azzy,

Solo climbing is not bravery but skill and responsibility. You need to be able to rescue yourself. There was an instance a several years ago that a person from East Coast came to climb Shasta to raise some charity funds and due to new snowfall called for rescue because he did not feel like descending the mountain on his own.

Relaying on weather forecasts, climbers have got in troubles or even paid with their lives. The top of Mt Shasta (above Red Banks) is quite large and if you get caught around the summit by clouds or whiteout you may not be able to find the proper way back, no visibility, no footprints. But even with a perfect visibility sometimes people get confused and take the wrong way down.

High altitude sickness may bring discomfort or be even fatal or contribute to an accident. Mt Shasta is over 14,000f high.

* * *

However, on a nice weekend you would never be solo on AG, unless climbing late in a day above Helen Lake. So fallow the majority of people. If they go back, you go back. Be aware at all times of clouds' shape and movement. They may appear from nowhere at almoast any time. There is usually a ranger over the weekend on this route who tries to prevent unnecessary unfavorable outcomes. If he tells you it's not safe to continue climbing, fallow his directions. Be aware of high altitude symptoms, but don't be obsessed with thinking about them. Make sure that at any time you can easily descend the mountain. Walking with crampons on snow is simple, climbing ice is different. Self arrest is not that difficult on not too steep slopes and this route is reasonable safe (compare to other) if you cannot quickly stop. Just don't injure yourself with your ice ax. Yes, practice self arrest whenever possible. (This is the only skill that may really save your live while sliding.) Take food which does not contain (much) water, anything that you think you might eat. Melt a lot of snow. You don't want to be thirsty. If you realize you have no adequate cloths for the weather, just go back. Stay warm and dry. Never rest if you feel cold because it will only get worse. Observe your body and environment, use your judgment and act accordingly. It seems that you've already done a lot of research. Now what you need is just the experience.

If you follow the "getting to the summit is optional, getting back is a must," you should be fine. Have a nice and safe climb.

Here is a weather video from a week ago on Mt Shasta, perhaps you've already seen it: http://youtu.be/LjFzBBoH8zY

"haha. were you serious about the headlights falling? I am a bit nervous about the red banks since that slope seems pretty steep. i wouldn't attempt something so risky if i actually lived on the west coast, but i live in the east thus my experience and opportunities are very limited.

thanks for having a bit of faith (unless you were sarcastic, can't tell ), the comments saying i'm on a suicide mission are sort of psyching me out."

well when i climbed AG a gazillion years ago, i saw two bodies tumbling down from Red Banks for a long time. the bodies didn't stop until Helen Lake. ever seen a big dog play with a ragdoll? that's how the bodies look like flying past me. i'm not trying to scare you. just telling you what could happen in certain conditions. i'm in the chain of thought that knowledge comes from experience and experience comes from experience. just don't get hurt in the process.

i don't think it is a suicide mission. with enough time and determination, anyone can climb anything, right? on this route you can count on 1. a lot of people heading up & down 2. kicksteps all the way to the summit. as such, you might not need map/compass skills. i'm not saying it is ok to head out into the mountains without map/compass skills but the situation might not require it. obviously if a storm rolls in out of nowhere, which can happen because Shasta is so big and stands by itself, it can create its own weather. hopefully if the sun is out, the snow will be slush can you don't have to worry about using crampons or self arrest.

hey i've seen a group asking which way is Denali at the Kalhiltna base camp so you are not doing so bad.

kevin trieu wrote:"haha. were you serious about the headlights falling? I am a bit nervous about the red banks since that slope seems pretty steep. i wouldn't attempt something so risky if i actually lived on the west coast, but i live in the east thus my experience and opportunities are very limited.

thanks for having a bit of faith (unless you were sarcastic, can't tell ), the comments saying i'm on a suicide mission are sort of psyching me out."

well when i climbed AG a gazillion years ago, i saw two bodies tumbling down from Red Banks for a long time. the bodies didn't stop until Helen Lake. ever seen a big dog play with a ragdoll? that's how the bodies look like flying past me. i'm not trying to scare you. just telling you what could happen in certain conditions. i'm in the chain of thought that knowledge comes from experience and experience comes from experience. just don't get hurt in the process.

i don't think it is a suicide mission. with enough time and determination, anyone can climb anything, right? on this route you can count on 1. a lot of people heading up & down 2. kicksteps all the way to the summit. as such, you might not need map/compass skills. i'm not saying it is ok to head out into the mountains without map/compass skills but the situation might not require it. obviously if a storm rolls in out of nowhere, which can happen because Shasta is so big and stands by itself, it can create its own weather. hopefully if the sun is out, the snow will be slush can you don't have to worry about using crampons or self arrest.

hey i've seen a group asking which way is Denali at the Kalhiltna base camp so you are not doing so bad.

Thanks for the advice! Also, I have map & compass skills. I majored in Geography after all

EDIT: omg at the Denali comment.

OK. Sounds like I am probably in the middle on the ethics question. I think a beginner should always climb with a buddy. And I still think taking a day to do a warm up climb the day before you try Shasta would be time well spent. But Avy Gulch is a beginner route. There will be lots of beginners up there with you. I have heard crazier things. If you can find a party that doesn't mind you tagging along I think you will be fine. Some objective comments:

This is an early season climb. This will be good for a beginner because there should not be too much ice through the Red Banks. Any falls should be easy to arrest. And there should be relatively little rock fall below the banks.

The bad part of going this early is weather. Prepare for severe cold. Prepare for high winds. This spring in CA has been cooler than average, and that will likely continue through next week. A 20 degree bag is probably fine, but you will be camping on snow. Snow is cold. It is also hard. It is not like camping on soil. Do not go cheap on ground padding. Tent should be well anchored. If you have a down jacket, or can borrow one, take it.

UV exposure will be extreme, especially since you will likely be on snow from the parking lot.

You probably know this, but there is no "lake" at lake Helen. It is a moraine. The only water there is what you melt. make sure to melt plenty before you go to bed, and don't leave it out overnight or it will freeze.

Maintain at least 2 solid contacts - two feet plus axe in stake position - at all times. All crampon points must be in the snow. Avy Gulch is a French Technique route. And remember, walking on snow is like sleeping on snow. it is cold.

Glissading will be primo on your descent. Take your crampons off first.

And finally, consider renting a car. Shasta is in a very rural area, and the trailhead is a long way from the highway. Even with all the climbers this weekend, I don't think you can count on getting up there unless you have your own wheels.

I know some people that climbed Shasta that were in your situation, they had never used ice ax and crampons before, and they rented the gear from 5th season. Their biggest complaint was that the boots they had were inadequate, so the crampons kept falling off! They managed to use some duct tape to help keep them on. They also glissaded with their crampons on, which is very dangerous and probably the leading cause of injury on Shasta. I figure the only reason they survived was because the snow conditions were forgiving.

At 24 years old it might be difficult or really expensive to rent a car.

I recommend



Llama Trekking !

Recent snowfall + warm temps/sun = avalanche conditions. Keep an eye on Casaval Ridge, Azzy!

TheOrglingLlama wrote:I recommend



Llama Trekking !

lolololol

azzy,

Please read any one issue of "Accidents in North American Mountaineering" before you go. This is my general advise to all climbers, novice or not.

azzy,

You said you're looking for advice. There are people who spend a lot of time on this website, who post frequently, and try to act like they know what they're talking about, and are happy to give that advice, because they are bored, or just want to feel important to this “community”, or whatever, but in realty have no idea what they're talking about. Spend enough time on this site and you will figure out who these people are, and learn how to tune them out.

I am not the greatest expert on Shasta, but I have climbed the mountain twice, so when I give advice it is based on first hand experience and not on armchair analysis and opinions deduced from reading about other peoples adventures. I'm not trying to start a flame war or take “cheep shots”, I just want to remind you to take everything you read on the internet with a grain of salt, and assess the source of any advice you get. I suppose I'd be better off being less blunt about it in the future.

Honestly, with all the spray and drama this thread has produced, I wonder if a slight rephrasing of your question would have produced different results. I've seen a few threads with a nearly identical OP but with decent advice and none of the bullshit. Actually I can think of one major difference, you seem to have done at least some of your homework first, whereas most of the other posters want other people to do the research for them. You had a plan that you wanted to back up with some advice from people with first hand experience with the mountain and the response from some was to throw shit in your face. Awesome!

Oh yeah, you need to be 25 to legally rent a car in California, but I think you could fly into Oregon (Medford perhaps?? which is much closer) and rent one there. Honestly, I think your lack of transportation may be your biggest issue.

Yo Azzy!
If you got skis, bring 'em! If you are a semi-legitimate skier/boarder, Avy Gulch is a mellow run in spring conditions (just start early and shred down late morning-midday, the hotter the earlier!) and will offer you a HUGE advantage by decreasing the total time at higher elevations significantly. Plus, hard to be bummed if you do decide to turn back early (the mountain will still be there for a return someday if so) when you pull into the parking lot after shredding >4000 vertical (maybe as much as 7500!) of perfect summer California corn! For a little bit more entertaining run from up high, check out the 35deg Trinity Chutes.
Don't mind the naysayers, prove them wrong by having a go but only under the conditions that you turn about once things get questionable! Find a steep embankment with minimal hazards at the bottom, grab your axe, take a leap and learn to stop yourself. Ice tool skills or rescue bills (play on words originally stated by our man J.B.)
Have fun! Take lots of Pics!

Hey Azzy,

Sounds like you've read a lot about your trip and planned extensively. My only advice is: ask yourself, if you were truly ready and confident in your plans, would you be asking an internet forum for help? If the answer is yes, then go ahead. If no, then reconsider.

-spazzy

SpazzyMcgee wrote:Hey Azzy,

Sounds like you've read a lot about your trip and planned extensively. My only advice is: ask yourself, if you were truly ready and confident in your plans, would you be asking an internet forum for help? If the answer is yes, then go ahead. If no, then reconsider.

-spazzy

Well, I am somewhat of a worrier, so I figured any extra tips and tricks wouldn't hurt, and I certainly received some valuable information via this thread and private message. I truly want to increase my chances of success and I wanted to see what my blindspots were. Knowledge is power.

I admire your ambition, but I can't believe that you put up a title with "novice" and "solo" in the title and actually expected people to be very supportive. Those two terms don't usually go well together. Yes, everything could go fine, you summit, and have a great adventure. Or, something could go terribly wrong and we could read about you in Accidents in Mountaineering: 2011.

You can't learn and be competent in mountaineering skills from what you saw on YouTube. You need to learn these things in person, with someone there to critique your "practice," and show you how to do it better. You won't have that feedback. I know this is the 21st century, but some things still can't be learned online in a coffee shop.

That being said, since it sounds like you're dead set on doing it, don't bother with asking for advice. The best advice you're getting is to stay home, but you don't want that. The next best advice: seriously evaluate your situation at all times, and the moment you think you may be in over your head, turn around. Those of us with experience turn around all the time, but it's a lot easier to know when you're getting into sh** when you've been there before.

Good luck, and God Speed!

Kris

(My apologies to all if I'm just repeating. Didn't have time to read all the replies!)