azzy wrote:I am truly serious. I am planning to camp at horse cabin or helen lake and go up a bit and practice self-arrest on the slope. I will not be relying on anyone to babysit me. In case there is someone else there that wants to hook up and climb, that's cool. Or in case something does happen to me, someone will be able to report it. That's all. I am bringing all my own gear and not relying on anyone to regulate my decisions. I have modeled my gearlist after the REI gearlist, so I'm not missing anything essential. If I get sick or tired, I am going to turn around. I looked at the weather forecast and it looks GOOD. Almost perfect. I understand conditions change rapidly and that means I must make hard decisions such as turning around. I do understand that this trip is risky, and the purpose of this post is to minimize that risk with help of some tips. Yes, this is a risky move for me, but I want to live, not merely exist. Thanks.

Wow! You really want to make yourself someone else's problem/responsibility? Get a Spot, then someone from home can keep track of you; don't rely on good strangers...that's BS. Naturally, anyone will be happy to report a body last seen plummeting into Whitney Glacier...if you're lucky enough to make it that far.
Are you walking from the nearest airport or what? Enjoy the mosquitos on the way up Everitt Hwy. I'd like to see REI's gear list for Shasta - was common sense and humility on it?

As far as a parka, you might be able to pick up a warm used ski jacket pretty cheap second hand (ski season is over back east after all). You want to have something warm for just in case something doesn't go as planned.

telewoman wrote:I'll be teaching a Basic Snow School this Saturday. You should check it out-
http://swsmtns.com/mtshastaclinics.html

I might actually take you up on that, since this option includes the wonderful perk of a ride to the mountain, then after the class I could make it up to Horse Cabin, and prepare to ascend. Would I get a discount since I'm renting my own gear for the climb?

To some other posters. I am sort of disappointed with lack of actual advice and the amount of snobbery. All of these wonderful mountains are in your guys' backyard. I don't have the luxury of going there whenever I feel like. I prepared the best I could, mentally and physically. I am trying to make my west-coast vacation truly memorable (no irony intended, a.k.a. me getting injured or dying being "memorable")

Hello azzy

I'm not the greatest expert on Shasta, but I can speak as someone who was in a very similar situation to you a year ago. First if you are not already familiar with this website, you should check it out

http://www.shastaavalanche.org/advisori ... g-advisory

The thing that struck me in the advisory now is the avalanche danger is somewhat high, that is the only thing keeping me off the mountain this weekend. Things might consolidate by this weekend though... At least the forecast has improved.

As for going “solo”, that is not really possible on this route. If you can try to find a group to stick with, do so, it doesn't really need to be formal, but being around others could make your trip a lot less stressful. Just because you stick with some other people doesn't mean your “depending” on them. Use your own judgment and make your won descisons.

Learning to self arrest on your own can be done, but it is probably harder than you think. I did it this way but bought the equipment off ebay and practiced several times at a ski resort. Giving yourself a half day to learn will be a bit tight, but not impossible. The snow school class might be a good option if in doubt.

I would not depend on hitchhiking to get to the mountain, but getting back might not be too much of an issue, a lot of other people will be heading the same way, and might be sympathetic to a fellow climber. Still a lot to leave to chance though. Get a buss schedule or something before leaving.

Also please ignore Marmaduke, he has absolutely no business giving anyone any advice about anything under any circumstances ever. I honestly don't know why he is member of this site as everything he posts has been political BS and irrelevant horse shit.

If you have some basic outdoor skills, and winter camping and the like, what you are doing is hardly stupid. You won't be the only novice on the mountain, and by the sounds of things you have a better idea what your getting yourself into then most of them.

Good luck man, and post up when you get back, I'm curious about conditions.

-Otto

fyi REI has a 100% no questions asked return policy so I would suggest buying all the gear you need and then returning it.

I post this partly because i think it will be helpful and partly because i hate REI.

You're right OOG, what I posted earlier was total BS. I guess there are other members here that are full of BS too as they posted the same concerns as I. I notice the others with my opinion didn't receive your scorn. And if you don't like my politics, go to those threads and voice an opinion as opposed to this approach. Cheers OOG!

I will add OOG, that I wanted to join fellow SPers on the NorCal Round Top excursion via Crescent Moon Couloir in April of 2010. Go look at the posts, only 2 felt that learning crampons and self-arrest while on the mountain was an "ok" idea. Everyone else thought it a bad idea. And that being on only 10,300 foot peak. Once again, Cheers OGG

OOG wrote:Hello azzy

I'm not the greatest expert on Shasta, but I can speak as someone who was in a very similar situation to you a year ago. First if you are not already familiar with this website, you should check it out

http://www.shastaavalanche.org/advisori ... g-advisory

The thing that struck me in the advisory now is the avalanche danger is somewhat high, that is the only thing keeping me off the mountain this weekend. Things might consolidate by this weekend though... At least the forecast has improved.

As for going “solo”, that is not really possible on this route. If you can try to find a group to stick with, do so, it doesn't really need to be formal, but being around others could make your trip a lot less stressful. Just because you stick with some other people doesn't mean your “depending” on them. Use your own judgment and make your won descisons.

Learning to self arrest on your own can be done, but it is probably harder than you think. I did it this way but bought the equipment off ebay and practiced several times at a ski resort. Giving yourself a half day to learn will be a bit tight, but not impossible. The snow school class might be a good option if in doubt.

I would not depend on hitchhiking to get to the mountain, but getting back might not be too much of an issue, a lot of other people will be heading the same way, and might be sympathetic to a fellow climber. Still a lot to leave to chance though. Get a buss schedule or something before leaving.

Also please ignore Marmaduke, he has absolutely no business giving anyone any advice about anything under any circumstances ever. I honestly don't know why he is member of this site as everything he posts has been political BS and irrelevant horse shit.

If you have some basic outdoor skills, and winter camping and the like, what you are doing is hardly stupid. You won't be the only novice on the mountain, and by the sounds of things you have a better idea what your getting yourself into then most of them.

Good luck man, and post up when you get back, I'm curious about conditions.

-Otto

Thank you Otto,

Yeah I will let you know. I am familiar with that website it has practically been my home for the past month. I could probably recite you the snow-levels and temperatures by heart from the past two weeks as well. Will certainly post a trip report, sounds like folks will be interested

jareds wrote:fyi REI has a 100% no questions asked return policy so I would suggest buying all the gear you need and then returning it.

I post this partly because i think it will be helpful and partly because i hate REI.

im renting from fifth season, i like put in an order or w/e i have never really dealt with REI, i just looked at their gear list to modify my own gear list after it

Deb wrote:

azzy wrote:I am truly serious. I am planning to camp at horse cabin or helen lake and go up a bit and practice self-arrest on the slope. I will not be relying on anyone to babysit me. In case there is someone else there that wants to hook up and climb, that's cool. Or in case something does happen to me, someone will be able to report it. That's all. I am bringing all my own gear and not relying on anyone to regulate my decisions. I have modeled my gearlist after the REI gearlist, so I'm not missing anything essential. If I get sick or tired, I am going to turn around. I looked at the weather forecast and it looks GOOD. Almost perfect. I understand conditions change rapidly and that means I must make hard decisions such as turning around. I do understand that this trip is risky, and the purpose of this post is to minimize that risk with help of some tips. Yes, this is a risky move for me, but I want to live, not merely exist. Thanks.

Wow! You really want to make yourself someone else's problem/responsibility? Get a Spot, then someone from home can keep track of you; don't rely on good strangers...that's BS. Naturally, anyone will be happy to report a body last seen plummeting into Whitney Glacier...if you're lucky enough to make it that far.
Are you walking from the nearest airport or what? Enjoy the mosquitos on the way up Everitt Hwy. I'd like to see REI's gear list for Shasta - was common sense and humility on it?

No i'm getting a shuttle from san jose to berryvale. so i'll be in downtown.

I know the spray may come from this, but, did John Muir have an ice axe & crampons with him when he climbed Shasta? Did he take the prerequisite mountaineering course?

telewoman wrote:Good question about ice-axe...but definitely had quite an experience up there.
http://www.yosemite.ca.us/john_muir_wri ... nt_shasta/

That's quite the article, but, typical Muiresque. Will have a go of it later, when I have more time.

Marmaduke wrote:You're right OOG, what I posted earlier was total BS. I guess there are other members here that are full of BS too as they posted the same concerns as I. I notice the others with my opinion didn't receive your scorn. And if you don't like my politics, go to those threads and voice an opinion as opposed to this approach. Cheers OOG!

I will add OOG, that I wanted to join fellow SPers on the NorCal Round Top excursion via Crescent Moon Couloir in April of 2010. Go look at the posts, only 2 felt that learning crampons and self-arrest while on the mountain was an "ok" idea. Everyone else thought it a bad idea. And that being on only 10,300 foot peak. Once again, Cheers OGG

How does that route and slope compare to this one?

Azzy sent me a PM earlier in response to my Shastina trip report asking about this. I'll admit I thought he was joking at first, but then realized he isn't. As a volunteer rescue professional, I couldn't recommend that he attempt this solo, but as a mountaineer, I couldn't help but sympathize with his sense of adventure, even if a little reckless. I suggested he post an info request on the SP forum (which he did, or already had done), but then realized a bunch of folks would shit down his throat, which some people did. I felt kinda bad when I just read this thread.

I fully understand that if Azzy gets into trouble, he will be putting rescuers and probably other climbers at risk, but on the other hand, if he had a partner (or 10 partners) the same would still apply. There's not much adventure left in our daily lives, and I for one enjoy mountaineering because it is an adventure, with real danger sometimes. In my heart of hearts, I can't help but be pulling for Azzy to get out there and do his best, come what may, have an adventure. But as I told him in my PM, if he can find some folks to tag along with, that would be advisable.

As for learning about crampons on the mtn: I don't know, I don't think it's a big deal, at least not for avy gulch. First time I climbed Shasta, 4 out of our group of 5 had never worn them except in their garage. We didn't have any issues. That's my opinion.

azzy wrote:

Marmaduke wrote:You're right OOG, what I posted earlier was total BS. I guess there are other members here that are full of BS too as they posted the same concerns as I. I notice the others with my opinion didn't receive your scorn. And if you don't like my politics, go to those threads and voice an opinion as opposed to this approach. Cheers OOG!

I will add OOG, that I wanted to join fellow SPers on the NorCal Round Top excursion via Crescent Moon Couloir in April of 2010. Go look at the posts, only 2 felt that learning crampons and self-arrest while on the mountain was an "ok" idea. Everyone else thought it a bad idea. And that being on only 10,300 foot peak. Once again, Cheers OGG

How does that route and slope compare to this one?

Based on what I have read and heard, Shasta will be a tougher climb. I read virtually everything that was printed regarding the tragedy in March of 2010 with Mark and Tom. So I have an opinion based on many that are well versed on Shasta. Based on length of route, overall slope is steeper, avalanche probabilty, altitude, temps, weather change etc. And so for an easier route and an easier mountain I was steered away from learning crampons and self-arrest on the fly so to speak. Others voiced this opinion as well but you are free to do what you want. My original post was not to be anything other than sincere. Yes I did make a little fun of your post based largely on others here and their posts. Just because OOG doesn't like my politics he takes a cheap shot at me but others said the same thing I did.

I was on Pickett Peak over Memorial Day and it was pretty miserable. Very high gusts, snow, near white-out conditions, and again, lows in the teens. You stand to have worse condtions and it was a little scary at just 10k feet. And the climb is much. much easier on Pickett. I was only wanting to voice a concern, regardless of what OGG wanted to turn this into.

I wish you all the best.

Troy

Marmaduke wrote:

azzy wrote:

Marmaduke wrote:You're right OOG, what I posted earlier was total BS. I guess there are other members here that are full of BS too as they posted the same concerns as I. I notice the others with my opinion didn't receive your scorn. And if you don't like my politics, go to those threads and voice an opinion as opposed to this approach. Cheers OOG!

I will add OOG, that I wanted to join fellow SPers on the NorCal Round Top excursion via Crescent Moon Couloir in April of 2010. Go look at the posts, only 2 felt that learning crampons and self-arrest while on the mountain was an "ok" idea. Everyone else thought it a bad idea. And that being on only 10,300 foot peak. Once again, Cheers OGG

How does that route and slope compare to this one?

Based on what I have read and heard, Shasta will be a tougher climb. I read virtually everything that was printed regarding the tragedy in March of 2010 with Mark and Tom. So I have an opinion based on many that are well versed on Shasta. Based on length of route, overall slope is steeper, avalanche probabilty, altitude, temps, weather change etc. And so for an easier route and an easier mountain I was steered away from learning crampons and self-arrest on the fly so to speak. Others voiced this opinion as well but you are free to do what you want. My original post was not to be anything other than sincere. Yes I did make a little fun of your post based largely on others here and their posts. Just because OOG doesn't like my politics he takes a cheap shot at me but others said the same thing I did.

I was on Pickett Peak over Memorial Day and it was pretty miserable. Very high gusts, snow, near white-out conditions, and again, lows in the teens. You stand to have worse condtions and it was a little scary at just 10k feet. And the climb is much. much easier on Pickett. I was only wanting to voice a concern, regardless of what OGG wanted to turn this into.

I wish you all the best.

Troy

Hey all I'm looking for is information and advice. I have no idea about your political affiliations and I won't be bothered to research them. I looked up that route (Moon Crescent) and it looks like it's 45 degrees and higher, which is significantly steeper than Avy Gulch route which doesn't exceed 30 degrees (someone correct me if I'm wrong). The weather has improved significantly since then so I am banking on the sun I posted a link to the weather forecast, as did someone else. So far looks much better (doesn't mean I'm not refreshing and looking for changes every hour).