Matterhorn Peak Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 186

YEM - Aug 4, 2023 9:45 am Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2023

SE Face  Sucess!

Climbed after Whorl Mountain. 2 hours up and 1 hour down from camp near the tarn. Super easy and one of the best scree descents you'll ever find.


McCannster - Sep 19, 2022 8:29 am Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2022

via North Arete  Sucess!

With Carson. Super fun day, with a hint of fall in the air. Fun climbing on route, lengthy approach but not too terrible. The "glacier" has seen some better days. 12 hours car to car.

Zzyzx - May 25, 2021 11:33 pm

Re: North Arete

Hey Vitaliy, Just saw your comment - 10 years later, lol! Yeah, it did but I was ok after Pavel started leading. Beautiful peak!

DanFeinberg - May 12, 2021 7:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2019

Matterhorn Peak  Sucess!



pezzotto - Oct 28, 2020 1:27 pm Date Climbed: Oct 24, 2020

Matterhorn in the wind  Sucess!

Climbed right of the sandy chute, the rock is good and better than sliding in sand. The day was very cold and windy. A few people on top. Single day from Twin Lakes.


Salty - Aug 25, 2019 2:32 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2019

Horse Creek TH, SE Slope, S Ridge   Sucess!

Left the Mono Village parking lot solo shortly before 5:00am on Friday, July 5. Heavy snow obscured Horse Creek much of the way and made for a few tense moments, even with micro-spikes and an ice axe.

It took me just over four hours to reach the base of the SE slope, but a full 2.5 hours to reach the top! Gorgeous views, but I didn't linger for more than ten minutes due to high winds.

The sandy chute shortcut off the top described by others was covered in snow, so getting down to the bottom wasn't much easier for me than getting up to the top. Huge suncups and lots of post-holing made the rest of my return to the trailhead a grind, though I was able to glissade for short stretches a few times.

In the end, it took me around 12.5 hours from start to finish, and was well worth the effort.

Thank you to Calipidder for the detailed write-up on her website! I also benefited from searching for recent pictures and videos of the route on Instagram, as I might not have brought an ice axe otherwise.


sardude - Apr 3, 2019 6:47 pm

Ineresting rock  Sucess!

I first summited via the descent route second time was up a 5.6 face route with bad rock but easy climb.


MattDaddy56 - Dec 7, 2018 12:17 pm Date Climbed: May 20, 2018

Matterhorn E Couloir  Sucess!

Summit wit Brett Reed, E Couloir, free climbed easy 5th to the summit.


oliverkalt - Apr 21, 2018 10:06 am Date Climbed: Apr 15, 2018

Risk assessments everywhere...  Sucess!

Our team of 4 split up at the bottom of the peak. Paul and I wanted to climb the east couloir and left skis below. The E couloir was icy from bottom to top. Our two buddies wanted to ski the W couloir that did not look icy but blown in with new snow from the latest storm. They triggered an avalanche at the very top and one was swept down the entire W couloir. We all walked away shaken but uninsured.


wdimpfl - Dec 22, 2017 5:33 am Date Climbed: Mar 15, 1969

Winter Ascent  Sucess!

After an abortive attempt in January Carlo Alesandrini and I returned to do my first successful winter ascent. We drove to Twin Lakes and spend two days placing our high camp on the Dragtooth Glacier, where we dug a snowcave. the next day we ascended the steep couloir to the left of the Matterhorn Peak summit and ascended the rock and snow on the backside to the summit. We glissaded down the backside and traversed across to Polemonium Pass, which we glissaded down to return to our snow cave.


labgloves - Aug 11, 2017 11:36 pm Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2017

East Coulier  Sucess!

East Coulier


BobD3 - Oct 4, 2016 8:37 pm Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2016

Standard route  Sucess!

Clear as a bell. No wind. Beautiful early fall day with great views all around.


Romain - Jul 15, 2016 1:49 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2015

SE Slopes  Sucess!

On a solo trip. Not a very inspiring route, but the summit views are something to behold. Trip report


SchwartzOn - Feb 12, 2016 11:51 am Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2013

Make your own way  Sucess!

Was on an epic 5 day loop from Tower to Matterhorn to Volunteer Peak and tagged this from Rock Island Pass to Burro Pass, saw it in mid afternoon, and climbed quickly. A great ascent from any side, then headed down Matterhorn canyon which goes on forever! Could Horsetail falls be as exciting? So many routes to choose.


Fairweather - Nov 3, 2015 1:11 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 1991

North Arete X2  Sucess!

Classic climb in a great location.
With Jim & Scott.
Returned with Chris & Marty in about 2003.
Great camping at the small lake below both times.
Much more snow/ice to deal with on the approach in 1991.
Chris's wolf dog followed us as best he could up the descent gully after breaking loose from the tree by the lake.


jdmorehouse - Sep 15, 2015 9:24 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2015

East Couloir  Sucess!

The "glacier" is mostly gone. Fresh rock fall over the remaining ice of the glacier was highly unstable. I set off a boulder the size of a refrigerator by merely touching it. Fortunately I was able to pivot out of the way before it launched itself down the boulder field. Better to climb this when it's below freezing.


mesidjz - Jun 22, 2015 12:39 pm Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2015

Horse Creek TH, SE Slope, S Ridge  Sucess!

Beautiful day for a very long hike! The average of three GPS measurements put the round trip distance at 17 miles. A lot of rock slides allow for some easy scrambles albeit challenging route finding as the trail is obscured. The route to the summit is easier from the pass if you follow the ridge line picking your way through white pine. Descending down the sandy face was an absolute blast!! Wear gators! Allow for a 12 hour day; more if you take a dip in the creek on the way back :)


sierramtngoat - Oct 23, 2014 3:21 am Date Climbed: Oct 22, 2014

Horse Creek TH, SE Slope, S Ridge  Sucess!

Got to say that the route description is seriously lacking; the summit is probably 8 miles one direction, the summit block is also class three. Climbed with my buddy Collin, an epic slog/summit.


calipidder - Aug 24, 2014 6:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2014

Sloggity slog slog  Sucess!

A long hike, made longer by the morning meander through the campground looking for the unmarked trailhead. Mostly reasonable trail/goattrack to Horse Creek Pass (aim high), then that looong slog up the sandy slope. 2 hours up, 5 minutes down on that stuff. Wheee! Loved the views from the summit- I remember doing a backpacking loop in N Yose several years ago and picking out the summit and deciding I'd climb it someday - and this was before my peak bagging days.


cab - Aug 18, 2014 1:22 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2014

SE Face  Sucess!

Pretty miserable sand slog up the SE face after climbing Whorl earlier in the day. Cool views though.

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