose several years ago and picking out the summit and deciding I'd climb it someday - and this was before my peak bagging days.
Pretty miserable sand slog up the SE face after climbing Whorl earlier in the day. Cool views though.
Had a killer time climbing the North Arete. We finished the last two pitches on the Arete proper. Amazing exposure and views there.
Does anyone know what the difficulty of this variation maybe? It felt burly, but I was carrying a pack with a camp for the Sawtooth Ridge Traverse. Super fun route. And definitely the line on the mountain.