I have no climbing resume or anything like that, but I have summited MidPal twice. The hardest part to me was finding the spot where you leave the glacier to ascend the face, which with fresh snow could be a slippery affair. The first time I was with a friend and the face was dry, The second time I was alone, but there was a lot of (spring) snow in the chute, the broad chute you ascend when you leave the glacier. The snow did not feel solid, so I moved left and ascended the rib that bordered the chute. That worked out just fine. Middle Palisade is an awesome mountain, certainly one of the best. And I understand about having kids, but there are many other peaks that this late in the season would probably be a better choice. Mid Pal and Disappointment have A LOT of loose rock, which with new snow would make harder to determine what is loose and what is solid. Anyhow, the best to you in whatever you decide.

edited: several years ago I went to CO to ascend the Bells. I flew to Aspen, got an expensive room, and it snowed two feet that night! So I wound up ascending Castle and Conundrum instead. So I understand, but you also need an alternate plan if the weather goes to pot.

fogey wrote:None of my business really, and I don't know what you look for in a climb, but it seems like the main thing you're committed to is a 2- or 3-day climb within driving distance of San Francisco.

If this is the true defining characteristics of the trip, and a 14er is desired...what about Shasta? Clear Creek should still fit the criteria.

A different way to exit Middle Pal.

https://www.facebook.com/KMPHFOX26/vide ... =2&theater

I went to Middle Palisade last weekend. We did not summit; but it still was a great trip. On day one we went to the little lake just above Finger Lake. From the trip reports and such I did not realize the climb up the rock pile above Brainerd Lake was so steep and long. It was really an impressive climb. I do not think there are any real places to camp at Finger Lake. There were some flat spots; but these all seemed to be delicate meadow grass and really close to the water. We camped up at 11,200 ft. It was quite cold. I would guess in the low 40´s when we arrived. It snowed overnight, so it must have dipped below freezing. We climbed up around the right side. At the next plateau we hit knee deep snow. The travel was really rough. Skip rock to rock, ok. Take a step between rocks, sink in past the knee. Or worse, sink in and then crack your shin on a rock below the surface. I had never travelled in this type of snow, and I took it as a learning opportunity. We made it to the chute entrance; and this is where it ended. I actually stopped short a bit while my partners checked it out. Option 1, the mythical diagonal ledge was not visible. But, snow on the glacier made any travel out there treacherous. Option 2, climb up the rocks with rope and gear, was kind of dangerous too. We went back down to camp and were greeted with a hail storm. We probably made the right decision to come down. I had a great time with good friends and it was a good way to end our climbing season. I am sure we will be back there next July.

Also, the weather link provided by Cameron, above was good. The mountain forecast site was really off. To the end it was predicting minor rain showers on Friday and clear skies on Saturday. It was not even close. I saw maybe a slight trace of blue skies for about 10 min. total, the whole time up there.

It's good to hear your report, you did the right thing. Yes, there really is a class 3 way up from the top of the glacier, but not when it's snowy. My experience in the high Sierra is that when a peak is snowy, you bump it up at least one class, (ie, class 3 becomes class 4). The best example I can think of is the east ridge of Russell; when it's dry it's class 3, but when it's snowy, it's at least class 4. I would Put Mid Pal in the same category (class 3 in summer, but cl 4 when the fall snow arrives). Anyhow, at least you got out on your own, had a great time, that's the most important thing. Be sure to memorize the spot you came up (from the glacier) so you can find it for the way down when you return next summer. That's a mistake I made the first time I went to Mid Pal, me and a friend forgot where we came up and it was a bit hairy getting back down. But in all my Sierra sojourns, hundreds of peaks, I was never, ever rescued. And a bear never once got my food. When you are truly in tune with the Sierra, it is a fantastic place, certainly one of the best places on earth.

Awesome. Thanks for letting us know how it went. Even if you don't summit, any day in the mountains is better than a day at the office. As a well known climber once said, "It doesn't have to be fun, to be fun".

I would not want to be on that peak in winter. I was in the Palisades last January and saw a massive rock avalanche coming off the ridge. Anyone caught in that would've been history for sure. Freeze/thaw + loose rock is trouble. Good you turned around.

Ian McEleney & Jed Porter made the first full winter traverse of the Palisades from Feb.26 to Mar.2 .2013 .Their report & pictures are online. Jed sent me a photo of a register note I placed in 1979.

A traverse in winter? Damn, that's impressive! Far beyond my skill level and risk tolerance, that's for sure.