News of Technique and Training

I started an index of 'how to' type articles related to alpine climbing here: http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.p ... irm_post=7 My hope is this index will grow and become a one stop shop for those seeking tips and techniques for climbing. Please let me know if you have any articles that you think should be added.

Thanks much,

EB

Hi all,

I am a runner/hiker/climber/skier who developed a stress fracture in my 2nd metatarsal of my left foot. (That's the bone that leads into my pointer toe, or the toe next to my big toe.) I only recently found out it was a stress fracture after trying to rehab it myself for 2 months. I am having a walking boot put on it next Tuesday and will be in that for 6 weeks (please ...

Anyone have any good tips for drying climbing skins while winter camping? My BD Ascension skins usually work fine even when wet, but it'd be no fun if they froze after a day of touring and didn't want to work the next day when I was deep in the backcountry. I use a 2 person tent, so maybe rigging up a hanger for them would work? Any advice would be appreciated.

So... it's snowing with 40 mph winds. Where do set up your stove and cook? Inside the tent or vestibule seems obvious, but I'm terrified of burning down my tent (with me in it) or poisoning myself with CO. Is this a semi-irrational fear, or do you set up windbreaks, etc and cook outside? I use either a MSR Whisperlite or cat can stove, depending on the temp.

Ok, I'm going to preface this by admitting it could be the dumbest idea to ever exist. I may definitely be overlooking something. Everywhere I read says that the drawback of the double carabiner clove hitch method while solo leading is that you have to reclimb the route. I keep thinking that there has to be a better way, especially on a shorter pitch.

Here's my thought.... Couldn't you set up an anchor at the ...

I would like to get some of your opinions about what boots some of you have used on Aconcagua.

Mainly what brand/type of doubles you used.

Is it possible to use a boot like Scarpa Phantom Guide?

Anyone used Spantik?

I also know that many wear their Millet Everest or similar?

Seems like there is a massive wide range of boots used on Aconcagua?

Any thoughts any real life tales would be helpful?

Thanks in ...

Any suggestions for crevasse rescue training on the West coast 2012 that isn't terribly costly? I'd like to get on Rainier this coming Spring.....blah blah blah.... you get the picture. :wink:

My experience so far:
- Spent my summer long distance hiking through the Alps between Munich and Venice. Lots of mountain walking, and lots of elevation gain without reaching any particularly high peaks. Some easy scrambling and via ferrata, and we had to turn back from a few tougher routes which we were unprepared and ill-equipped for (important lessons learnt there!)
- Recently went to Snowdonia. Did the North Ridge on Tryfan (seriously if this ...

I have two problems in poor, cold windy conditions. The first problem is when I wear a buff or gorilla balaclava with my julbo zebra goggles my breath causes ice to build inside my goggles. On two separate occasions this happen once on Mt. Katahdin and once on Mt. Shasta. The wind ranged from 40-70, windchill between -20 to -40, one time with snow the other in the clouds. The other problem is when taking ...

So, there was some guy running and stuffing things in mail boxes wearing this mask:
http://www.trainingmask.com/

Would this work/benefit alpinists? Would it actually help you acclimate? My initial thought is no but I am curious to hear your thoughts. Something about oxygen volume and density are coming to mind