Lost climbers on Shasta updates

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
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96avs01

 
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by 96avs01 » Mon Apr 12, 2010 9:41 pm

mconnell wrote:
Luciano136 wrote:
Tom Fralich wrote:It isn't clear to me why some people feel that there hadn't been enough time for cerebral edema to develop? How long were they hunkered down near the summit? A night, which was probably at least 8 hours, is certainly enough time.


Yeah, but he was fine all night and even in the morning. The symptoms came on really fast while he was putting on his gear. That's what's strange. If he gradually developed symptoms throughout the night, then it would seem normal.


Symptoms aren't always noticed. The only case of HACE that I've seen, the guy had very few symptoms (headache, a little dizziness). He later passed out. He could barely walk or talk and had to be helped off the mountain. All symptoms were gone after dropping below about 16,000'.


My experience was similar. Felt fine, then completely uncoordinated five minutes later (like going from sober to wasted drunk in 300 seconds or less).

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PellucidWombat

 
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by PellucidWombat » Tue Apr 13, 2010 9:40 pm

We are organizing a Bay Area memorial for Tom. Although only a few people on SP met Tom, if anyone is interested in attending to celebrate his life with us, let me know and I'll keep you in the loop. We'll be doing a BBQ & backpack trip along the beach and it will be over April 23-25.

Misha, Dirk, Sam, and Gordon - I already have you on the e-mail list for when planning is finalized and the invitation is sent out.

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GEM Trail

 
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by GEM Trail » Tue Apr 13, 2010 11:39 pm

My condolences to all affected by this tragedy.

Pellucid Wombat said:

We summitted twice. First on Friday via the Bolam Glacier, and then Saturday via the Whitney Glacier. We spent Saturday night on the summit when we couldn't descend the Whitney-Bolam Ridge.

So they spent two days and nights at or near the top of the mountain. I don't know- is that enough time to develop hace?

And are blood clots more likely at elevation? I know low oxygen environments do other weird things to your body. Does it make you clot more too?

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MoapaPk

 
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by MoapaPk » Wed Apr 14, 2010 12:30 am

GEM Trail wrote:And are blood clots more likely at elevation? I know low oxygen environments do other weird things to your body. Does it make you clot more too?


According to some. I've been told that people are more likely to suffer a heart attack after prolonged stays at altitude. I've heard various explanations, from greater viscosity as the blood starts producing more red blood cells and platelets, to increased levels of stress hormones, to simple dehydration increasing the concentration of prothrombin and cofactors.

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