I climbed this with the University of Idaho Outdoor Program when I was in grad school. This was a huge climb. It was my first 14,000 footer, my first glacier climb and my first 2 day climb. This was a long slog and we were all pretty tired by the time we summited. I lost 2 water bottles along the way and was pretty dehyrated by the time we made it back down to Camp Muir. It sure is a fun descent from Camp Muir, we were able to glissade pretty much all the way down. At that point in my life this had been my hardest physical experience and it will always be a trip well worth remembering.
Excellent climb. Lots of Snow. Perfect Weather
Two friends and myself made our way to the cold and windy summit around 9:00 am. The view was great from the top!!! Took the DC route.
We did this as a three-day climb. Long slog to Camp Muir. First night was pleasant. Next morning up at 1:00am and climbing by 2:30am Our seven person group broke up in a three person team A and a four person team B. Crevasses opening up. Narrow snow bridges. We encountered wind at 12,500 and it got worse as we climbed closer to the summit. Maybe 55-65 mph sustained winds at the summit. Got back to camp around 4-5pm tired and whooped! We decided to stay the night and get a good nights rest. I hit the goose down by 7:00pm, just about the time the wind really started to pick up. Between 7pm and 4am the next morning the wind was hitting gusts up to 70+ mph. One persons tent did not survive, others barely... The morning was clear above and cloud covered below. The hike down from camp was quick with a few glissade shots.
After losing our third team member due to altitude sickness the first day out at 8,000 ft, Ian and I succesfully reached the true summit of Rainier via the DC on a beautiful, sunny Friday morning. We descended to Camp Muir in warm conditions with slushy snow. Ian was severely dehydrated and suffering from altitude sickness, but we were able to descend safely. Ian was not feeling well enough to descend all the way to Paradise on Friday afternoon, so we stayed at Muir that night. Unfortunately, conditions deteriorated overnight and we awoke 40 mph howling winds and blowing snow. We pushed through the wind and pelting snow Saturday morning to reach the car in the parking lot. (My last trip stopped at the crater rim due to white-out conditions, 70+ mph winds, and an exhausted teammate.)
DC, Ingraham Direct (12.5 hour round trip), and Emmons.
Had crystal clear weather our first night at Camp Muir, so went for it. Left at midnight and made the summit by 7:00 am. Weather rolled in on our descent from Camp Muir that afternoon. This was my second attempt after being socked in at Camp Muir for all 4 days of our trip the year before.
Ran into bad weather and had to abort climb. The rangers said the storm would stick around for two days, so everyone in my group decided to bail. The hike to Muir was brutal.
The weather was beautiful and the snow conditions were great... Crossing numerous crevasses along Ingraham Glacier Direct wasn't always easy, but reaching the summit was well worth all of the challenges of the hike.
Unbelievable weather for four days straight. Definitely full days, but well worth it. Great learning experience for me. Highly recommended.
Spectacular weather all 4 days we're up there. Climbed with Dave German and Brad Mastros. Took 11.5 hrs to summit from Thumb Rock. Crowds and bottleneck at the crux. I spent over an hour waiting for Dave & Brad to climb the ice as they themselves were waiting for the 3-person Russian team to finish climbing (the Russians arrived first at the base of the ice and we didn't want to rain down tons of ice on them). All 4 teams, including ourselves, decided to camp out on the summit crater as we're all spent. Next day (Thurs, May 31st) we descended the Emmons-Winthrop glacier and down to the White River campground trailhead. TR to follow soon.
Date Climbed: July 5, 2004
Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver
After a failed attempt in June 2003, this time we nailed it. Our Los Angeles/Chicago team summited Rainier Monday, July 5th, 2004. All 7 of us summited--- rope team #1: mdostby, Steven Sauter, jimconsid, Gibran Begum; rope team #2: agorokhov, Jamie Norris, myself.
We left Camp Muir at 12:15am and reached the summit crater rim at 9:20am. We unroped at the crater rim and then everyone went at their own pace to tag the true summit (Columbia Crest: 14,411'). I made the summit at 9:37am. Then, after the mandatory summit pictures, we all headed down at 10:00am. We were luckly to have excellent weather and perfect route conditions for the most part. Most of us were spent after the climb and decided to stay an additional night at Camp Muir before heading out to Paradise the next day. We had our celebratory dinner at Puerto Vallarta Mexican restaurant in Eatonville, WA. Great food! I highly recommend to eat here after your climb.
Date Climbed: June 18, 2003
Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver
No summit. We reached 11,900' (just a few hundred feet below the top of the Cleaver).
Our team: Mike (mdostby), Alex (agorokhov), Murray Zichlinsky and myself. We had been planning this trip for the past 6 months. We even practiced crevasse rescue out of a bridge in the Los Angeles area.
We hiked in on a sunny Tuesday (June 17th) to Camp Muir. However, before leaving Paradise, we knew the weather forecast was calling for poor weather in days ahead. We thought we could beat the incoming bad weather---we were wrong. We roped up and started walking away from Camp Muir at 1:40am Wednesday June 18th. Crossed the Cowlitz Glacier, up thru Cathedral Gap (we encountered some idiots dislodging all kinds of rocks from above), skirted a few crevasses thru the Ingraham Glacier and by sunrise at 11,900 feet we decided to call it quits. The combination of high winds, inclement weather, and 2 team members who felt tired prompted us to turn around at this point. We safely made it back to Camp Muir, broke camp and headed down to the Paradise parking lot. We plan to try again next summer (July 2004).
Great Climb! Always dreamed of doing this since I can remember. Kautz had a few hairy spots, second ice cliff was interesting to climb with a 90cm old school ax. No complaints, amazing climb! Best of luck to all others attempting this season, keep pushing, it's worth!
I've never done anything tougher in my life than summit Rainier.
Day 1. Arrived at Camp Muir at about 5pm.
Day 2. Woke up at 12:45am, left Camp Muir at 2am, summitted at 11:45am, arrived back at Camp Muir at 4pm. (Wasted a *ton* of time on the descent due to a "stupid move" by a climbing partner.)
Day 3. Made the descent from Camp Muir to Paradise in 2 hours and 45 minutes.
Brutal, but worth it!
via Ingraham Glacier Direct. Awesome climb, great day, good weather.
This was a very hard but rewarding mountain to climb. Weather changes very fast. It was very cold on top.
Perfect day; windy uptop.
Highly recommend a night at the historic Paradise Inn. Looking out over the clouds at sunrise was incredible.
tons of snow compared to many mountains awesome climb lots of fun
Left Camp Muir on April 19th around 4am, arrived at the summit in 6hr 5min. I was with a group of 9 clients and 4 guides from RMI to arrive at Columbia Crest. It was an amazing day and I arrived at the summit wearing only a long sleeve base layer shirt on top - that's how nice it was. It was probably 45F on the summit.
Due to the massive amounts of snow (vs a summer attempt), we came up the Ingraham Glacier Route and made a pretty direct path up to the summit. Most of the crevasses were bridged over and limited route finding was necessary by our lead guide.
What an incredible day. Since the park has been closed to the public since the November rain storms, I believe we were the first people to summit since November.
We were so lucky to have such an incredible day.
Very enjoyable climb.