Physical Graffiti

Approach

Follow the directions on the main page under "Getting There" section, specifically the directions to Calico Basin area. From either of the two parking lots, follow the well beaten trail north then west as it rounds the corner of Calico Hills. You will pass a huge boulder at the base of the Hills, Cannibal Crag. Follow the tail for about 150 yards past Cannibal Crag and then turn off trail to the left and head up hill towards the obvious, biggest section of visible rock. Check "Photos" section for a visual reference. Additionally, this page contains a link that gives accurate GPS coordinates for the start of this route. Start at the northeast corner of the wall at a varnished dihedral with a crack running up and slightly right (see photo for start of pitch one). 50 feet to the right of this route you should see the start of "Over the Hill to Grandmother's House (a 5.9+ alternative for pitch 1 of Physical Graffiti) - a vertical crack running up through a low roof starting atop of boulders.

Route Description

The route is done in two pitches on beautifully colored rock. Uriost'e guidebook (2nd ed.) has this route mistakenly described as a 5.9. This is a clear typo since the photo she includes shows the correct route.

Pitch 1: 5.6, 130 feet. Follow the crack up to a bolted belay stance. Note the large wobbling rock about 20 feet below the belay stance.

Pitch 2: 5.6, 160 feet. Traverse right about 10 feet from the belay stance to join the second pitch of Over the Hill to Grandmother's House. Follow the crack and some face sections up till you run out of rope. You should be able to reach a flat area atop with nice options for gear belay.

Descent:
Option 1 (by rpc): Walk right and slightly down to find a bolted rap station. A single rope rappel will suffice here. You can scramble the rest of the way down this gully - don't stay too close to the wall on your right (climber's left) or you might be forced to do one more short but akward rappel.

Option 2 (by BranchWhitney): You can actually descend without a rap. From the top, traverse climber's left to an obvious gully/chute. Follow it down to the start of the climb. Nothing harder than class 3.

Essential Gear

Small to medium rack. A set of cams; a set of wired nuts. The first 2 or 3 small tricams work well (pink, red, & blue).

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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Images

View Physical Graffiti Image Gallery - 22 Images