Hello All,

On Mt. Adams last year I rented a pair of crampons from the guide company my partner and I used. This year, I decided to get my own pair. I got a new pair of Petzl Sarkens with the LeverLock system (as an aside I was so paranoid last year of my crampons falling off in the dark for some reason....)

I'll be paring the Sarkens with my pair of La Sportiva Makalu boots. The pair of crampons I rented last year were Vasak, and they fit just fine- based on what I've read, I believe the Sarkens will work just fine with the Makalu boots as well. But I'd thought I'd ping the experts to be sure.

Thanks!

The rear lever will work with the Makalu, and I see from your blog post you opted for the version with the plastic 'basket' toe piece. This combination should work fine with your Makalus. The Makalus are a half shank boot, really too soft for steep snow/ice/or alpine climbing. Better for backpacking and very moderate mountaineering. The Sarken is designed for alpine/ice climbing. This doesn't mean the combo won't work, but you won't be able to get the full performance out of the Sarkens that you are paying extra for (that is over and above the cost of Vasaks or Irvis). If you decide to take up waterfall climbing or technical alpine climbing, you will eventually want a stiffer boot.

Also, I noticed you have plans for Shuksan. In my mind Shuksan is the epitome of the North Cascades climbing experience. Big, rugged, clad in hanging glaciers and stunningly beautiful. Every route requires glacier travel, route finding, ice climbing, and rock climbing and a not especially easy descent.. It also has very reasonable access and approaches by Cascades standards.

I don't know what route you are planning, but IMNSHO, Fisher Chimneys is one of the best moderate alpine routes in the Cascades. A Sunday stroll of an approach, lots of moderate scrambling in the Chimneys (some folks belay sections), an outrageously situated and comfortable bivi below Winnie's Slide, steep ice gaining the Upper Curtis glacier and then again through Hell's Highway and a final rock pyramid. Eschew the loose central gulley system opting instead for the Sw ridge (skyline on climber's left) for a more solid, exposed, and technical finish. Bring three small Lowe Tricams and #.4, #.5, and #.75 Camalots or other cams in similar sizes if you want to belay the ridge, or any pitch in the Chimneys. The Sulphide Glacier will get you to the top, but is not as interesting as Fisher Chimneys.

Thanks @ExcitableBoy, I really appreciate the detail.

A number of folks have recommended the Fisher Chimney route, but our guide (who, after having guided my partner and I up Mt Adams last year, I trust immensely) has said that for beginners, Sulphide is our best bet. He also recommended that assuming we like it, we follow it up next year with the Fisher route.

On the boot, I'm curious on your opinion of which boot might be a step up from the Makalu- understood on the "moderate mountaineering" classification, what would you recommend as a better boot, one that is full shank but well suited for moderate-esque alpine climbs.

I read more on your blog, sounds like you will have an opportunity to learn and practice glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques on Shuksan so the Sulphide will be an ideal route.

The Makalu is a fine boot, very well constructed and suitable for moderate glacier and scrambling routes. I would only consider getting a bigger boot when you are planning to do steeper, more technical ice/mixed alpine routes like Liberty Ridge on Rainier, North Ridge of Baker, North Face of Shuksan, waterfall climbing, winter mountaineering, etc. If La Sportiva fits your foot, the Nepal Top Evo really can't be beat. It is taller, stiffer, warmer (insulated), and has a full shank. Expensive, but if you clean it, dry it, and wax it after each big climb it will last many, many seasons of hard use.
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