how high can I get in the alps without crossing a glacier?

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Europe. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Europe Climbing Partners section.
User Avatar
Alexheaton

 
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed May 06, 2009 11:48 am
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

how high can I get in the alps without crossing a glacier?

by Alexheaton » Wed May 06, 2009 1:04 pm

as if i cant find a mountaineering partner for this summer, Which high peaks can i do safely solo?

User Avatar
cb294

 
Posts: 180
Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 7:32 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: how high can I get in the alps without crossing a glacie

by cb294 » Wed May 06, 2009 1:20 pm

Alexheaton wrote:as if i cant find a mountaineering partner for this summer, Which high peaks can i do safely solo?


Lagginhorn, 4012m, is the highest of the mountains I have climbed via a route that can be done safely solo. The glacier remnant on the normal route is all but disappeared, has no crevasses to speak of, and can be circumvented anyway by getting onto the ridge a bit earlier.

Just next door, Weissmies (4020m) normal route is too dangerous solo (almost only glacier travel), but the southwest ridge from Almageller hut can probably be done alone.

Of course, higher mountains are done regularly, but most of those require some climbing that I personally would do roped, or extensive glacier travel.

Cheers,

Christian

User Avatar
JHH60

 
Posts: 1244
Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 6:59 pm
Thanked: 111 times in 91 posts

by JHH60 » Wed May 06, 2009 4:09 pm

People have soloed the Eiger Nordwand - guess it depends on your definition of safe. :D

User Avatar
Diego Sahagún

 
Posts: 14465
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2001 6:21 pm
Thanked: 748 times in 682 posts

by Diego Sahagún » Wed May 06, 2009 4:39 pm

Why don't you want to cross a glacier :?:

User Avatar
kiwiw

 
Posts: 353
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2007 11:49 pm
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

by kiwiw » Wed May 06, 2009 5:09 pm

Diego Sahagún wrote:Why don't you want to cross a glacier :?:

because he'll be really high! :lol:

User Avatar
WouterB

 
Posts: 3134
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2008 4:54 pm
Thanked: 13 times in 13 posts

by WouterB » Wed May 06, 2009 6:08 pm

kiwiw wrote:
Diego Sahagún wrote:Why don't you want to cross a glacier :?:

because he'll be really high! :lol:

:D :D :D

User Avatar
Luciano136

 
Posts: 3778
Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2006 11:46 pm
Thanked: 11 times in 10 posts

by Luciano136 » Wed May 06, 2009 7:36 pm

Diego Sahagún wrote:Why don't you want to cross a glacier :?:


Because he has no partner. I wouldn't cross a glacier solo either. It only takes one crevasse...

User Avatar
JHH60

 
Posts: 1244
Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 6:59 pm
Thanked: 111 times in 91 posts

by JHH60 » Wed May 06, 2009 9:42 pm

Luciano136 wrote:
Diego Sahagún wrote:Why don't you want to cross a glacier :?:


Because he has no partner. I wouldn't cross a glacier solo either. It only takes one crevasse...


Even if it was later in the season and the glacier was snow-free so you could see the crevasses? Many people would consider that "safe" to do unroped and/or solo.

What Alexheaton hasn't said is what constitutes "safe" solo climbing for him - could be anywhere from class 1 to class 5...

User Avatar
Diego Sahagún

 
Posts: 14465
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2001 6:21 pm
Thanked: 748 times in 682 posts

by Diego Sahagún » Wed May 06, 2009 10:32 pm

JHH60 wrote:
Luciano136 wrote:
Diego Sahagún wrote:Why don't you want to cross a glacier :?:


Because he has no partner. I wouldn't cross a glacier solo either. It only takes one crevasse...


Even if it was later in the season and the glacier was snow-free so you could see the crevasses? Many people would consider that "safe" to do unroped and/or solo.

What Alexheaton hasn't said is what constitutes "safe" solo climbing for him - could be anywhere from class 1 to class 5...


Many glaciers in The Alps can be solo crossed without problems. I haven't done it anyway

User Avatar
Luciano136

 
Posts: 3778
Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2006 11:46 pm
Thanked: 11 times in 10 posts

by Luciano136 » Thu May 07, 2009 12:22 am

JHH60 wrote:
Luciano136 wrote:
Diego Sahagún wrote:Why don't you want to cross a glacier :?:


Because he has no partner. I wouldn't cross a glacier solo either. It only takes one crevasse...


Even if it was later in the season and the glacier was snow-free so you could see the crevasses? Many people would consider that "safe" to do unroped and/or solo.


If it is a well known fact that the glacier exposes all the crevasses by a certain time of the year, I might consider it. So, I guess it really depends on the glacier itself. I'd still be a little worried if that area doesn't see much traffic though. If it's rarely visited, you could be stuck for a few days.

no avatar
Henning Lege

 
Posts: 103
Joined: Wed Jan 30, 2002 4:55 am
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

by Henning Lege » Thu May 07, 2009 11:14 am

Hi,
I can confirm, that Weissmies via Almageller Hut is free of Crevasses. There are snowfields though, and a sharp ridge, for both you need crampons.
Lagginhorn from Weissmies Hut is another solo option indeed. Obviously those two are close to each other.
Other solo peaks I have done succesfully are Uesser Barrhorn (3610, but ugly) and Gross Bigerhorn.
Cheers and good luck,
Henning
BTW. Matterhorn does not have crevasses either, but that is off limits for me ;-)

User Avatar
jck

 
Posts: 275
Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 11:08 am
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

by jck » Thu May 07, 2009 3:10 pm

Borut wrote:How is the glacier doing on the Italian side?
Is there a gacier on the Italian side?

No, there's no glacier either. Rocks only. Maybe some snow in the upper sections.

User Avatar
Luciano136

 
Posts: 3778
Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2006 11:46 pm
Thanked: 11 times in 10 posts

by Luciano136 » Thu May 07, 2009 6:30 pm

Borut wrote:
Alexheaton wrote:I have climbed in the alps / Himalaya sections of very steep snow and ice at angles over 50 degrees with steep steps. Rock sections up to VD. Confident mountaineering skills including some rock and ice leading experience. Previous Alpine climbing and high altitude experience I am an experienced mountaineer who can be self-sufficient.


This is a quote from the profile page of the person who initiated this thread.

My question:
If you are experienced, why do you ask?


It's not because you are experienced that you can do everything alone. My guess is that he is just looking for mountains in the Alps that are safe to do solo for an experienced mountaineer. Steep rock climbs or highly glaciated terrain for example wouldn't be a good idea since you might need a partner.

User Avatar
Luciano136

 
Posts: 3778
Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2006 11:46 pm
Thanked: 11 times in 10 posts

by Luciano136 » Fri May 08, 2009 12:12 am

Borut wrote:
Luciano136 wrote:It's not because you are experienced that you can do everything alone. My guess is that he is just looking for mountains in the Alps that are safe to do solo for an experienced mountaineer. Steep rock climbs or highly glaciated terrain for example wouldn't be a good idea since you might need a partner.


Of course Luciano!

There are 2 questions in the OP.
Well, the Mont Blanc is the highest you can get in the Alps.
An experienced mountaineer can certainly manage the Gouter route (the easiest route) "alone", allthough not avoiding walking on a glacier or two.
An experienced mountaineer would probably know this.


Haha, I'm guessing he just wanted suggestions of a bunch of different mountains in the Alps region. He might've done a few mountains there but not know everything about the whole region.

Of course, we haven't seen any other posts from the OP and he should've defined his question a little better... If he indeed means, what is the highest I can get, then the Mt. Blanc is the correct answer.


Return to Europe

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests