4th summit for me on Rainier. Three up the DC and 1 trip up Ingraham Direct. I climbed with friends and 2 of our 3 teams reached the summit. Fierce winds and cold temperatures made several team mates hypothermic and their rope needed to turn back at the top of the DC. Favorite route up so far has been ID, and I definitely don't recommend the DC when its melted out. :/
Summited DC route with IMG Saturday morning around 0530 after a MN start. Views and sunrise from the top were spectacular. Weather was ok except it was windy, cold and not pleasant above the cleaver. Challenging but rewarding. Highly recommend IMG (International Mountain Guides) for anyone considering the climb.
Climbed back in 2014. Had to turn around above the clever because of altitude. Weather was PERFECT though
This was my 6th climb of Rainier and 3rd Summit. Have done Emmons route 5 times and DC once. Failures were taking people down (two times) and bad weather. This last climb in 2022 was great but we had no wind so we nearly roasted at camp. Had to improvise a new route on this trip which was fun and rewarding. I really enjoy this big little mountain!
Climbed with RMI guides on their 5-day itinerary (3 days on the mountain). Used the bunkhouse at Muir. Of a total of 18 climbers 13 made the top. Started to the summit at 10 PM on the 24th reaching the summit at 4 AM on the 25th, starting back down before sunset in an effort to avoid soft snow/ice conditions on the Cleaver during descent.
Summited Rainier Via Paradise Glacier/Disappointment Cleaver route during 6 day glacier skills seminar put on by IMG. Excellent course and beautiful mountain. Clearly a lifetime goal.
My 16 year wait ended with a brilliant climb up the iconic Emmons Glacier with my good friend David and the senior leadership of The Mountaineers organization.
These guys are hardcore, barely any rest, we were on top before 8 am and back at camp by 2 pm. The only obvious objective hazard was one puny snowbridge crossing a nail biting crevasse hundreds of feet deep at the high end of "The Corridor". Tom, Vik, if you are out there, you guys are Pros!
sierramtngoat - Jun 16, 2006 8:06 am Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2001
Straight up, I will never again climb with RMI. I'm not sure what is more stupid, sending an unscreened team of newbies up a scree pile in crampons, or doubling the pace at 13,000 ft. to make up for lost time. Needless to say, no one on my rope summitted, but I did get the satisfaction of seeing our "leader" fall on his face down-climbing the scree I questioned him on going up. What a bone head operation. I would have easily summitted had he not changed the pace after everyone else had dropped off; in hind-sight, I think he did it on purpose so we wouldn't be just two on a rope.
No wind, amazing weather, 9 hours from Muir, Ingraham Direct to summit and back. Hell of a workout, it kicked my butt. Unguided with Dr. Freeman
Wanted to see if we could get this one in one day. Started at Paradise (5,400') at midnight, and summitted at 9am. We got to Camp Muir at 4:00am, and had a bit of a slog up the final mile, that was so steep!! But the groups ahead of us, that started at Muir, packed the trail down well for us, and the conditions of the Disappointment Cleaver route were absolutely perfect. There were only 2 spots where crevasses has started to open up, but were easily stepped across. I brought ice ax, crampons, and rope, but didn't use any of those items to the summit, as conditions were just perfect. I know I should have roped up, for precautionary purposes, but I've never been one to want to rely on gear, for fear that the gear will malfunction, and leave me stranded. So I like to do things by my own ability and power. I didn't even put crampons on for the descent. The snow was soft enough that I could punch footsteps into the snow with each step, and I used the ice ax to steady myself. We made it back to Paradise at 3:15pm, making for an incredible day. Definitely want to do the Wonderland Trail someday and circle this absolutely humbling and breathtaking mountain.
Independent group on the DC, all 5 summited. Felt really good to get this one.
Must do by anyone interested. We went with RMI via Camp Muir.
Due to Covid-19, many plans were canceled opening up a spot for my son and me to climb on an Alpine Ascents expedition. The guides were extremely helpful and encouraging which made our trip very enjoyable and ultimately successful. A snow bridge collapsed the day before our summit bid causing two other parties to turn around at 12,800 ft. So two of the guides spent the whole day creating a new route around the crevasse and placing protection.
Our group was friendly and motivated. 7 of the 8 summitted despite strong winds and tough conditions. The climb was definitely a challenge mentally and physically, but our preparation was just enough to make it safely. Glossaries down the snow field was a lot of fun. High Point #14 for me.
Paradise (11th) -> Low Camp (12th) -> High Camp (13th) -> Summit at 5:40 AM on the 14th and back down to Paradise by 3 PM.
White River, Glacier Basin, Inter Glacier, Camp Curtis, Summit sunrise at 7:10 AM. Climbed with Rusty, Eric, Daniel, and Vlad.
First ascent from the north to Steamboat Prow, camped overnite, then over the top and down the Muir side in 2 days. Watched the smoldering ash clouds rolling out of Mt St Helens. Since then have been to the summit several more times. On one trip skied from just below the Emmons Glacier upper bergschrund. Always a great hike.
There's something super special about Mt Rainier. Life Changing
2nd attempt - SUCCESS!
Crazy to think a Bostonian went to Seattle twice in a span of a few weeks, but that's determination for you.
Day 1 - climb to Camp Muir... left Paradise at 930AM, got there at 230PM
Day 2 - left Camp Muir at 1230 PM, summit at 7AM!!! then back to Paradise at 330PM.
One of the hardest state highpoints to reach, but this time around was a success! Crazy to think I only have 3 to go.
1st attempt... non successful :( Got chased off due to heavy winds and eventual snowstorm at 13,100 feet.
But, it was a great trip nonetheless... gave me more experience, for what would come in a few weeks...