North wall - classic

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.21950°N / 10.66420°E
Additional Information Route Type: Ice Climbing
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: D inf - D
Additional Information Grade: III
Sign the Climber's Log


Fine, not long and middle difficulty route : a good training start for high mountains routes.
Not to be underestimated anyway !
Steeper and longer than Tour Ronde north wall

Best period to climb is June-July when snow allows a amusing and not hard climbing and crevasses are covered.
Very fine to be done in the moonlight !!!

If wall is in ice maybe less hard and dangerous to follow the northern spur (blu dots on the pic) that (maybe) is a little more difficult but (I think) safer.
(should be similar, I think, to Migot spur to Aiguille du Chardonnet - but shorter )


Starting point is Rif. Denza (2298m)

You must follow the tracks (if any) of the first part of the normal route, then when on the big plateau under the big wall, turn to left and get the centre of the triangular wall, about 100 m letf of the northern spur.

From Rif. Denza to starting point - 2 hours and +
From the starting point to the summit 3 hours (~400 m drop)

Route Description

From the bergschrund (easy to pass with much snow) go straight in the middle of the wall.
When at the same height of a small secondary spur at your right you can go slightly toward right pointing the summit. (this is the steepest section - 60°)
When you arrive to a "bump" turn leftward to gain the summit ridge at the left of terminal cornice.
Along the ridge to the summit

Coming down is easy along the normal route (west ridge and slopes) - from the summit climb down to the long ridge between Presanella and Cima di Vermiglio, point to the saddle south of this summit (Freshfield saddle) and, finding the best way between crevasses go down along the glacier till the plateau.
if you get the summit before 8 o'clock you will not risk to have a hard walking in high snow :)
When on summit my best wish was to have skis :))

Essential Gear

classic for high mountain , some pegs can be useful
in august-september I think they are necessary !!!

Miscellaneous Info

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