Good conditions and not too many RMI trains to pass. Passed at 14,000 ft. by a North Face R&D team of two Brazilian brothers literally running up the glacier in trail shoes to tag the summit for the second time in as many days. Mutants.
The mountain in 1985 was in 100 year drought and blue with ice. Andy Fried, Robert Somoano and I, climbed the Libery Ridge in the kind of conditions, you would expect to see in September. Blue ice was everywhere, something the three of us from Southern California just couldn't get enough of. We spend three days on the route, mostly because we really had to ice climb the route, it was pretty technical. I made a note to myself after we came down, not to ever wonder why so many climbers from the Northwest US had so much success in the High Mountains. With "training" ground like this, no wonder. This was one beautiful big mountain climb, a line I will never forget.
Stayed at Muir after a long HOT day on the Muir Snowfeild. Left around midnight and proceeded over DIssapointment Cleaver to witness several teams backed up in the Igram Flats area. As we rested on top of the cleaver we watched the sun rise over the Cascades and watching the string of lights still backed up in the Flats. After watching all the teams backed up in the Ingram Flats area and listening to constant rockfall coming from the frock face to the south of the route I descided I would never ascend through that area.
After two days at Camp Muir, just bumming around and enjoying the weather we departed around midnight to the light of the full moon. The three of us reached the plateau and Ingraham flats within an hour from Camp Muir. We passed three other teams on the cleaver with minimal rock fall from above. some slmall ice falls on the Danger Traverse below the cleaver. By 1:30 we had gained the cleaver above 11,000 ft. Great weather and clear skies with minimal wind up to about 14,000 ft. reached the crater by 5:30, beautiful sunrise and wonderful decent. I experienced some light-headedness as a result of my frozen camel back hose and thus, dehydration. overall, a beautiful climb.
Had we stayed at Ingram Flats for another hour, we would have witnessed the avalanche that swept two parties off the cleaver., killing one that day. Always climb early!
Pulled unroped woman out of crevasse on Inter Glacier (most wrongly assume this snowfield has no crevasses). Camped at Camp Schurman on rocks (pays to arrive Thurs night). 2 of 3 in party summited (myself and Janna Martin).
Beautiful day, just a bit warm. Took the DC route, and it was getting tough to go that way due to the melted out conditions.
We were going to do the Kautz, but conditions were bad, so we went DC. Had to stay at Muir for a couple of days to avoid bad weather, high winds. The 4th was a perfect climb day, hit the top at about 9am. My first REAL mountain!
At age twelve, I felt very small compard to the maountain, and the stupid jokes about my size made by my partners didn't help, but I was still able to summit, when many of them couldn't. How do you like me now, Guys?
Colin C., Krister S., Tom H. & Joe L. Summited on Tues under perfect conditions. Minimal wind and no precip. Freezing alt. was approx 14,000 ft. Icefall was epic bellow ice cliff.
Summited for the 4th time August 17th 98 on my 25th birthday, summited again August 18th 2002 the day after my 29th. Had a great 3 day climb up the Emmons.
See link below for pictures and trip report.
Arrived at Muir on Friday to a great day with blue skies. Rested on Saturday and waited for our 4th member to bring the rope. Left Sunday morning at 1230 and arrived at the summit at 7am. The cleaver was hell, and once above the cleaver it is just plain simple, no navigation and tons of switchbacks, probably because of the time of year and such, but it was still fun to share the summit with my wife alison. Got lost on the cleaver on the way down since there are so many wands marking various routes. Back at Muir at 12 noon and to the car at 345pm. Long summit day for sure.
Reached Schurman Camp on the 28th and was greeted by blue skies and high winds. We planned on
making our summit bid that evening but decided against it due to the increasing high winds. Next year for sure!!!
Left Emmons FLats at 11pm, due to the high freezing level of 14k feet. Was not my call, but I would have left at 1am or so. With a slower group, my rope team froze in the caboose, but it was okay. Made it to the top at 615am. Hung out on the summit for abit until the clouds moved and we headed down. I was sick with AMS from 13K up, and did not feel better till after we packed up on summit day and retreated down the Interglacier. Ran out of there as fast as I could, it is always longer on the way out.
Summitted via the Emmons with my dad, Steve Jobe, Chad Sageser and his girlfriend. This was a second attempt after being blown off the mountain by weather the previus June. August is definitely the time to climb weather wise. This late in the season, the route is pretty tracked up making route finding straightforward. Number of crevasses and fallen snow bridges made route circuitous. Took 8 hours from Schurman to summit.
An awesome mountain. Unusually warm weather and very high winds. I climbed with just one other person and would have had more confidence with a more experienced team. His summit feaver was making me a little leery. I will be climbing Rainier again late this season or early next, with the cooler temperatures and more snow.
Our group of 3 left Emmons Flats (9800 ft) at 1:15 am and we reached the top of Columbia Crest at 7:30 am. In general, conditions were good, except for the intermittent blasts of intense wind and the warmish temps. We opted for traversing from the Emmons route towards the Disappointment Cleaver route which joined the DC route near 13,500 ft or so. The winds out of the west intensified throughout the day and turned around many parties. Between 11,000 and 12,500 ft, the whipping clouds soaked us and higher up we became thoroughly coated in ice. Glasses and goggles iced up so badly that they were worthless, even with frequent wipes. The winds on the crater rim were incredible, less so across the crater itself and negligible on the lee side of the rim. We reached our tent at 10:45 am after being blasted every few minutes or so by wind (up to 50-60? mph requiring us to stop and brace ourselves) and ice pellets, which filled in the track and quickly turned into slush. Each one of us punched through at least up to the ankle, inspite of our best intentions. In many places the boot track is not the safest or best line, particularly with the intense melting out of snow bridges and opening up of crevasses.
Climbed with David Coughlin & Bob Walsh.
Excellent Weather, a few weak snow bridges, nice views of Adams and Hood, like an oven coming down
Awesome weather - clear skies 80-mile visibility. Start from Paradise, camp at Ingraham Flats. Windy night with loud rockfall, 12:30 am departure for summit. Cleaver very sketchy due to melt, so Ingraham direct was route of choice of guide services, we followed them. Glacial ice/snow of dubious quality due to unseasonably warm weather. Large, scary, overhanging seracs, and two crevasse crossings on guide-service ladders. Campers above Cleaver had been buffeted by winds overnight. Haggered-looking climbers here. Ingraham Glacier berschrund traverse only major objective danger. 12-inch wide footledge, 90+ foot icewall, 60+ foot traverse, 500+ foot drop into serac field down 80-degree snow slope. Scary and unnerving, but exciting, too. Grueling, never-ending, 30-degree sloping switchbacks lead to summit, 10:00 am. No walk to Western crater rim to sign guestbook. Departed summit roughly 15 minutes after arrival. Long, very tedious, trek to high camp. Tent blown free of glacier and into crevasse (no extraction). On to Camp Muir and thence back to Paradise. Incredible work-out, absolute exhaustion and euphoria. An incredible adventure. Bring snow flukes for your tent!