Climbed the Tacul as an acclimitisation sortie before attempting Mont Blanc. A bit of a slog up the face but the Bergshrund made life quite interesting!
On reaching the summit the wind was fierce and cold but the views were fantastic. My first 4000er!
Climbed the route in reasonable conditions, one pitch at 60 degrees, didn't summit though only scrambling left to summit.
After summit we spent 48 hours in storm at Col Maudit
and could not attemp the Mont Blanc cause gale force winds.
Climbed Tacul the day before summiting mont blanc. Perfect weather. Acclimatizacion for next day.
This was my first climb (with Dan Matheson) of the summer season 1976 after a couple days warming up on the Bossons Glacier.
No chance to reach mount maudit,too late
dal rifugio Torino
An excellent mixed climb up the LHS of the North Face Triangle. We did not summit as we were knackered from a long day on the Midi-Plan in a whiteout the previous day. For all the British users on here, this route would be easy grade 3 in Scotland with good belays
is out of condition due to the small amounts of snow last winter and the following heatwave as the snow bridge has colasped we took the line to the left around the crevasses and up the serac. this 5m pitch on the serac is fine in the eary morning but after a day of sun becomes very unpleasant.
we had a good pace, and it was a very nice climb, very varied, but since snow conditions this year are awfull, we turned back after a partie dropped into the crevasse which we had just crossed three seconds ago. we didnt feel like going for the summit anymore...
but for the rest, I think it should be a nice climb!
We reach the summit via the normal route. The weather was sunny and the view of the Alpes magnificent. We needed two hours and forty minutes for the ascent and two and a half for the descent. Easy ascent without any difficulties.
Chere Couloir -- March 22, 2003 -- Climbed the Chere Couloir in 5 pitches with Juan Valderrama, then continued over mixed ground and one more ice pitch to reach the top of the north face triangle. We then followed the north ridge (avoiding some crevasses and staying well back from the cornice) to reach the summit rocks. The descent by the NW slope was quite hairy, with a rappel over the bergschrund and some very steep downclimbing at the bottom of the route.
Hidden Couloir (Cecchinel-Jager variant with direct finish) -- February 4, 2007 -- With Tracy and Magnus, simul-soloed the first 200m of the Jager Couloir, then moved right to the Hidden Couloir and simul-soloed to reach the direct finish. Tracy led the crux pitch of 90 degree ice (grade 5) in a chimney followed by hard mixed ground to reach the north ridge. We then followed the north ridge until we could make a descending traverse above the seracs to reach the normal route on the NW slope. The descent was a bit treacherous with areas of wind slab and a steep section above the lower bergschrund. After completing the descent, we returned to the Aiguille du Midi cable-car station and bivied in the restrooms.
Contamine-Grisolle -- June 26, 2013 -- Climbed with Oyvind from Norway and realized that I'm quite out of shape at the moment. Interesting climbing but a bit crowded. We soloed the lower part of the route to the first ice runnel and then simul-climbed the rest. The descent down the normal route was in better condition than on prior trips.
the Chere looks fine, but the second part of the north face triangle requires good alpine scrambing skills and the ability of moving together. We continued via the north ridge to the summit. The ridge is very creavassed now and the huge cornise is scaring. The descent via the normal route requires one rappel on a rimaye and downclimb 2 sections of 80 degrees snow, one of 15 meters and other of 50 meters. The normal rourte is now very exposed ro seracs and has many creavasses.
A nice day, one big crevass on the way up. No other problems(The guy in cosmique hut sad it was 2 big crevasses but we only found one)
Few days after running Paris marathon... Did not summit but enjoyed the snow and total solitude on the glacier. Will come back someday.
a wonderful quiet climb (a rareity I know!) from an early morning bivvi on the Valee Blanche. Had the summit to ourselves and watched dawn break over Italy - a wonderfully straightforward climb.
Only on the descent did we pass the crowds wh had spewed out of the Midi telepherique that morning. Recommended for acclimatisation and its simplicity.
Unfortunately we had to retreat because of bad weather. Goulotte de Cheré is alsmost all the time in condition. Will try it again in march 2003
www.iceclimbing.nl -> links
My first ever alpine route (and first ever time in crampons), We went for it cos the weather was turning very soon so had to do it or not anything. Alot steeper than 40 degrees in places that year, The only downside is the number of people at the summit.
Its a350m route on the left of the Contamine-Grisolle with a short 65-70 degrees pitch. At the top of the Triangle, we followed the normal route to the summit.
Mario and I climbed Mt. Tacul the day before climbing Mt. Blanc. It was an easy climb on a beutiful day.