Vitaliy M. wrote:

mvs wrote: NE Arete of Sir Donald. I don't know our exact CTC time, but it was long. Lots of soloing or simul-climbing on that required for a day trip.

My friend wants to do that, I do too.

If you can pack really light, then a bivouac on the route makes it an unforgettable weekend trip, not especially hard but "just right."

So the views from high on the route are nice? I do not really enjoy to bivy, but some times it is worth it for the views IMO. Sucks to carry extra gear/food/water. I am sure there will be no snow up there to melt. Also, we will have 1 car, so unable to shuttle. Does that complicate things a lot?
How are temperatures/weather around that altitude in August? (i will check forecast when I will go, but what can I expect?)

There is also South Ridge of Mt. Gimli. If we can do Gimli, Slesse, and 3-5 climbs in Bugaboos I would be super happy. Will mostly depend on the weather.

Hey Vitaly, nice job on the Mithral winter climb! I enjoyed your partner's TR. Just to throw some monkey wrenches into your plans…
if you're gonna hike in all this way to Colchuck Lk., might as well consider the Backbone Ridge with Fin Dir. (that is if you like splendid alpine views and fun, cruiser climbing)…advertised as 14 pitch 5.9 but there's really only 1 or 2 5.9 pitches are they're casual:


on the scale of this thread, Gimli via s. ridge is about a 33%-er value wise. Easily doable c2c I'd imagine (drive to TH took us as long as the hike in…our car was overheating)


for your casual day, I'd head for WA Pass - minimum hiking & much climbing pleasure….additional suggestions for that place are the east side lines like E. face of Lexington (5.9), DEB of south early winters spire, or (slightly more adventurous) e. face of minuteman. the oatmeal of the lower 1/2 is well worth the splitters of the upper. all the bs about those is here on sp.



for a 75% day, head up into the wine spires (by WA pass) …so much good granite:


…anyway, have fun. seems SP will only let me participate in the forums only once a month or so it'll be a while before I'm allowed to respond LOL...back to my cell now.

rpc, wow, those cracks look amazing. Will research more of that! Less hiking more climbing is good for this vacation. : )

Washington Pass (Liberty Bell, Early Winter Spires, Wine Spires) have such short approaches locals call it alpine cragging and it is east of the crest and can have better weather.

Vitaliy M. wrote: Tenaya peak though a full value climb? lol might as well include 1st pitch of jamcrack. Although jamcrack probably has a longer approach/and is more technical.

Since when did your mocking tone move off from trolls like the Chief and on to friends like Dirk? You might pass it off as people "knowing your sarcasm", but if other people don't follow that style with you (which I know Dirk doesn't), then that really comes off as being a bit of a jerk and dismissive of your behavior.

FYI, that line struck me as pretty condescending rather than an attempt at humor. :-/

PellucidWombat wrote:

Vitaliy M. wrote: Tenaya peak though a full value climb? lol might as well include 1st pitch of jamcrack. Although jamcrack probably has a longer approach/and is more technical.

Since when did your mocking tone move off from trolls like the Chief and on to friends like Dirk? You might pass it off as people "knowing your sarcasm", but if other people don't follow that style with you (which I know Dirk doesn't), then that really comes off as being a bit of a jerk and dismissive of your behavior.

FYI, that line struck me as pretty condescending rather than an attempt at humor. :-/

Maybe since he became an "expert. . " lol.

Vitaliy justifies...I did not say Tenaya is 'not a great climb.' I thought this thread was more about long, under-appreciated climbs <snip> Vitaliy then lectures what is underappreciated and full value: I said North Ridge of Conness if done with North Ridge of North peak and West ridge of Conness in a day. That is a ton of scrambling/climbing, and is rarely done in this combo!

whoa. who died and left vitaliy in charge. the gene pool is getting weaker and more ignorant.

Lay off Vitaliy. We are actually just having a good conversation about (double take) climbing here.

x15x15 wrote:
whoa. who died and left vitaliy in charge.

Me?

PellucidWombat wrote:

Vitaliy M. wrote: Tenaya peak though a full value climb? lol might as well include 1st pitch of jamcrack. Although jamcrack probably has a longer approach/and is more technical.

Since when did your mocking tone move off from trolls like the Chief and on to friends like Dirk? You might pass it off as people "knowing your sarcasm", but if other people don't follow that style with you (which I know Dirk doesn't), then that really comes off as being a bit of a jerk and dismissive of your behavior.

FYI, that line struck me as pretty condescending rather than an attempt at humor. :-/

How would you know that Dirk doesn't? On one of the first times I hung out with Dirk he told me about something clever and specific he asked Steve House to write on his book(at a signing). Since than I thought of Dirk as someone with advanced sense of humor. I sure hope I did not hurt anyone's feelings, because I did not mean to have a negative tone to what I wrote, it was supposed to be more sarcastic/playful. Every time I met Dirk I had only positive things to say about him, and if he took it in a wrong way I appologize. Being condescending towards someone who has done the Nose does not really work, does it? LOL I thought you know me a bit better than this. How many times did I tell you (or we had discussions about) about how I feel when someone acts as if they are better than someone, even if they are. My point is that with a 10 minute approach and dozens of parties on route Tenaya is not more than alpine cragging.

dskoon, so glad you consider me an expert. means a lot to me. Maybe next thing I can do to gain more 'bad ass' points is change my icon to a photo of me climbing something hard looking? You think 15x15 will approve my existance if i do?

Vitaliy M. wrote:
dskoon, so glad you consider me an expert. means a lot to me. Maybe next thing I can do to gain more 'bad ass' points is change my icon to a photo of me climbing something hard looking? You think 15x15 will approve my existance if i do?

Hey man, I know you're much more of a climber than I, as are plenty of others on here, and I'm fairly certain my scarcasm means nothing to you. .
And, I'm not intending to get into anything with you, believe it or not. .
Mainly, I was making a pointed comment on the same thing others have mentioned, which was the slightly condescending/dismissive tone you have used not only in this thread, but in a couple others, in response to honest, real questions from others. .
But, whatever. Jmo. Take it for what it's worth. . . I don't want to derail a good thread any further.

I'm declaring the ski tour I dd yesterday full value for no other reason than that I came home and took a five hour nap. Then I went to bed :p

mvs wrote:I'm declaring the ski tour I dd yesterday full value for no other reason than that I came home and took a five hour nap. Then I went to bed :p

That definitely sounds full value!

Okay, I'll try to back up my claim now. It's like a ski tour, but you'd better bring crampons and ice axe for the summit couloir. It is fairly long, about 1600 meters up and down (5300 feet). On the approach is a 200 meter long "no slip allowed" traverse above cliffs, really early when the snow is frozen. It's spring, with different slope aspects, so you deal with all manner of breakable crust, firn, and the rare bit of powder. Ah well, maybe I'm just psyched after a great tour!

Climbing up the Leutascher Dreitorspite on skis, a rather long 1600 meters up, with a hilariously dense but steep forest skirt to navigate on the way up (a wrong turn made it worse!). Here a skier continues up valley under the Musterstein:



One great view from the summit. If you zoom in on the ridge, you'll see a tiny red bivouac hut. That is the top of the Schüsselkarspitze, home of some incredible classic rock climbs:



Finally, a view to the "ski depot" below the summit, showing folks booting up the steep access couloir. I'm not much of a skier so I think the 5 hour nap came from the mental buildup of that descent!


There is no substitute for the joy of getting out there, that is for sure...

sjarelkwint wrote:I did a 5.6 today at 9 in the morning after partying till 6 in the morning. I was still a bit drunk ... Did a 5.11 in the afternoon with a brutal hangover ... I consider both Full Value

Stef, sometimes I think your liver is the size of a cat. A big cat.

Vitaliy M. wrote:

dskoon, so glad you consider me an expert. means a lot to me. Maybe next thing I can do to gain more 'bad ass' points is change my icon to a photo of me climbing something hard looking? You think 15x15 will approve my existance if i do?

oh no you don't! don't put that responsibilty on my shoulders. you're the one that is in charge now. i couldn't care less regarding your existance. you provide much entertainment, but still, you are a condenscending prick. i kind of like your attitude.

btw, a real good day for your trip to the great PNW would be Juno Tower. super fun, and c2c, i think this would be your cup-o-tea!!!