West Rock, 5.7-5.11

Overview/Approach

West Rock is the smallest of the main climbing features located at Tres Piedras.  As of 2022, only 9 routes were published on it.  That being said, it is passed on your way to Middle Rock or Sundeck and allows you to easily add a route or two to those objectives.  Two decent moderates are Alien, 5.9+, and How Ed’s Mind was Lost, 5.10.  Alien is considered by many to be the best pure trad moderate at Tres Piedras.  It offers a crack from start to finish with an exciting crux on stellar rock.  It did have a falcon nesting nearby in April, 2022.  How Ed’s Mind was Lost is also a pure trad route, however the few ticks on MP.com suggest many choose to clip at least one if not more of Mad Bolter’s bolts.  I found the route protected well with gear where it was steep.  In any regard, both of those routes share the same fixed rap (needs modernizing as of 2022).

From the trailhead, hike along the old road to a cabin.  Head north and in short order you can gain a wash heading for Middle Rock.  West Rock’s south face is immediately on your left where most of the routes are located.  Circumvent the south face to the east face where you find the obvious crack to chains that is Alien. 

Route Descriptions, Listed East Face to South Face,  Right to Left 

Growth Spurt- 5.11-/

Alien- 60’-5.9+/ By Tres Piedras standards, a great trad lead. MP.com exclaims “has one of the finest 5.9 cruxes anywhere!”.  Most routes on these formations require a mix of bolts and trad.  Alien takes on a crack from bottom to top.  An obvious crack that starts on the southeast prow of the formation just as a gully forms to the north. Alien is on a pillar like formation between walls. The start might be a bit awkward for the budding 5.9 leader, but protects well.  The middle is a bit fast and below grade, but the slight overhang above offers amazing moves at the grade.  Stem up and eventually mantle (crux) up to the chains.  Single to #2 plus wires or offsets.  Falcons made a nest just north in 2022. MP.com mentions sketchy blocks in the crack, of which I found none.  I predict that posting was made by a less experienced granite climber.  Dow

Mad Bolter- 5.11a/

How Ed’s Mind was Lost- 80’-5.10/ Most contributions on MP.com as of 2022 were confused by where this route goes.  However, I thought the Jackson guide was spot on.  This route is run out and I think that is more the issue, with leaders wanting to start clipping the Mad Bolter.  I clipped zero bolts and thought the route flowed well and had an interesting move at the grade.  When it is run out, the climbing is less than grade.  I only placed two points of pro, a solid piece in the initial crack and a bomber #.2 once you traverse right across the Mad Bolter.  The initial right leaning crack peters out, the crux of the route is making a high step slab move above this crack to reach fingers.  Then another slab move at the grade to start the traverse right and up crossing the Mad Bolter to reach intermittent cracks that take small gear.  Follow easier ground straight up and trend back left to the shared fixed rap which needs retrofitting as of 2022.  Start behind a tree in a right leaning hand crack on the south face of West Rock.  Mad Bolter is a bolted line that extends to a thin crack straight up to the right.  A single rack of small pieces.  Dow

Ground Up- 5.10/

New Rage- 5.9+/

Geez Louise- 5.8/

I was Groot- 5.8-/

I am Groot- 5.7+/