Gary Schenk wrote:Winter ski trip over Piute Pass. Bad storm hit. You can imagine what that was like. Separated. Dulley found dead next day by Clyde. Dulley was a good climber and strong skiier. I've seen his name in at least one register.

Peter Kinloch's team, who you've been attacking here, made a stronger effort to save him than Clyde did with Dulley, and at a much higher elevation. This by Clyde's own account.

I look forward to your rationalization.

Chief, your wrecking havoc with my piano practice, and today is Robert Schumann's birthday.

Ah, where did I ever attack Kinloch's team????

I am attacking the entire Big Mountain Expedition $$ Machine as a whole.




According the article of April 17th, they were separated due to the freak big ass storm. Once Clyde realized that they were apart, he immediately retraced his steps and later found Dulley, dead. How can that be in any way shape or form characterized as an abandonment?

"This article announces funeral services for William C. W. Dulley, who was frozen to death in a blizzard near Piute Pass on April 8. "He had gone with Norman Clyde", says the article, "from Andrews Camp over the pass and attempted to make an ascent of Mt. Humphries. When the blizzard struck, the two men started back toward Bishop. As they neared the snow line Clyde suddenly found himself alone. He retraced his steps and discovered his companion lying dead in the snow. The body was recovered on the following day", concludes the report."


Besides, 1935 in the High Sierra and 2010 on Everest are two completely different worlds. First off, no radios, Sat Phones etc back then to communicate with.

No rationalization cuz it weren't no abandonment. Clyde did in fact assist in the return of Dulley's body for a proper burial.

The Chief wrote:
I am attacking the entire Big Mountain Expedition $$ Machine as a whole.

Don't you work for them? Maybe the only person in this whole thread that does this professionally? I don't get this. Fight with the boss today? Fired? You said in "What are we doing" that you were going climbing today. What the fuck happened?

kevin trieu wrote:so you didn't see the size of the boulders for yourself? it was more the size of school buses. thanks for your concern though. i was really just doing you and your clients a favor by clearing all the loose rocks. didn't you go go up the same chute the next day after we came down and gave you the map and beta?

which peak did you climb that's higher than Whitney?

Oh, I saw them boulders with my binocs!

No, I didn't go up that chute per say. Our ascent up Starlight two days later went up a variant chute to the left which is actually on more solid and stable rock.

Elbrus in '96 and Blanc on several occasions. Like it really matters.

John Duffield wrote:

The Chief wrote:
I am attacking the entire Big Mountain Expedition $$ Machine as a whole.

Don't you work for them? Maybe the only person in this whole thread that does this professionally? I don't get this. Fight with the boss today? Fired? You said in "What are we doing" that you were going climbing today. What the fuck happened?

Don't do Big Mountains and the boss knows it. Just local stuff where the clients actually have to participate in the entire journey, all of it. The loads are equally distributed and just as heavy as mine etc and they have to actually climb when on technical stuff.

Besides, the Boss does all the Big Stuff and in most cases, with one maybe two clients max.

And yes, I did climb today for a couple of hours. I don't have to drive no ten hours to climb... 15 minutes up the road and I am on several 2-3 p .10's & .11's. 20 minutes up the road and I am at 10K and in a totally Alpine environment.

The Chief wrote:Don't do Big Mountains and the boss knows it.

You guide in the Sierra, so you calling the Sierra small mountains? Dude! Dude!! That's a slap in the face, punch in the gut and kick in the balls all at once.

This thread is in desperate need of this:

The Chief wrote:You're right. Who is "Chris" then?

This is another dude that got screwed over by his guides?

By what Radson story shares, this whole Everest thing is really getting pathetic. Guides losing track of their clients.... what the hell is going on on that hill???????

Radson... who is Chris?

I have not spoken to Chris but I do know him and I expect he would not say he was screwed over by his guide. It is my understanding that the way IMG runs their Everest trip for most that choose to go with them is that it is not a strictly guided expedition in the sense that there is is one western guide for each climber for the duration of the trip or on summit day. All the IMG clients are aware of this arrangement and I know this from personal experience in the Himalaya with IMG. They had several different types of programs on Everest this year, including one option to have a personal sherpa for the duration of the trip, which is what it looks like Chris signed up for (as indicated on the IMG website). I am certain that on summit day each climber, no matter which IMG program they were on, would have had a personal sherpa accompanying them up the mountain. So, there was no one western guide who being paid to be by Chris' side on the mountain

It isn't clear to me why Chris's sherpa was not immediately present when Radson approached Chris. Maybe he was trying to contact one of the other sherpas or guides to get assistance with the oxygen mask. Maybe Chris had sent him up or down the route to fetch help. Perhaps there was a breakdown in the link between Chris and his sherpa. I simply do not know. But there could be a number of plausible and innocent reasons why Radson did not see anyone around when he approached Chris. Simply blaming a guide service is not that simple.

btw, Chris is an experienced high altitude climber having attempted Everest once before, summiting another 8,000 meter peak, and having a first ascent on 6,000 meter peak in Tibet.

kevin trieu wrote:You guide in the Sierra, so you calling the Sierra small mountains? Dude! Dude!! That's a slap in the face, punch in the gut and kick in the balls all at once.

Hey, according to some of these Big Mountain Dudes here on SP, Damien, they are just miniscule tits on the land and not worth any ones effort and are easy ass hills to hike up.

Bob Sihler wrote:This thread is in desperate need of this:

Hey Margaret, hope life is good back in WA.

yeah, i was going to mention that the Mike Herbert staying at the Courtyard Hotel was remarkably life-like for a ghost.

Notoco wrote:Hi people,

Mike Herbert is NOT dead ! I was there with him all the time.
He got sick (HACE) at about
8500 m just below South Summit on 23 May but was successfully rescued and then taken to Kathmandu hospital by helicopter from C2 on the 25 May-see AJ dispatches.

Regards-Margaret

Vitaliy M wrote:I lost over 1100 calories and you guys increased this thread only by one page...how pathetic...wtf am I going to read at work tomorrow?

Nothing from me for the next couple of days. Starting a new FA project and checking on finishing another. .10c to possibly .11a 5-7 pitches. Looks like fun with good pro and a variety of climbing.

See ya... it's been fun conversing with all you altitude ladder climbers & 02 inhalers.

Dear The Chief,

Why don't you do us all a favor and let us all know what outfit you guide for.

Thanks,

Zeth

If tragedy ever strikes me in the mountains, I've made my best friends promise to put something on Summitpost so that The Chief can make sure that they know where I went wrong, where I was at fault, and what he thinks should have been done about it. I couldn't live with myself thinking that if anything terrible were to happen to me, that The Chief wouldn't be able to get his two cents in. What's more, I made my family promise to read what The Chief has to say about me (a stranger to him) and my carelessness/recklessness/irresponsibility/unpreparedness/ignorance/bad luck (oh wait, there's no such thing as bad luck). The Chief, my life will have all been in vain if you, the holiest of guides in the whole Sierra do n ot pass judgment on me and my outdoorsiness. Just please leave my pet duck out of it.

ZethKinnett wrote:Dear The Chief,

Why don't you do us all a favor and let us all know what outfit you guide for.

Thanks,

Zeth

Why don't you do us all a favor and come out from hiding behind that dumb and weakass avatar and let us know who you really are. Had you been around for any length of time, you'd know the answer to this question.

ZethKinnett wrote:If tragedy ever strikes me in the mountains, I've made my best friends promise to put something on Summitpost so that The Chief can make sure that they know where I went wrong, where I was at fault, and what he thinks should have been done about it. I couldn't live with myself thinking that if anything terrible were to happen to me, that The Chief wouldn't be able to get his two cents in. What's more, I made my family promise to read what The Chief has to say about me (a stranger to him) and my carelessness/recklessness/irresponsibility/unpreparedness/ignorance/bad luck (oh wait, there's no such thing as bad luck). The Chief, my life will have all been in vain if you, the holiest of guides in the whole Sierra do n ot pass judgment on me and my outdoorsiness. Just please leave my pet duck out of it.

Here is the only judgment I am passing on your careless dumbass...Very weak trolling Toxo.