by deathzonescience » Mon Apr 07, 2014 2:41 pm
by Alberto Rampini » Mon Apr 07, 2014 3:13 pm
by deathzonescience » Mon Apr 07, 2014 3:28 pm
AlbertoRampini wrote:What route? Ferrari or French Direct? Anyhow, i advise to plan two-three days more for a correct acclimatization and to have a reserve-period in case of bad weather.
by Woodie Hopper » Mon Apr 07, 2014 4:12 pm
by deathzonescience » Mon Apr 07, 2014 4:30 pm
Woodie Hopper wrote:I have a few questions for you first:
What moderate/high alititude experience do you have?
Where do you live?
Do you plan any acclimitization shortly before you leave?
Will you be taking Diamox?
Is your short itinerary out of necessity, or can you book a longer trip?
Woodie
by Woodie Hopper » Mon Apr 07, 2014 5:01 pm
by sharperblue » Mon Apr 07, 2014 5:26 pm
deathzonescience wrote:Alpamayo rapid ascent expedition is planned for mid July. This is a private expedition with myself and a very experienced Peruvian Andes climber. Thoughts please regarding limited acclimatization time and other potential pit falls of this itinerary?
1. USA - Lima
2. Lima - Huaraz
3. Huaraz to Corral Camp
4. Corral Camp to base camp
5. base camp to moraine camp
6. moraine camp to col camp
7. col camp to summit to base camp
8. base camp to Huaraz
9. Huaraz to Lima.
by deathzonescience » Mon Jul 21, 2014 3:28 am
by brichardsson » Tue Jul 22, 2014 10:18 pm
deathzonescience wrote:no acclimatization before trip
I will be taking diamox 250 mg bid starting the morning I leave from US to Lima.
by deathzonescience » Wed Jul 30, 2014 12:28 am
bscott wrote:deathzonescience wrote:no acclimatization before trip
I will be taking diamox 250 mg bid starting the morning I leave from US to Lima.
awesome. drug aided climbing. what, could you not get bottled oxygen? too bad they just can't install elevators to summits.
by brichardsson » Wed Jul 30, 2014 2:51 am
deathzonescience wrote:Acetazolamide is a great option for objectives of 6000 meters on a tight acclimatization time frame. All glaciated high altitude objectives are 'aided' in some form, wether it be aided with ice tools, crampons, specialty boots, synthetic clothing, anchors, ropes, down bags, tents, stoves, head lamps, sometimes O2 etc.....Why do you disagree with Diamox? Can you provide evidence that your climbs are un--'aided'.....all natural?.....ya douche bag.bscott wrote:deathzonescience wrote:no acclimatization before trip
I will be taking diamox 250 mg bid starting the morning I leave from US to Lima.
awesome. drug aided climbing. what, could you not get bottled oxygen? too bad they just can't install elevators to summits.
by herdbull » Wed Jul 30, 2014 6:33 pm
by Buz Groshong » Wed Jul 30, 2014 8:56 pm
by Josh Lewis » Thu Jul 31, 2014 4:49 am
by Buz Groshong » Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:09 pm
deathzonescience wrote:Acetazolamide is a great option for objectives of 6000 meters on a tight acclimatization time frame. All glaciated high altitude objectives are 'aided' in some form, wether it be aided with ice tools, crampons, specialty boots, synthetic clothing, anchors, ropes, down bags, tents, stoves, head lamps, sometimes O2 etc.....Why do you disagree with Diamox? Can you provide evidence that your climbs are un--'aided'.....all natural?.....ya douche bag.bscott wrote:deathzonescience wrote:no acclimatization before trip
I will be taking diamox 250 mg bid starting the morning I leave from US to Lima.
awesome. drug aided climbing. what, could you not get bottled oxygen? too bad they just can't install elevators to summits.
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