PNW in Oct

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Washington and Oregon. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Pacific Northwest Climbing Partners section.
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bird

 
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PNW in Oct

by bird » Fri Sep 25, 2009 10:19 pm

So business may take me to Seattle around the weekend of 10/24. I'm sure the weather can vary, but any thoughts for a fun climb? I could be free friday afternoon through the redeye sunday night.
Would be up for anything from 5.7ish trad to Rainier (again) and anything in between. North ridge of Baker has some appeal...
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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billisfree

 
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by billisfree » Sat Sep 26, 2009 2:57 am

A month ago, Mt Rainier was heavily crevassed above Camp Miur... rangers were putting ladders across some of them. It's probably still doable.

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Mark Straub

 
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by Mark Straub » Sat Sep 26, 2009 3:41 am

I'd stay away from Rainier...it's dangerous this time of year, especially after such a hot summer. Sloan Peak was beautiful last weekend, very good condition, but such a long and tiring (albeit beautiful) approach!

It's rock climbing season!

If you want to hook up for some cragging on Sunday, or you can't find a partner/trip, I'm looking for a partner for Index, I plan on leading some 5.7, and I could follow harder.

-Mark

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by cbcbd » Sat Sep 26, 2009 5:37 am

Talked to a guy recently who attempted the N Ridge of Baker a couple weeks ago and the regular snow ramp to get to the ridge is out. A lot could happen between now and Oct but I wouldn't go up any crevassed routes with minimal snow cover. I could rattle off tons of ideas but end of Oct weather could be so variable that objectives could change a lot based on that.
Forbidden, Stuart, Dragontail...
If the rain starts then rock cragging options will be in Leavenworth and areas E of the Cascades - crap weather all over the Cascades and just head into Vantage/Frenchmen's Coulee

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bird

 
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by bird » Sat Sep 26, 2009 12:49 pm

How about Washington Pass? Liberty bell, etc? In mid-late October?

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ExcitableBoy

 
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by ExcitableBoy » Sat Sep 26, 2009 3:48 pm

bird wrote:How about Washington Pass? Liberty bell, etc? In mid-late October?

Those are good choices so long as the snow has not started falling yet.

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bird

 
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by bird » Sat Sep 26, 2009 4:47 pm

ExcitibleBoy wrote:
bird wrote:How about Washington Pass? Liberty bell, etc? In mid-late October?

Those are good choices so long as the snow has not started falling yet.

Cool, so I'll keep an eye on the weather, if still dry, I'll plan on those.
How about if there's some new snow on the ground? Any "fall classics"?

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by ExcitableBoy » Sun Sep 27, 2009 6:55 pm

bird wrote:How about if there's some new snow on the ground? Any "fall classics"?


Look into NE Face of Eldorado. That would be a good choice assuming the road is open. They have been doing construction to fix a bridge.

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bird

 
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by bird » Mon Oct 05, 2009 2:23 pm

How about the Tooth and/or Ingalls North peak south ridge?

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ExcitableBoy

 
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by ExcitableBoy » Mon Oct 05, 2009 3:22 pm

bird wrote:How about the Tooth and/or Ingalls North peak south ridge?

The Tooth is a sure bet anytime of year. Ingalls might be a good choice as well. These are both 1 day climbs.

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bird

 
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by bird » Mon Oct 05, 2009 4:42 pm

ExcitibleBoy wrote:
bird wrote:How about the Tooth and/or Ingalls North peak south ridge?

The Tooth is a sure bet anytime of year. Ingalls might be a good choice as well. These are both 1 day climbs.

For a weekend they might be fun...or the Kautz on Rainier. Now I need to line up a partner and watch the weather.

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nickmech

 
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by nickmech » Tue Oct 06, 2009 1:41 am

High pressure weather for the next week. Clear and mild. Time to be here is right now bird.

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Mark Straub

 
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by Mark Straub » Tue Oct 06, 2009 5:25 am

bird wrote:How about the Tooth and/or Ingalls North peak south ridge?


Both very fun day trips.

EDIT: Sloan Peak Corkscrew Route is a great route too this time of year! Long and lots of elevation gain (6,000 feet) though.

-Mark

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by Alasdair » Tue Oct 06, 2009 11:21 pm

cbcbd wrote:Talked to a guy recently who attempted the N Ridge of Baker a couple weeks ago and the regular snow ramp to get to the ridge is out. A lot could happen between now and Oct but I wouldn't go up any crevassed routes with minimal snow cover. I could rattle off tons of ideas but end of Oct weather could be so variable that objectives could change a lot based on that.
Forbidden, Stuart, Dragontail...
If the rain starts then rock cragging options will be in Leavenworth and areas E of the Cascades - crap weather all over the Cascades and just head into Vantage/Frenchmen's Coulee


FYI: the N Ridge of baker was climbed in the last two weeks. Its in difficult conditions, but its not out. The Colman Demming is fine with the exception of an icy Roman Wall.

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