I will be in Yosemite starting August 2 and staying for about a week. I'm going with some occasional hikers who never climb and only one knows how to belay a toprope so I need a few suggestions on topropes in the Valley close to the campsites if possible. I don't know if this exists but if I can find a way to climb there I am going to even if its a short toprope.

I don't think I'll have a chance to lead climb but does el Cap have any good routes where the first pitch is either free or aid or both but could be rapped with a single rope? I can't help but be interested in climbing at least one pitch on it. Just a start to climbing the whole thing.

I know a few people who climb Yosemite a lot but I figured more opinions couldn't hurt. Any suggestions would be great.

The supertopo guide to Yosemite Valley has a section on topropes. One obvious example is the left side of Swan Slab, near Camp 4 -- you can walk up and set an anchor on a tree, but be sure to back it up with gear. The area is popular with YMS guides, so get there early (and also to beat the August heat !)

I think there is a toulmne guide dedicated to topropes if you are going to be up there at all.

I'm assuming you don't have a guide, which is why you're asking. There's the Supertopo suggestion, plus Chris Falkenstein (who wrote the Tuolumne TR guide) also wrote a guide to Valley topropes. Used to (and may still be) in the Mountain Shop. If it's not, just go to Swan Slab. Right next to Camp 4 and lots of stuff to do.

If your belayers are as inexperienced as they sound, I wouldn't bother doing anything at the base of the Captain. Most things (if I remember correctly) are more than half a rope length and it doesn't sound like your friends will be up for (nor should be) catching a possible leader fall. If in doubt, just boulder.

Ya, there is a Tuolumne Topropes book, not sure of the availability -



http://www.amazon.com/Tuolumne-Topropes ... 1892540126

It's ok ..but the newest Tuolumne supertopo guide (published last summer) also has a pretty good list of toprope-able climbs. Pothole Dome and Puppy Dome come immediately to mind .. Lembert Dome and Western Front have some possibilities also, among others.

In August I would be far more interested in driving up to Tuolumne to climb instead of the Valley anyway, because of the heat. Save your Valley climbing time for spring and fall.

You can climb in the Valley in Aug. no problem. Just stick to the shade or mornings/afternoons. People act is if the Valley in the summer time is hotter than the surface of Mercury. It can get hot but, as evidenced by all the people who still climb there duing the summer, it's still completely doable.

Sure, people climb in the Valley in the summer .. it's just frickin hot usually. The elevation is only 4000-ish feet, so 100F degree temps are not unusual.

If you are going to be there and can't get to someplace like Tuolumne I can certainly understand. But if given a choice I'd go someplace higher and cooler that time of year. YMMV

Best quickie climbing: Bouldering around Swan Slab, east of Camp 4.
Best TR for NEWbs: The first 30-40 feet of After 6. On "Ranger Rock" (Manure Pile)
Best 3rd Class scramble: Sierra Point (see beta on this site)

Yes, Plenty of short climbs all around the base of El Cap.

SpiderSavage wrote:Best TR for NEWbs: The first 30-40 feet of After 6. On "Ranger Rock" (Manure Pile)

Umm, you may want to try this in the middle of the night---any other time in the summer and you'll have scores of teams and soloists ranting, cursing and climbing over you. Get to Swan Slab early, or perhaps the left side of Church Bowl. (Aunt Fanny, Uncle Fanny & CB Lieback will be a lot more casual.)

Umm, you may want to try this in the middle of the night---any other time in the summer and you'll have scores of teams and soloists ranting, cursing and climbing over you. Get to Swan Slab early, or perhaps the left side of Church Bowl. (Aunt Fanny, Uncle Fanny & CB Lieback will be a lot more casual.)

+1

Last I was there, a line was well established at the base of the route- it's quite popular for how slick the SOB looked (wouldn't know, did After Seven to pass a group flailing up the dihedral).

Dude, it's gunna be HOT when you go, unless you get really lucky. Haul a chalk bucket up as you send to soak your hands in between moves.

Swan slabs is your best bet...After Six will be too crowded, and the first pitch is not even close to worthy of setting up TR in my book...You would have much more options in Tuolomne...

Don't know how this hasn't been mentioned, but given the criteria, you must do Pine Line- perfect .7 finger crack, also happens to be the 1st pitch of The Nose. Great protection with small to medium-sized cams, or you could just protect the whole thing with offset nuts. Bring some long slings/cordelettes to TR from. You can also TR some .10s to the R of Pine Line with the same line too. Start early, or you'll be waiting.

As stated, Swan Slab is THE beginner's place to climb anything in Yosemite. Again, start early or get in line. Get a copy of Supertopo's Yosemite Free Climbs to see the myriad options that exist there. Fun popular lines are Swan Slab Gully (or is it Chimney- the one that EVERYONE gets on there). Penelope's Problem is a sweet hand jam fest, & Hanging Flake is quite fun too (leave some directionals in). If you had 2 ropes, you could do Claude's Delight around to the R (someone would have to lead it first- .7), then TR neighboring Lena's Lieback, a fun .9 lieback.

First pitch of After Six is excellent (.7), as well as After Seven (.8 ). Someone would need to lead those. Rappel from the tops of those.

Want to see a beginner grunt, struggle, squirm, & most likely hate you afterwards? Put 'em on Uncle Fanny (it's only a 5.7, after all), & get the video rollin'!

Haven't done it, but have heard that Sunnyside Bench is supposed to be a great beginner's moderate multi-pitch.

Have fun.