Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
...would be appreciated. Particularly Valley climbs, single or multi-pitch. How is the correlation with Higher Cathedral's NE buttress? Looking at the ST topo, the sections that appear to offer the most 'excitement' are- Wilson Overhang, The Narrows (looks terrifying), & the '.10b flared slot' below The Narrows (sounds burly). Experiences, advice, beta appreciated- thanks!
The 10B overhang isn't that hard if you attack the roof (steep but good pro). I saw a soloist just squeeze up the corner there, though.
The 5.8 DMT refers to below the Narrows is rated 10B in the Taco (and felt kinda sketch).
The Narrows are good training for the Harding Slot on A-man.
Google Yosemite Hardman Offwidth Training Circuit if you want a road map of OW fun to get you in shape.
One thing to keep is mind is how well you fly up 4 inch cracks. You don't need anything bigger than a #4 for the route, but it's the money piece. You'll use the hell out of it, often moving it up if you bring only one (the smart way to do it, I think).
Let us know how it goes. Best done when the days are long, though.
ps -- Early on (P4, I think) you have a choice between a 5.9 squeeze chimney and some run-out 5.8 climbing. Do NOT take the squeeze. My partner did, flailed in the thing for a long while before admitting she had never climbed a squeeze before (it was our first route together). I took over the pitch but it was more work than anyone should do without getting paid (I wasn't on the clock that day). The exit move was tight enough that I was pretty sure my pants weren't coming out of the hole with me. The 5.8 looked like cake.
Had a very pleasant conversation with Allen Steck at the John Fischer celebration of life event in Bishop Saturday . He has always been a remarkable person !
Thanks for the suggestions, Mike. Haven't been on SP for a couple of days, thus the delayed response. Off to struggle on some Valley off-widths for the weekend. Fun!