I am this climber and here is the link to my report what really happened and how I got out.
Falling in a crevasse on Hotlum Glacier, Mt Shasta
by clmbr » Sun Sep 23, 2012 7:11 am
by Jesus Malverde » Sun Sep 23, 2012 9:46 pm
by AlexRts » Mon Sep 24, 2012 2:50 pm
by clmbr » Mon Sep 24, 2012 3:48 pm
Jesus Malverde wrote:Clmbr,
Very glad you are still with us in this world. We seem to get a little "wiser" after those crevasse "experiences" huh? Glad to see that you are not growing tired of that mountain. I hope you see many, many more Shasta summits.
ten cuidado
AlexRts wrote:What were you doing jumping around crevasses both unroped and without a partner nearby?
by Skateboards2Scrapers » Mon Sep 24, 2012 4:07 pm
by Vitaliy M. » Mon Sep 24, 2012 5:47 pm
clmbr wrote:AlexRts wrote:What were you doing jumping around crevasses both unroped and without a partner nearby?
Practicing.
by clmbr » Mon Sep 24, 2012 6:25 pm
Vitaliy M. wrote:clmbr wrote:AlexRts wrote:What were you doing jumping around crevasses both unroped and without a partner nearby?
Practicing.
What sort of a glacier travel skill were you practicing ALONE on a broken up glacier while jumping over a large opened crevasse? Sounds like something extremely careless, again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlaBehEZ ... u.be&t=47s
by AlexRts » Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:20 pm
clmbr wrote:Being roped not necessarily makes you safe but that is a very vast and controversial topic, with various opinions.
by Vitaliy M. » Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:33 pm
clmbr wrote:What matter is I did not see this coming, had no backup plan in case something goes wrong, did not even consider using the other ax, was overconfident. And I am ashamed of that. This was indeed a dangerous move.
I’ve been traversing more complex and more broken up glaciers and climbing "reasonably" steep slopes alone for years and need to practice various techniques in various conditions in "reasonably safe" environment because some other times there is no time for practicing, just Implementation. You climb much worse stuff. Being roped not necessarily makes you safe but that is a very vast and controversial topic, with various opinions.
by mrchad9 » Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:40 pm
by Skateboards2Scrapers » Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:41 pm
by Skateboards2Scrapers » Mon Sep 24, 2012 9:03 pm
mrchad9 wrote:PellucidWombat has a good deal of experience with the consequences of taking on additional risk in the Cascades. Would be good to get his perspective on this.
by clmbr » Mon Sep 24, 2012 10:09 pm
Skateboards2Scrapers wrote:WHY DIDN'T YOU BRING YOUR GOPRO BRAH? Gonna go back up and do a re-enaction with multiple frames of view, the go-pro, and bad narration next?
by Diggler » Tue Sep 25, 2012 1:24 am
by clmbr » Tue Sep 25, 2012 6:00 am
Vitaliy M. wrote:. . .
Crossing a glacier roped to one-two other competent partners never been controversial- it is a norm.
Vitaliy M. wrote:. Would for sure help you if you broke/severely injured yourself in this fall. Even if they did not get you out (even though competent partners should have no problem with that) they would be able to get help...
Vitaliy M. wrote:. To be honest, when I first saw your posts on the Bay Area Mountaineering group looking for partners to climb Shasta/Whitney in a storms I was a bit shocked.
Vitaliy M. wrote:Even though Shasta and Whitney are CA 14ers, they still kill multiple people every year.
Vitaliy M. wrote:As climbers we should be READY to deal with situations, but we should NOT put ourselves in these dangerous situations on purpose.
Diggler wrote:The repeated lapses in judgment demonstrated here are extraordinary. While the entire incident is exceptional, perhaps the thing that's most exceptional is that it seems quite possible, from the self-analyses expressed in the story, that nothing was learned... If anything, I think that some things deserve scrutiny, so that other inexperienced glacier travelers don't fall into the same hole (pun intended).
Diggler wrote:At first I was shocked of why it happened because in my mind I did everything correct and it seemed to be easy and feasible to do.
The fact that this happened in the first place might be a good place to start self-analyzing whether or not the whole self-glacier crossing without a partner/walking over "questionable" snow bridges thing is a good idea or not- a lot of people might conclude that it was NOT a good idea upon falling into a crevasse.
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