I've had a bit of a good-spirited running debate with some of my buddies over which specific mountaineering objective would be harder. Car to car solo of Disappointment Cleaver on Rainier, or car to car solo of all three Tetons (Grand, Middle, South) via Owen Spalding on the Grand then the north ridge of the Middle? Here's the backstory: I have lots of Teton mountaineering experience and they have lots of Rainier and Pacific Northwest experience, which has produced our (obvious) biases. I have never climbed Rainier, they have never climbed in the Tetons.

So, here are the stats:

Rainier via Disappointment Cleaver:
Peak Elevation 14410
Elevation Gain: 9000+
Mileage Round Trip: 18+
Primary Technical Challenge: glacier travel, crevasses

Teton Traverse:
Peak Elevation: 13,770
Elevation Gain: 10,300+
Mileage Round Trip: 19+
Primary Technical Challenge: low grade (5.5-5.6) technical rock climbing and big exposure

Obviously, comparing these is a little bit of an apples and oranges situation, since each is very different from the other. On paper, they're fairly similar. The Tetons have the edge in total elevation gain and mileage, but Rainier wins in elevation above sea level, and probably presents more weather-related challenges.

I'm talking about taking everything into effect: physical endurance, requisite skill, mental toughness, overall exposure to total cumulative hazards etc... All that being said... Which is would be more difficult? Personally, I say the Teton traverse, but I've never climbed Rainier. Obviously, they claim Rainier, but we both agree that it's a close race. Remember, either must be done in a single calendar day.

Thoughts?

I'm not at all an experienced climber - more a hiker and scrambler. I have, nevertheless, been up both Rainier via Emmons Glacier (a 10,000' gain) and the Grand via Exum Ridge (a 7,000'? gain). I agree they are very different experiences and I can't pick a favorite (having been to both parks three times), let alone decide which is tougher. One thing that may affect the way Rainier feels though is that, despite the route you mention being "only" a 9,000' gain, that is all pure elevation gain above the starting point. The Grand is "only" 7,000' above the starting point, with the other two peaks being lower. Even though the cumulative total for them is more, that extra 2,000' of un-acclimated pure elevation gain in one day is going to have an impact that may negate the total gain advantage for the Teton peaks. Doesn't answer the question, but it does bring up another variable you may not have considered.

I haven't done the traverse, but I have done the Grand in one day via the upper Exum and Rainier by the DC. I think the Teton traverse is harder, just different since there's no glacial travel involved (with different hazards).

Def the teton traverse...I did the Grand by itself in one day and thought that was hard enough! I think Rainier in a day would be harder than just the grand tho

Keep in mind though that although going solo on the teton traverse is ok...soloing Rainier is just plain stupid.

I have climbed Rainier and have friends who have done it in a day and claim it wasn't too bad...they were roped up though in a team of 2.

Glaciers are one thing I NEVER solo on

I've done all of these. The Tetons would be harder, more up and down and more technical (DC is really just a steep walk), but the DC would be more dangerous because soloing on a glacier takes no skill, just luck. I agree with Matt. I have more glacier experience than most and always insist on being roped on active glaciers. Some of the finest alpinists in the world have died in unroped crevasse falls.

I agree with Matt and EB --- but I will add this. Certain folks have an affinity for snow/glaciers/slogs/altitude/cold and others have an affinity for ropes/trail runs/rock/death marches/etc... I think it really depends on the person. Very few people would be good at both, so they'd obviously slant towards what they are good at... I think.

No fair, your putting Rainier up against three separate peaks. If you get to play that game, Rainier get's Little Tahoma as it's tag team member.

In somewhat of a reversal, I've done the DC in a day, but overnighted to do the Upper Exum. DC took about 13 hours car to car. For the Grand (only) we were on our feet for about 12 hours. Had to wait for others on both climbs. I'm probably the same level of experience on snow and rock (old duffer).

http://www.splattski.com/2002/peak_week/rainier.html
http://www.splattski.com/2009/tetons/index.html