I'm asking this because I already think I know the answer.

At REI, I found this:
http://www.rei.com/product/729596
5mm "accessory cord." My friend who I generally trust on these kinds of things said it wasn't too thin to be used as Cordelette, but after purchasing it, the size and lack of advertisement cause me to question using this as an anchor.

As far as lifesaving pieces of gear, when I question it, the answer is always "no." Just affirming this with you guys, unless several respectable and knowledgeable members say it's fine.

I have no worries using 5mm perlon for prussiks or rappel anchors, but for building anchors secure against the hypothetical factor-2 fall, I'd go for something thicker.

Not spectra. Suitable for prussiks, not anchors.

Pallando wrote:I'm asking this because I already think I know the answer.

??

I belive that if you use standard nylon accessory cord 7mm dia is a norm for a cordellete.

This is interesting.

5mm - 5.7kN
7mm - 11kN
caribiner - 20 - 25kN
C4 cam >.5 - 14kN

In an anchor, each strand of cordelette is doubled, so the strength is doubled as well. So assuming a 25% reduction in strength with bends and knots, you would have:

5mm - 8.5 kN
7mm - 16.5 kN
caribiner - 20 - 25kN
C4 cam >.5 - 14kN

So the 5mm cordelette would be weakest link in an anchor. But realistically, the rock quality and peice placement would probably be the limiting factor.

Accessory cord is regulated by UIAA standard 102, which is also CE 564. The standard says that accessory cord must have a minimum breaking strength (MBS) that depends on the cross section of the cord. The rule is this: Take the square of the diameter given in mm, and multiply it by 0.2 to get the MBS in kN. For a 7 mm cordelette, 49x0.2 = 9.8 kN. For 5 mm accessory cord, 25x0.2 = 5 kN. The cord one buys from manufacturers like Sterling or Bluewater typically exceeds this minimum rating by 10-20%. The MBS of accessory cord is tested on a single strand.

Slings are regulated by UIAA standard 104 (CE 566). The breaking strength of slings is tested on a loop and should exceed 22 kN. Tape is regulated by UIAA standard 103 (CE 565). The standard prescribes that the MBS be at least 5x(number of stripes) kN. For instance, three stripes (the usual case) means 15 kN. The MBS of tape is tested on a single strand.

Slings, accessory cord, and tape do not have maximum impact force requirements the way dynamic ropes do.

squishy wrote:

Dingus Milktoast wrote:
Shoulda bought this one dude:
http://www.rei.com/product/716962

DMT

Well obviously, it glows in the dark...and it's blue...I think it's the red ones which break all the time...

Naw, it's the red ones that get pulled over by the rangers all the time