What do you use for a cordelette length? Assuming you are using it for equalizing an anchor (2 points), what do you usually leave the house with? I know it depends on some factors, but a safe bet if I was going to get some cord? Diameter of 7mm? Thx

queasy wrote:What do you use for a cordelette length? Assuming you are using it for equalizing an anchor (2 points), what do you usually leave the house with? I know it depends on some factors, but a safe bet if I was going to get some cord? Diameter of 7mm? Thx

Depending on what you climb? Bolts or trad gears? If your climbing crag is mostly bolted anchors, then two double length sewn runners will do the job. If you do mostly trad gear at belay, I would put in at least three pieces and carry with me a 20ft 7mm cordelette. Sometimes I bring two in case my second doesn't have one and I have to have for the next anchor.

thx for the replies. figure around a 30ft 7mm might be a good start, and those runners are something i havent thought of but seem like a nice option (although pricey). would expect to use this with bolted anchors at this point versus setting up trad anchors. im looking for something usable as well as to practice with, from setting up anchors to pulley systems to knots, etc so cordelette is a bit more functional than a runner. Does the runner lose strength when tied with a figure 8? Shouldnt be an issue for equalizing anchors on two points, but just a thought.

Ditto. You don't need 30ft of cord for your anchors, especially you climb in bolted anchors area. Those sewn runners should be part of your normal climbing kit anyway unless you are a pure sports climber.

queasy wrote:What do you use for a cordelette length? Assuming you are using it for equalizing an anchor (2 points), what do you usually leave the house with? I know it depends on some factors, but a safe bet if I was going to get some cord? Diameter of 7mm? Thx

My cordelettes are 20 feet x 7mm -- a pretty standard length. Obviously it's up to you though.

For two bolts you can double it over so it isn't so long, or just use something like a double-length (48") sling.

I always build my anchors with 3 points, it's a lot safer.

I had a 30-foot 7mm cordelette, but it was too long to be practical for what I do (basic trad and alpine). I cut it to 20 feet, and now it's perfect. I also have a web-o-lette, which I really like. It's only 10 feet long, but because of its sewn eyelets at the end, it gives me as much length as a 20-foot cordelette would. And it weighs next to nothing. Expensive, though, and I had to order it by phone.

-Mark

squishy wrote:They say 18 to 20 feet works fine, but those guys sometimes take two...I take one cord at 30 feet in case I need the length and I have used it at full length. With one 30 footer I take some of the new sewn runners which work great for what your talking about...here's some...

http://www.rei.com/product/751490

They have 8 foot, and like 12 or 14 foot ones too...very lightweight, very expensive, but way cool...they work great for multi-pitch anchors, alpine climbing or a spare lightweight cord...

I received one of these as a gift and it now accompanies me on all trad routes. It has replaced my 18 ft x 7 mm cordelette. Highly recommended.

cuz I am a noob. I am looking for advice, I dont know the answers. I want something that could be used to setup anchors for TRing at sites that dont have bolts, something that could be used to equalize anchors on bolted routes, and something that i can practice with on knots, and whatever else may come up as i learn.

I see the point of the runners being much simpler, but cant use those for building TR anchors among other things (that I know of). I thought a decent length (maybe my estimate was too long) would be better.

queasy wrote:cuz I am a noob. I am looking for advice, I dont know the answers. I want something that could be used to setup anchors for TRing at sites that dont have bolts, something that could be used to equalize anchors on bolted routes, and something that i can practice with on knots, and whatever else may come up as i learn.

I see the point of the runners being much simpler, but cant use those for building TR anchors among other things (that I know of). I thought a decent length (maybe my estimate was too long) would be better.

Again, it really depends on where you climb and what you intend to climb.
For TRing, if the cliff has bolts or anchors are closed to the edge, then just pad the end with a t-shirt or carpet, and those runners work fine. If there are not bolts on the cliff, and the anchors are far back, then you probably need static line or webbing (much cheaper) instead of cordelette which won't be long enough anyway.
For trad climbing, a 30ft cord is usually too long anyway since your belay anchors are usually fairly close together.
I'm not as experienced as some of the climbers here on the board, but I haven't found anything that required a 30ft cord. 20ft is usually more than enough.

Grab a 20-foot 7mm cordelette and a few 9-foot 1" tubular webbing slings and you should be fine.

-Mark