We are planning to go to Arequipa for the first time over Xmas and Newyears (my wife is actually from Arequipa) and I wanted to climb one of the volcanoes there (Misti or Chachani). But I have a few questions and was hoping that I could get some help on the forum here.

- Is it a good time fo the year to go climbing in terms of the weather?
- Do you need any technical experience? From what I've read, it does not sound like it and I have climbed over 14,000ft with crampons and ice axe in California.
- My sister in law, who runs a travel agency in Arequipa, was supposed to find me a guide, but I was wondering if there are any recommendations on a guide.
- What do you guys recommend for acclimatisation? It seems a bit of a stretch to me to go from 8000ft to 20000 in just a couple of days. Did anybody ever take any Diamox (it was recommended in a climbing book)?
- How difficlut are the higher volcanoes like Coropuna or Ampato that are a little bit further away from Arequipa?

By the way, if anybody else is planning to go to Arequipa around the same time to go climbing, please send me a message and maybe we can hook up there.

Any help or comments are greatly appreciated!

Thanks, Matt.

- Is it a good time fo the year to go climbing in terms of the weather?

It's not the best time of year, but still OK.

- Do you need any technical experience?

No, unless a fresh storm has covered the mountains with snow and ice.

- My sister in law, who runs a travel agency in Arequipa, was supposed to find me a guide, but I was wondering if there are any recommendations on a guide.

Zarate is known as the most reputable guide service actually in Arequipa.

SP member Vic Hansen does guiding north of the area, but I don't think he guides El Misti or Chachani? You could send him a PM as he knows much about the area.

- What do you guys recommend for acclimatisation? It seems a bit of a stretch to me to go from 8000ft to 20000 in just a couple of days.

You had better acclimatize for several days. There are many places in the area to do so, such as in the Colca Canyon or Andagua region (or even Puno or Cuzco). Here is the trek we did before heading for Ubinas, a peak near El Misti:

http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock ... erani.html

http://www.summitpost.org/route/380564/ ... dagua.html

- How difficlut are the higher volcanoes like Coropuna or Ampato that are a little bit further away from Arequipa?

Grade F, but requires experience or guide. You should read all the SP pages for the region, if you haven't already. See links to specific mountains on the left side of the page below:

http://www.summitpost.org/area/range/17 ... quipa.html

Most of the answers to your questions are on the pages.

Hi Matt,

The end of December is the start of the rainy season here, you could get great weather, or you could get rain, with snow and no visibility on the mountains. The chances of good weather are better then than later on in the rainy season. Be prepared to wait a few days for good weather.

Both Chachani and Misti are non-technical, there shouldn't be any old snow on them at that time and new snow will melt rapidly.

First question - Where do you live and at what altitude? If you are at 8,000 feet and are regularly working out and in good shape, especially if you are climbing above that, will help a lot, especially if you can get up to 10-12,000 feet. Many people do them with less acclimatizing than that. If the previous is true, your biggest problem will probably be trouble sleeping, base camps are around 15-16,000 feet, some a little higher on Chachani. There is a big difference between 14,000 feet and 19-20,000 feet. For climbing, I really start to feel it at about 15-16,000 and have to really slow down. Same with sleeping for me, 13-14,000 is OK, 15-16,000 and I feel like I'm not getting enough air. You will probably have a headache, bring something for that. There is a good trail on both mountains.

What you need more than a guide is transportation and a partner (if you don't want to climb solo). Most of the agencies "offer" daily climbs, but most sell the package to someone else to get a group. See my page on Ampato for guide recommendations, Julver is great but "overkill" for these mountains. What travel agency does your sister in law run?

There are really no good training hikes in Arequipa, except to go partway up the mountains, Chachani is probably best for this. The main problem is transportation, and safety on routes that can be accessed by public transportation.

I've never used or needed Diamox, but the locals all swear by coca tea or chew on the leaves, haven't tried that either.

Coropuna and Ampato aren't technical either, but you will need crampons and an ice axe for them. Besides that and the additional altitude, the biggest problem with them is the cost of transportation. There are also no established trails, just a few use paths lower down, a guide would be recomended for them unless you are an experienced solo climber or at least have a partner. See my various trip reports, especially the seven summits one.

Vic

Scott, thanks for your reply. That should help me a lot.

Vic, I appreciate your detailed reply. I actually live close to sea level in Connecticut. I used to live in California and did a lot of stuff around 10,000ft and higher but about 2 years ago I moved to CT (because of a job). I consider myself to be in good shape. I go to the gym regularly and hike and mountain bike. But because I live at sea level I was a little bit concerned about the acclimatisation. I was not really considering taking Diamox unless somebody here had some personal experience.
I was trying to open the link to Julver's agency on your Ampato site but there appears to be a problem. I was considering to hire a guide mainly for safety and to take care of some of the logistics. I guess my wife would feel better if I went with a guide as well.
By the way, how cold does it get up on the mountains in late Dec./realy Jan.?
I do not know the name of the travel agency of my sister in law in Arequipa but I'll find it out and get back to you on that.

Thanks, Matt.

I agree with Vics thoughts. My family lives in Peru. I've been to Arequipa many times. I've climbed the local volcanoes.

You can acclimatize quickly for a climb on these mountains if you are in shape, like Vic said. These are nontechnical and climbing day is long but not too bad. Biggest problem is sleep. At 12-14k not bad. Sleeping at 15k (Chachani) or even at 18k (Coropuna) is terrible. Basically little cat naps. Diamox helps a lot with sleep. I've used at and forgot it one time on Coropuna and could not fall asleep and wondered why. It does help.

These are all non-technical, but the altitude will be tough. Going from 6000m to 6400 is definitely tougher than going from 5000 to 5400m. My fastest acclimatization there was arrive in Lima, next day to Arequipa (which is what every tourist does) and walk around for a few hours locally, next day to Coropuna base camp (15k), next day to High Camp (18k), next day summit and return (21k). So to 18k in 3 days after arriving in Lima. I definitely felt in on summit day, slower than normal but still not bad. That experience may be unique but I generally stay in shape and do OK ith altitude. I would not recommend that plan, but keep in mind many tourists arrive in Arequipa and decide to go up Misti with no experience or clothes or anything. Most do OK. You have to know your body. These peaks offer the advantage of a car being able to take you to 15k.

Good luck, they are a good introduction to 6000m, they will test your stamina and skills at basic expeditions and climbing techniques such as eating, drinking, and resting. You will develop as a climber and then can move on to more difficult routes.

I was trying to open the link to Julver's agency on your Ampato site but there appears to be a problem.

Looks like his website is down, will try to remember to check with him about it.

I was considering to hire a guide mainly for safety and to take care of some of the logistics. I guess my wife would feel better if I went with a guide as well.

If you want a real guide, make sure to ask about the guide's qualifications, some are only "guides in training" on Misti and Chachani.

By the way, how cold does it get up on the mountains in late Dec./realy Jan.?

Probably not below freezing at night at the campsites, unless a storm comes in. On a sunny day, will be nice on top but a wind could make it cool. 40 to 50 degrees? My watch showed 71 but that was in the sun and on my wrist.

Mike N wrote: ... Biggest problem is sleep. At 12-14k not bad. Sleeping at 15k (Chachani)...

You don't necessarily have to sleep high to go up Chachani. I arranged a 4WD to leave from Arequipa just before midnight. It dropped me off at the road end rather high on the mountain, I summited and went down to the road end to be picked up again in the afternoon, and I was back for a nice dinner and a good bed. I reckon this is a nice way to do a 6000 m peak and you don't have to bring a sleepingbag

I spent 6 weeks down there in January and February, a month of it with Vic doing various stupid stuff. Work out a deal with him. You won't find a better partner.

You might also want to check the following page here on SummitPost:
Guided Ascent Arrangers in Arequipa
I definitely have to find a way to add Vic to the list
Have fun,
Ario

You might also want to check the following page here on SummitPost:
Guided Ascent Arrangers in Arequipa

Hey Ario, did you use any of those guide services personally? It seems like "Carlos Zarate Adventures" has been recommended on serveral different SP sites.

Thanks, Matt.

To some extent, I have been using the services of both Ulises & Quechua explorer.
I have also run into Zarate "expeditions" twice, taking time to socialize both with the guide and the clients. I have also been "dealing" with Continental...
Don't have much more to add than what's already on the Guided Ascent Arrangers in Arequipa page.
Please pay attention to the lack of visibility high on those volcanoes at that time of the year (I know this first hand as I have climbed El Misti in February)...
...and climb high !!

I climbed El Misti in late May several years ago without a guide. It's a non-technical mountain. The hardest part was finding my tent amongst the huge boulders and talus after the summit. A GPS would have been handy.