Night Butterfly

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Night Butterfly
Created On: Dec 6, 2011
Last Edited On: Sep 30, 2014


Spreading peak rising to the center of Dzhirnagaktu glacier. The summit rises in the lateral ridge, the result of three sides surrounded by a glacier.
On the top there is overhang, which falls towards the north.

The summit is located deep in the Dzhirnagaktu valley. As a result, it is not visible from the foot of the mountains.

The name was given by members of the expedition, organized by the High Mountain Club from Cracow in 2010. The expedition's goal was exploration,
not visited before, Dzhirnagaktu glacier.

First ascent: 17 August 2010 by Mariusz Norwecki, Tomasz Owerko, Piotr Picheta and Jakub Wrona.
First female ascent: IX.2013 by Imelda Neale, Libby Southgate and Emily Ward

Night Butterfly&Ujgur


Advanced base on Dzhirnagaktu glacier.


Night Butterfly is the last west peak of height above 5000 meters in Tian Shan.

Routes overview

East Ridge

1. Below East Ridge: AD, 5h / 9.Aug.2010 O.Ciez, J.Galka, M.Norwecki, P.Picheta (finished below lower peak).
2. East Ridge: IX.2013 I.Neale, L.Southgate and E.Ward

South Face

3. East couloir: So far only down
4. Central couloir: So far only down
5. West couloir: AD, 4h / 17.Aug.2010 M.Norwecki, T.Owerko, P.Picheta, J.Wrona

Night Butterfly S
South Face

North Face

6. "North Face Corridor": TD/TD- (Da: V 1) / 28.Aug.2012 B.Morrell, A.Zholobenko

North Face
North Face



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Bob Sihler

Bob Sihler - Dec 6, 2011 12:37 pm - Hasn't voted


Just put up one complete page at a time. It's great that you want to contribute, and members would love to see information about remote peaks, but this page itself still needs a lot of work, and it's not good form to put up more like it while this one needs work. Cheers.

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Night Butterfly

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