Crampon and boot advice needed! [A plea]

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MoapaPk

 
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by MoapaPk » Thu Jan 21, 2010 7:58 pm

As you probably know by now, the back welt on those boots is designed for snowshoe bindings. I also suspect the soles may be stiffer than most people here realize. I have a similar-looking pair of Columbia boots, which I also bought on sale, and they take strap-on crampons (e.g. G10s) well; though you might have to cut depressions in the boot heels to get the boot heels to fit between the crampon posts. I'm not going to say your boots are great, because they are not here where I can do my hard-to-quantify flex tests with my own hands.

Here's an issue to consider with any "winter mountaineering" boot system: unless you wear some sort of vapor barrier over or under your socks, these boots can be unpleasantly wet and cold on the inside on the second day of your trip. Judging by your profile picture, "winter mountaineering" probably also means winter camping for you. In particular, the Columbia boots have breathable cloth on top of primaloft, and it soaks up sweat like a sponge.

If you are thinking of getting stiff boots so you can use burly crampons, you better also be thinking about the ice axe you want. I would put that purchase way ahead of super-duper boots. My apologies if you have already done that part.

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climberslacker

 
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by climberslacker » Thu Jan 21, 2010 8:09 pm

Yup, I have an Ice axe, wich i think is more important in a lot of situations then crampons. Crampons can get you in a bad situation quick if you don't know what you are doing. An Ice axe, however, can make sure you dont have a looooong..errr... unplanned glissade. So I have a BD Raven ice axe

-CS

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Mark Straub

 
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by Mark Straub » Thu Jan 21, 2010 10:53 pm

I use Kayland MXT boots with G-12 Newmatic crampons, and they work great together! I have used these boots for rock climbing, ice climbing, and mountaineering, and they are the best boots I've ever used. They are over $200, but I got them used from a member of Summitpost. REI garage sales can carry good boots for cheap, and keep an eye out on Craigslist as well. Fit in a boot is extremely important, though, so don't buy a boot you will hate just because it was on sale.

-Mark

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climberslacker

 
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by climberslacker » Fri Jan 22, 2010 1:41 am

To add insult to injury on this topic, I found that these crampons are fairly secure on my DRESS shoes! Come on north face! I know you like looking like you know what you are talking about, but DRESS shoes are doing better then you right now DRESS shoes! That I got at famous footwear. DRESS SHOES!

-CS

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Gafoto

 
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by Gafoto » Fri Jan 22, 2010 3:19 am

People have ascended Mt. Whitney in far more ridiculous things.

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DanielWade

 
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by DanielWade » Fri Jan 22, 2010 3:44 am

Why would you assume a product would work for something it was not designed for?

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brokesomeribs

 
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by brokesomeribs » Fri Jan 22, 2010 4:35 am

climberslacker wrote:Yup, I have an Ice axe, wich i think is more important in a lot of situations then crampons. Crampons can get you in a bad situation quick if you don't know what you are doing. An Ice axe, however, can make sure you dont have a looooong..errr... unplanned glissade. So I have a BD Raven ice axe

-CS


Wrong. Crampons are much, much, much more necessary. I don't think you've ever been out on steep snow or ice yet.

I'm not trying to insult you, but I'm pretty sure I'm right.

Listen to all the kind folks here who have been climbing longer than you've been alive. We're trying to keep you alive long enough to actually have a chance to use that shiny new ice axe you've got.

And yeah - you bought winter hiking boots. Not technical mountaineering boots. They were never designed to fit newmatic crampons. To then bitch about your newmatic crampons not fitting is.... a bit silly.

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Pallando

 
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by Pallando » Fri Jan 22, 2010 8:10 am

brokesomeribs wrote:
climberslacker wrote:Yup, I have an Ice axe, wich i think is more important in a lot of situations then crampons. Crampons can get you in a bad situation quick if you don't know what you are doing. An Ice axe, however, can make sure you dont have a looooong..errr... unplanned glissade. So I have a BD Raven ice axe

-CS


Wrong. Crampons are much, much, much more necessary. I don't think you've ever been out on steep snow or ice yet.

I'm not trying to insult you, but I'm pretty sure I'm right.

Listen to all the kind folks here who have been climbing longer than you've been alive. We're trying to keep you alive long enough to actually have a chance to use that shiny new ice axe you've got.

And yeah - you bought winter hiking boots. Not technical mountaineering boots. They were never designed to fit newmatic crampons. To then bitch about your newmatic crampons not fitting is.... a bit silly.


I've used my axe way more than my 'pons. Just my $.01.

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sushiman

 
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by sushiman » Fri Jan 22, 2010 3:08 pm

have you tried looking at madrock alpinist boots?
they fit me well, although some people have had problems with them. (but who dosen't with boots) And at about 175.00, the price is good too

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MoapaPk

 
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by MoapaPk » Fri Jan 22, 2010 5:25 pm

Gafoto wrote:People have ascended Mt. Whitney in far more ridiculous things.


The first winter ascent of Denali was with Mickey Mouse boots and strap-on crampons without front points.

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kevin trieu

 
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by kevin trieu » Fri Jan 22, 2010 7:13 pm

What size are your feet? Might be able to help you out if you have size 8 feet.

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climberslacker

 
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by climberslacker » Sat Jan 23, 2010 1:31 am

I appreciate the help. I have been out on steep ice, once, and would have appreciated an ice axe much more then crampons there, or the snowshoes I was wearing. And I wasn't trying to bitch about anything, I just thought that they worked and then when they didn't I asked for creative solutions, which I found, its called ebay.

yes i am a mountaineering newb, I am also a Newb at life, but have been climbing technical rock for 7 years, and leading trad for one and some change.

-CS

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dskoon

 
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by dskoon » Sat Jan 23, 2010 3:36 am

DanielWade wrote:Why would you assume a product would work for something it was not designed for?


There ya go!
Not sure I've heard anyone suggest trying some strapon crampons, probably your only choice if you really want to use those boots.
Otherwise, take other's advice here, do a bit of research, and get real boots for the intended purpose. . .

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kiwiw

 
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by kiwiw » Sat Jan 23, 2010 4:41 am

brokesomeribs wrote:
climberslacker wrote:Yup, I have an Ice axe, wich i think is more important in a lot of situations then crampons. Crampons can get you in a bad situation quick if you don't know what you are doing. An Ice axe, however, can make sure you dont have a looooong..errr... unplanned glissade. So I have a BD Raven ice axe

-CS


Wrong. Crampons are much, much, much more necessary. I don't think you've ever been out on steep snow or ice yet.

I'm not trying to insult you, but I'm pretty sure I'm right.

Listen to all the kind folks here who have been climbing longer than you've been alive. We're trying to keep you alive long enough to actually have a chance to use that shiny new ice axe you've got.

And yeah - you bought winter hiking boots. Not technical mountaineering boots. They were never designed to fit newmatic crampons. To then bitch about your newmatic crampons not fitting is.... a bit silly.


I'm pretty sure your wrong, I never wear crampons without an ax, unless I'm walking on a gentile slope that I can't slide on. (pretty much never)
If you fall and slide with crampons and you don't have an ice ax your totally fucked, likely breaking ankles in the best scenario.

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climberslacker

 
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by climberslacker » Sat Jan 23, 2010 8:03 am

Also, on the crampon vs. ice axe debate, It is entirely possible to do many climbs without 'poons by chopping steps and the like.

-CS

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