Descended via DC, couldn't find the other way in white out...
Would never do it again though.
Went up Emmons glacier. Mostly selected our own path below bergschrund (~13,200 ft). Above this, a path was beaten in and heaviley wanded to summit, which allowed us to make it in whiteout conditions. Too bad I missed the views, ~30 m visibility.
Finally kicked her in the nards! Third times a charm. High winds and low visibilty on the summit day, but went off without a hitch. Linked up an alternate variation below the seracs on emmons and up the winthrop ridge then connected back up with the upper emmons below the bergschrund.
Made a quick hike into Glacier Basin on 6/30, then a strenuous 9-hour day under perfect blue skies to the bivy site at Thumb Rock on 7/1. Summit day on 7/2 began clear but we became enveloped in clouds on the upper ridge, and navigated to the summit in near-zero visibility conditions by map/GPS. As Brian said, this is an incredible route which fully lives up to its classic reputation.
Incredible route; fully deserving of its classic reputation. Climbed with Joe Bullough June 30th to July 2nd. The lower portion of the route, up to Thumb Rock, is suffering from the summer's heat and some snow bridges are near failure, but the upper route is in fine shape and the climbing excellent. We topped out in whiteout conditions and had to navigate the summit and the descent by map and GPS.
great climb. no views on the summit, white out conditions. Great!
Two day ascent of the DC. Beautiful weather.
Summited with a great group of climbing buddies. Great weather and breathtaking scenery. Some slow groups caused a bottleneck at the cleaver because each person was clipping into a fixed line. We wasted an hour waiting behind them, so when they rested at the top of the cleaver we were able to get past them. Other than that frustration, the climb was tons of fun. My first time in glacier terrain. I loved it. I plan on returning to Rainier often to try other routes.
kick ass cimb! man what a route, long sustained FUN climbing. weather was clear, sort of warm which meant some serious rock fall (mostly down low). the upper ridge was in great Alpine Ice shape and seemed to just keep going on forever. super classic! calve burner!
Climbed Rainier via the easier Emmons Glacier, but it is a serious haul with 10600' of vertical! Weather was perfect other than high winds up high. Crevasse danger was minimal early in the season. It took us 7.5 hrs to reach the crater rim from Schurman, a serious calf burner!
There are some mighty big seracs on this mountain:)
Very nice snow conditions; weather was flawless as well [aside from high winds near the summit]. Someone just in front of us fell about 20 ft into a crevasse while we were descending Ingraham. Plunged to the tune of no serious injuries fortunately, as his fall was arrested by his veteran-climber brother, and rescue was facilitated by several groups of canadians.
Climbed it in two days, no guide. Fun route but too much traffic. Will pick less travelled route on next trip. Awesome scenery.
I went on the 5 day RMI camp Muir seminar. It was great fun and we had some really great guides. It took are group a just under 11 hours roundtrip from camp Muir to reach columbia crest
(4,392M) summit. This was a great trip.
Straight up, I will never again climb with RMI. I'm not sure what is more stupid, sending an unscreened team of newbies up a scree pile in crampons, or doubling the pace at 13,000 ft. to make up for lost time. Needless to say, no one on my rope summitted, but I did get the satisfaction of seeing our "leader" fall on his face down-climbing the scree I questioned him on going up. What a bone head operation. I would have easily summitted had he not changed the pace after everyone else had dropped off; in hind-sight, I think he did it on purpose so we wouldn't be just two on a rope.
See Michael's comments below.
It could be a difficult climb, but we were blessed with great perfect conditions and fun people. Great climb.
On Memorial Day I set off with Scott and Chris to tackle LR. We spent the first night on Curtis Ridge and encountered heavy snow conditions before getting to Thumb Rock around 10k on LR by the second night. We made it to 13k the next day before a storm forced us to bivy. We had two more days of bad weather, including about 5 feet of fresh snow, and two more high bivies, the last of which was about 200 below the Liberty Cap summit, although we couldn't see this in the storm. Winds gusting to around 100 mph the last night almost wrecked the tent and forced us out in the gale to fix anchors a couple times. Summit day was beautiful but Scott got frostbite on all his fingers and three toes.
I have been on 7 climbs of Mt. Rainier with 3 succesful summits all via the Dissapointment Cleaver. I have made 2 winter attempts,notably a Jan.1 2000 attempt that was turned away due to high avalanche conditions. I have been unsuccesful on the Kautz and The Gib Ledges. I have also been up to St. Elmos Pass
but turned around due to bad weather.
Weather forced us to bed down at Camp Muir rather than contining on to Igraham Flats Friday night. Snow threatened to shut us down, but by 1am the weather was clear, and we were on the summit by 8am. The sound of a collapsing serac far below was the highlight of the descent.
Our group's speed was rather slow (still faster that the guided groups we got entagled within), so I had enough energy to sprint up the final slope to the summit after crossing the crater. That makes this the 2nd 14er where I've sprinted to the summit :-D
Now I've got to come back and do Liberty Ridge!
Mark, one way to speed up the rope would have been not to use a leash on your ice ax, as everyone had to stop everytime we hit a switchback and you had to change hands. Even on Liberty Ridge I rarely used the leashes on my ice tools, except when leading across snow bridges when a fall was a real possibility.