Has anyone climbed the Hotlum/Bolam ridge in early October? Or close to this time? If so can you give me info on the route itself and what the conditions may be? Thank you!

I did it in Sep 2010 and a few days ago. The only different I remember (in 2010) there was a very short icy section while crossing the "top of Bolam Glacier". The rest was snow.

On the other hand, a several years ago, not sure how late, it was all ice.

Instead of crossing the top of the Bolam Glacier on the right, or going left onto steeper ice (unless you are looking for that), it is possible to stay on rock straight up the ridge. You walk a bit to the left side of the ridge where needed just above the Rabbit Ears, but not very far. Class 3 and pretty steep, just for a short stretch.

As of last weekend the Hotlum/Bolam Ridge route was in quite good conditions. There are a few inches of recent snow covering higher slopes with old and partially icy snow but easy to manage. On higher elevations there are some more exposed icy spots at which one has to be more careful on the way down. There is no running water anywhere, and no ice worms:) The base camp is clear of snow though. The weather, ...well you should always check but don't fully rely on the forecast. And, of course, you would most likely be climbing in solitude. I noticed at night a couple of red lights just above the forest and the next day a couple of people way down on the ridge but there were more like ghosts; no other cars at the trailhead. ...and no animals running around at the camp at night, just wind. Definitely gratifying experience. What can I say, that's Mt Shasta.

So how was the weather?

mrchad9 wrote:So how was the weather?

The weather on the upper part of the mountain was exciting (including snowing) but acceptable, however, not as forecasted earlier or even the day before the actual climb.