Middle Rock, 5.7-5.12

Overview/Approach

(above photo, Dow leading Cowboy Bob's Chicken Delight)

Middle Rock is parallel to the main formations in Tres Piedras.  It is the third one in line on approach, South Rock, Mosaic and then Middle Rock.  Therefore, it is south facing just like the other two but not as large as Mosaic, so quite a few less routes.  Cowboy Bob’s Chicken Head Delight, 5.10, seems to be a popular one, but in reality, is soft for the grade and not sustained.  Bats in the Belfry, 5.8, offers a fun hand crack to the summit, but had ravens firmly nesting in it during the spring of 2022. Bells in the Belfry, 5.10c, offers a stout, slightly overhanging, finish on great rock.  Albuquerque Route, 5.8+, is another popular one, but its crux and climbing at the grade are short lived.  All in all, Middle Rock did not offer as good a selection of climbs as South Rock, Mosaic, West Rock or Sundeck.  However, its climbs are not hard to reach from any of the other objectives.  Most routes on Middle Rock have their own rap anchors, but like Mosaic, no established rap from the summit.  The walk off to the east is benign, to the west requires a short amount of downclimbing.

From the trail head, circumvent South Rock and Mosaic to the west.  Head east in front of West Rock in a wash and in a minute, you are standing below Middle Rocks broad south face. 

Route Descriptons Listed West to East on the South Face

Cowboy Bob’s Chicken Head Delight- 100’-5.10/ Jackson’s guide has this route starting off of the west buttress of Middle Rock by scrambling half way up the buttress and roping up just south of a hole in the rock on the upper south face.  The route traverses east and up via a finger crack below a juggy face and then up the jugs to the summit.  This is the softest graded route in Tres Piedras and MP.com offered no more explanation than Jacksons guide.  Despite receiving praise on MP.com, there is not much to this route.  It starts out easy, requires one extremely positive and steep chicken head pull over the crack and then eases way off.  It is the only route in Tres Piedras that I felt was way off regarding grade.  I would call it 5.8.  MP.com discusses climbing from the ground via the low angled west end of the south face to allow for a longer pitch but that variation adds no more difficulty to the climb.  Cowboy does cross Fingerfest which is a full-on trad lead at its grade (5.10d/5.11a).  I did not find the need to sling any chickenheads as mentioned in MP.com chatter, rather placed several small to medium pieces and once atop the short chickenhead face, just 5^th classed it to the summit.  MP.com mentioned that “you might could go straight down west from the top…but we hiked east”.  The only true walk off of Middle Rock is east.  We soloed down the west buttress, but that did involve some 5.8 downclimbing.  Dow

Fingerfest- 5.11a/

Bats in the Belfry- 5.8/ (May, 2022, the crack exhibited no bats but did have an active raven’s nest in the crack midway up)

Cowgirl Pump- 5.11aR/

Mary Poppins in the Belfry- 5.7/

Bells in the Belfry- 100’-5.10c/ Excellent steep, slightly overhanging, 30’ of climbing on the upper portion of this route (the varnished rock).  This is a fully bolted and relatively new addition (modern hardware) not published in Jackson’s guide.  This is the 3^rd line with bolts to the right of the obvious crack climb named Bats in the Belfry.  It runs to its own fixed rap just to the right of Bats fixed rap.  The upper portion is slightly overhung making for a fun climb at the grade.  The holds are relatively positive, just pumpy.  Ravens were nesting on the shallow ledge and crack to the left in May.  If active, they will make an argument that you stay away.  Dow

Albuquerque Route- 70-5.8+/ Jackson’s guide has this route at 70’ which is spot on, whilst MP.com has added a mysterious 20’ to it.  The majority of this mixed route is below grade, but the crux is interesting.  Fourth route with bolts on it to the right of Bats in the Belfry.  Easy to make out, has two bolts, then a short and shallow right facing, quartz filled, corner to place a piece in and then a bolted bulge (crux).  The bulge is the crux.  Easier to go left or right but I believe the intent is to mantle straight up through the bolt.  Fun movement for a second before the angle backs way off to a fixed rap.  #.5 protects between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, the only pro I placed.  Negative discussion on MP.com about the bolting job, but everything looked good to me in 2022.  Dow

East of ABQ- 75’-5.9+/ Not in Jackson’s guide, but on MP.com.  The + is not warranted.  In my opinion, it was a chill 5.9 route with no move more challenging than Albuquerque’s crux.  This is the next bolted route to the right of the Albuquerque route which shares the same anchor.  The starting moves are the crux, fully bolted.  Dow

Dragon’s Lair- 5.11+/

Grandma’s Cancer- 5.12-/

Raging Chicken- 5.11+/