Matterhorn Peak Climber's Log

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oliverkalt

oliverkalt - Apr 21, 2018 10:06 am Date Climbed: Apr 15, 2018

Risk assessments everywhere...  Sucess!

Our team of 4 split up at the bottom of the peak. Paul and I wanted to climb the east couloir and left skis below. The E couloir was icy from bottom to top. Our two buddies wanted to ski the W couloir that did not look icy but blown in with new snow from the latest storm. They triggered an avalanche at the very top and one was swept down the entire W couloir. We all walked away shaken but uninsured.

wdimpfl

wdimpfl - Dec 22, 2017 5:33 am Date Climbed: Mar 15, 1969

Winter Ascent  Sucess!

After an abortive attempt in January Carlo Alesandrini and I returned to do my first successful winter ascent. We drove to Twin Lakes and spend two days placing our high camp on the Dragtooth Glacier, where we dug a snowcave. the next day we ascended the steep couloir to the left of the Matterhorn Peak summit and ascended the rock and snow on the backside to the summit. We glissaded down the backside and traversed across to Polemonium Pass, which we glissaded down to return to our snow cave.

labgloves

labgloves - Aug 11, 2017 11:36 pm Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2017

East Coulier  Sucess!

East Coulier

BobD3

BobD3 - Oct 4, 2016 8:37 pm Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2016

Standard route  Sucess!

Clear as a bell. No wind. Beautiful early fall day with great views all around.

Romain

Romain - Jul 15, 2016 1:49 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2015

SE Slopes  Sucess!

On a solo trip. Not a very inspiring route, but the summit views are something to behold.

SchwartzOn

SchwartzOn - Feb 12, 2016 11:51 am Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2013

Make your own way  Sucess!

Was on an epic 5 day loop from Tower to Matterhorn to Volunteer Peak and tagged this from Rock Island Pass to Burro Pass, saw it in mid afternoon, and climbed quickly. A great ascent from any side, then headed down Matterhorn canyon which goes on forever! Could Horsetail falls be as exciting? So many routes to choose.

Fairweather

Fairweather - Nov 3, 2015 1:11 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 1991

North Arete X2  Sucess!

Classic climb in a great location.
With Jim & Scott.
Returned with Chris & Marty in about 2003.
Great camping at the small lake below both times.
Much more snow/ice to deal with on the approach in 1991.
Chris's wolf dog followed us as best he could up the descent gully after breaking loose from the tree by the lake.

jdmorehouse

jdmorehouse - Sep 15, 2015 9:24 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2015

East Couloir  Sucess!

The "glacier" is mostly gone. Fresh rock fall over the remaining ice of the glacier was highly unstable. I set off a boulder the size of a refrigerator by merely touching it. Fortunately I was able to pivot out of the way before it launched itself down the boulder field. Better to climb this when it's below freezing.

mesidjz

mesidjz - Jun 22, 2015 12:39 pm Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2015

Horse Creek TH, SE Slope, S Ridge  Sucess!

Beautiful day for a very long hike! The average of three GPS measurements put the round trip distance at 17 miles. A lot of rock slides allow for some easy scrambles albeit challenging route finding as the trail is obscured. The route to the summit is easier from the pass if you follow the ridge line picking your way through white pine. Descending down the sandy face was an absolute blast!! Wear gators! Allow for a 12 hour day; more if you take a dip in the creek on the way back :)

sierramtngoat

sierramtngoat - Oct 23, 2014 3:21 am Date Climbed: Oct 22, 2014

Horse Creek TH, SE Slope, S Ridge  Sucess!

Got to say that the route description is seriously lacking; the summit is probably 8 miles one direction, the summit block is also class three. Climbed with my buddy Collin, an epic slog/summit.

calipidder

calipidder - Aug 24, 2014 6:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2014

Sloggity slog slog  Sucess!

A long hike, made longer by the morning meander through the campground looking for the unmarked trailhead. Mostly reasonable trail/goattrack to Horse Creek Pass (aim high), then that looong slog up the sandy slope. 2 hours up, 5 minutes down on that stuff. Wheee! Loved the views from the summit- I remember doing a backpacking loop in N Yose several years ago and picking out the summit and deciding I'd climb it someday - and this was before my peak bagging days.

cab

cab - Aug 18, 2014 1:22 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2014

SE Face  Sucess!

Pretty miserable sand slog up the SE face after climbing Whorl earlier in the day. Cool views though.

hoglord

hoglord - Jul 29, 2014 12:24 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2014

Route Climbed: North Arete Direct  Sucess!

Had a killer time climbing the North Arete. We finished the last two pitches on the Arete proper. Amazing exposure and views there.

Does anyone know what the difficulty of this variation maybe? It felt burly, but I was carrying a pack with a camp for the Sawtooth Ridge Traverse. Super fun route. And definitely the line on the mountain.

colinr

colinr - Jul 25, 2014 5:20 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2014

Up Horse Creek from Mono Village  Sucess!

Second time up Matterhorn, but took the easiest way this time. Nice wildflower display this time up the creek! Hiked up fast and stuck to the brushy ridge from the pass area upward. Took the fast sandy scree down. Gotta try the Col sometime for variety.

braindancer

braindancer - Jul 7, 2014 11:20 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2014

Rematch fail

Came back for a rematch, thinking that now we know the route better and are in better shape. Made it to previous stopping point about 1.5 hours earlier. Advanced quite a bit but still ran out of time again.

Not sure about 5.5 miles BTW; we haven't made it even close to the summit and yet both our pedometers showed around 16 miles.

braindancer

braindancer - Jul 7, 2014 11:17 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2013

Timing/route-finding fail

We started too late (9am), assuming this will be fairly quick (5.5 miles one way). Nope. This is the most confusing route ever, so we spent so much time figuring our way out that it was quite clear that we're not making it (needed to drive home that night).

AdamJ

AdamJ - Apr 15, 2014 5:36 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2012

good times  Sucess!

second time up matterhorn peak. This time went up the couloir, had to use crampons/axe. Great glissade down. One of my all time favorites!

MarekB

MarekB - Mar 18, 2014 5:01 pm Date Climbed: Mar 16, 2014

Good climb  Sucess!

Climbed West and descended East Couloirs with friends on a clear, sunny March day. Still quite a bit of snow on the rock despite low precip this winter. Good conditions in the couloirs and no need for pro there but we kept crampons on and used running belay throughout the trough/ledges on the SW side of the mountain.

jbagley - Nov 14, 2013 7:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2012

CAG Guided Trip  Sucess!

This was a guided trip through CAG, and a first taste of mountaineering. Very little snow throughout the route.

Hohniker

Hohniker - Sep 25, 2013 6:30 pm

Windy  Sucess!

Climbed East Couloir in semi winter conditions with California Alpine Guides. 50-60mph gusts on top so didn't stay long. Gorgeous day out. I recommend the company.

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