Vitaliy M. wrote:And I have PLENTY here to keep me busy for 2 life times.

I stopped traveling to climb because after getting married I got too home sick on long trips and have found that there is plenty to climb within a one day's drive of Seattle.

But you guys have crappy weather usually. I love the Sierra not only for best rock, but the weather here is fantastic. Especially compared to the other ranges. It is really nice knowing that you really could do a load of climbs that have been on your list, over the next summer. And season here is very reasonable May-October for most rock climbs. Although I would say it is probably the best July-mid September.

Even winter is not bad! When one has the will to suffer a bit.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Third-Pilla ... 1353n.html

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Mithril-Dih ... 1374n.html

I have one total value for you guys, the complete South Buttress of Mount Moran all the way to the summit. Incredible climb, one of the longest alpine rock climbs in the lower US, about 48 pitches. The lower South Buttress Direct was originally rated IV, 5.9 A3 (50 Classic Climbs of North America) but it goes at stiff 5.8 and one pitch of A1 (or 5.12A). The rest is an incredible never-ending ridge on solid Tetons granite with everything from 4th to 5.7. There is no getting off this ridge once you get past the top of the lower buttress. IMO, one of the best, total commitment climbs on this side of the divide...Absolute must for anyone visiting the Tetons.

48 pitches

WOW how much total elevation gain is that? sounds like a long ways!

Grand Teton, Exum Ridge
Clyde Minaret- SE face (direct variation)
Temple Crag- Sun Ribbon Arete
Mt. Williamson- NE ridge
Mt. Russell- Fishhook Arete
The Nose
Matthes Crest
Tenaya Peak- N(?- the one straight up from the lake) buttress
Higher Cathedral Rock- NE buttress
Mt. Kenya- normal route
Petit Grepon- S face
Castle Rock- Kor-Ingalls

I can't dispute the stuff about bad weather in the Northwest. For me, the heavily glaciated scenery and rich biome from deep jungle to high crag in a day make the Northwest my favorite place in the US. I was not above a trip to the Sierra though when I wanted perfect weather!

I think you can count on a small snowfield at the Helicopter Ledge bivy on Slesse. Check out in our video where we made use of that. Good to ask on cc.com first. I agree that if you have to carry many quarts of water, it would be more fun to do it in a day. I think I just had one quart of water for the approach, refilled it with a liberal long drink on the pocket glacier slabs (bare), and then made it to the bivy for more snowmelt no problem:

(for full value on Matthes Crest do the complete crest. It's the long and sometimes poorly protected gradual descent from the high point that gives just a little bit of stress that becomes good memories later! )

MVS, I think you would like Sierra from the west. Would probably remind you of Cascades, but with better weather. Although you would not be able to spent time at Owens river gorge with The Chief. West tends to get a lot more percip during winter and in summer, so the area is a lot more green, and approaches are more difficult.

Castle Rock Spire and other rock formations around it are notorious for failed climbs due to approach. Easiest route up it is a 5.9/8 A2 I think. There are a lot of great photos in the thread bellow, check it out.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum ... owell-1962
If you have a vacation, I think this place would make a great destination. Some day I will check it out myself. For sure.

There is also the biggest dome in CA. Which supposedly makes el cap and HD look small. But is not climbed much because of the big approach. The whole valley is supposedly like Yosemite, but without tourists. One would most likely have it to themselves if they have some time...can't wait to check it out.
http://www.summitpost.org/tehipite-dome/569031

Mathes is a better traverse going North to south. I want to do it again actually. Tenaya peak though a full value climb? lol might as well include 1st pitch of jamcrack. Although jamcrack probably has a longer approach/and is more technical.

I think if one wants a good full value day, it is a great idea to link North Ridge of North peak, North ridge of Conness, and West Ridge of Conness. Can bail after completing any of them. Great rock. Great scenery all day. A lot of scrambling/climbing without huge approaches. Couple of friends and I did it last summer, and we had TONS of fun.

Yep, all good things, and I didn't know about the west greener side of the Sierra. Seems like the fame of Yosemite drowns out a lot of nice country...

mvs wrote:Yep, all good things, and I didn't know about the west greener side of the Sierra. Seems like the fame of Yosemite drowns out a lot of nice country...

It's a good thing. It is nice to have some places without buses full of tourists. Wild places with tons of bears and rattle snakes, only a few get to visit ; )

For me, full value has had a lot to do with circumstance. Many climbs have an inherent difficulty to them, but add weather or other unforeseen circumstances and you get an epic.

I remember climbing the NE Buttress on Colchuck and it went fairly easy (for me). It was an involved and varied route, truly awesome and worthy of more fame.

Another worthy climb in my opinion would be Piassano pinnacle with the Burgundy spire link-up. Beautiful position, amazing rock, and lots of climbing.

The roman mustache on Mount Baker in the winter was the hardest route I have done both mentally and physically. Not overly technical but a lot of time on the front points in the frigid cold, 25 hours car to car, ran out of water (froze in my pack), summited at sunset, stove broke, got mild frost nip on my toes, lost the trail on the way out. I remember staggering through the crevasse field like a drunk and dead ending repeatedly. Painful at the time, but good memories looking back.

There are so many.

jordansahls wrote:I remember climbing the NE Buttress on Colchuck and it went fairly easy (for me). It was an involved and varied route, truly awesome and worthy of more fame.

Was that back in August 2009? We had a party below us that I was afraid of dropping rocks onto while climbing through the Pink Dyke, but I think the other party took the Kearney Variation.

ExcitableBoy wrote:

jordansahls wrote:I remember climbing the NE Buttress on Colchuck and it went fairly easy (for me). It was an involved and varied route, truly awesome and worthy of more fame.

Was that back in August 2009? We had a party below us that I was afraid of dropping rocks onto while climbing through the Pink Dyke, but I think the other party took the Kearney Variation.

It was late July of 2009 (the 26th I think). I remember there being a party above us on the Beckey variation. Was that you? I seem to remember someone with the avatar Z-man being on the party above us, if that rings any bells.

jordansahls wrote:It was late July of 2009 (the 26th I think). I remember there being a party above us on the Beckey variation. Was that you? I seem to remember someone with the avatar Z-man being on the party above us, if that rings any bells.

That was me and the Z-man (Aaron Zabriske) above you. I suppose it was July 26th, not August then. The only access to the buttress across the moat put us below the recommended start which had one excellent pitch and one horrible pitch through the Pink Dyke. I heard a party below and was yelling down to stay out from under us while I was on the Pink Dyke pitch. We had only the Beckey description to follow. Where does the Kearney variation start?

ExcitableBoy wrote:That was me and the Z-man (Aaron Zabriske) above you. I suppose it was July 26th, not August then. The only access to the buttress across the moat put us below the recommended start which had one excellent pitch and one horrible pitch through the Pink Dyke. I heard a party below and was yelling down to stay out from under us while I was on the Pink Dyke pitch. We had only the Beckey description to follow. Where does the Kearney variation start?

I remember hearing someone yell, we were wondering what was going on over on your side. The Kearny variation starts almost directly at the base of the ridge and follows a clean crack feature up a fin of rock. I have attached a picture with our approximate route. The arrow is the start of the Kearny variation. Also, it was a while ago so it's not 100% accurate. Also, I posted a TR from out climb on CC.com (http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... ber=896797) that shows the route well.

I found the crux to be the slabs below the ridge proper, that part took a bit of thought for me. I really like the climb, much more exciting and consistent than Serpentine arete accross the way.