Pico de Orizaba Climber's Log

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Wheelbarrow

Wheelbarrow - Feb 5, 2018 10:02 pm Date Climbed: Jan 22, 2018

First time out of the country

Trouble securing a rental car in Mexico City for 2.5 days so had to rush the summit push. Didn't sleep well so opted to forego the alpine start to not risk my livelihood in lieu of aiming for a new high record–15,500 feet! I'll be back.

sbkelley

sbkelley - Jan 10, 2018 1:32 am Date Climbed: Jan 3, 2018

Ruta Sur  Sucess!

Joining this list of those modified climbing plans from Jamapa to the Ruta Sur this year due to route conditions, but glad we got to see this side of the mountain. Scree slog is tough on the way up - especially right below the summit - but fun on the way down. Great sunrise and sunset views, and a wonderful all-around experience!

mfox79

mfox79 - Jan 8, 2018 8:13 pm Date Climbed: Jan 3, 2018

Ruta Sur  Sucess!

The Jamapa Glacier was pure ice so we decided to climb the Ruta Sur. Fun scrambling and loose rock. overall time was 5 hours up and 2 hours down. Slight headache at the summit but a great summit with amazing views. I hope to get on the Jamapa Glacier some day.

wdimpfl

wdimpfl - Dec 22, 2017 4:10 am Date Climbed: Dec 28, 1970

Orizaba from Tlachichuca  Sucess!

Date approximate. On the recommendation of Arlene Blum I organized a trip to climb the volcanoes in Mexico. Will Spiegelman and Urs Kuhnlein joined me. We drove from the San Francisco Bay Area to San Diego, walked across the border to Tijuana, flew Aeromexico to Mexico City, took the bus to Tlachichuca, Hired Sr. Reyes to drive us to the hut at ~14,000 ft, and started the climb at about 3 AM. Without being acclimatized I counted 15 breaths per step near the summit. I had breathed so hard and my epiglottis had become so flexed that it painfully folded back into my throat when I swallowed.

brackham - Nov 3, 2017 8:35 pm Date Climbed: Mar 19, 2017

Like a Dream  Sucess!

First international climbing trip with Ashley, Gabe, and Amy. Everyone summited and no one got sick.

Beautiful conditions on the glacier and just a little more windy than we would have liked. Started out from camp at 12:30 am, summited just after 8 am, and made it back to camp around 3 pm, exhausted. A stray dog met us on the trail and followed us all the way to the summit.

The hike up during the night felt like a dream, especially the trail of headlights on the glacier.

Mark Vaughn - May 17, 2017 7:12 pm Date Climbed: Apr 10, 2017

Malinche Orizaba and Oaxaca  Sucess!

We climbed Malinche and Pico de Orizaba and then whent to Oaxaca, guys... totally worth it!! We did it with a company called SeeMexico.com where you can find different trip variations. We chose Orizaba and Oaxaca as we wanted to travel further. We climbed on April 2017 and the conditions where very good

Arrival Day:

We started Mexico City airport, where they picked us up, and took us to our inn for the night.

Day one, Malinche climb:
We woke up ahead of schedule, took the auto and headed to La Malinche where we did our first climb, which certainly helped get acclimatized for our Pico ascent. We finished the day at Tlachichuca, Mexico in a lodging owned by the locals (Canchola family), which is ok.

Day Two, Acclimation day:

Rodolfo and Daniel, our guides drove us to Pico the Orizaba Base camp where we made a two hour hike to further acclimatize. After the hike, we had lunch and supper and we essentially relaxed ourselves for the rest of the evening.

Day Three, Climbing day:

We began climbing at 1:45 am. Making a beeline for the Jamapa Glacier, which we came to at around 4:00 am. There we geared up and headed towards the summit (Local experienced guise, Ice Ax, crampons and rope are 100% required).
For what is worth Pico the Orizaba psychologically affects execution. It is dubious to see the summit all the way from the base until you reach it, as this makes you feel you are not progressing and can cause you to become desperate.

Once on the glacier, we climbed four more hours with a few short breaks until we reached the edge of the crater where we were finally got hit by the sun; However, the crater is more less thirty minutes away from the summit, where you can at last celebrate with your companions and guides.

The path down is exceptionally steep, I recommend going down utilizing the left side of the mountain, facing downwards (the right part, facing downwards, is extremely steep). I took us around six hours to get to the base camp (the aggregate climbing time was around 12:00 hrs).

Once at the Base camp, I was physically and mentally exhausted but our guides Rodolfo and Daniel gave us a Sandwich to boost our mood and thus, were prepared for Oaxaca, an absolute must after Orizaba.

Day Four and Five, Oaxaca Mexican Experience:

Once they took us to Hierve el Agua, which is a set of incredible petrified falls, we visited the arts and crafts market, ate at local restaurants, walked through ancient Zapotec ruins, we even learned how the Mezcal was created and of course we tasted it.

Day Six, Puebla and Cholula:

After two evenings in Oaxaca we took the van towards Mexico City stopping at Cholula, which is one of the greatest pyramids on the planet with a church at the top; Moreover, the view is quite fabulous as it has two of the greatest Mexican volcanoes directly behind it.

Day seven, Hasta la vista amigos

Last but not least, I would like to highlight Mexican food is fantastic and worth trying. Some of the dishes we recommend are: Mole, Tlayudas, Gusano de Maguey worms, which genuinely taste great, Mezcal, Esquites, and of course Tacos.

Unquestionably a remarkable excursion in Mexico. Yes, I would like to mention their portal www.seemexico.com for a remarkable trip & awesome guides.

gimpilator

gimpilator - Feb 20, 2017 10:35 pm Date Climbed: Jan 10, 2017

My 2nd Time! :)  Sucess!

I spent a month climbing volcanoes. Orizaba is agreat mountain and worth climbing twice.

Other peaks I bagged on this trip include...

Mexico:
Volcán La Malinche, Cofre de Perote, Volcán Iztaccíhuatl, Pico de Aguila, Nevado de Toluca, Cerro de Ombugo, Pico de Humboldt, Nevado de Colima, Cerro Tancitaro

Guatemala:
Volcán Pacaya, Volcán Tajumulco (country highpoint, 24th most prominent peak on earth), Volcán Concepción, Volcán Tacaná (2nd highest in Central America), Cerro Chemal "La Torre", Cerro Chemal "Cerro los Cuervos", Montañas Peña Blanca, Volcán Santa María, Volcán Atitlán, Volcán Acatenango

Costa Rica:
Volcán Poás, Volcán Barva, Volcán Irazú, Cerro Chirripó (country highpoint, 36th most prominent on earth), Cerro Piramide, Cerro Terbi, Cerro Buenavista

Trip report with photos

Smokieshiker

Smokieshiker - Jan 8, 2017 8:06 pm Date Climbed: Jan 4, 2017

Orizaba solo  Sucess!

Recap of my solo summit of Orizaba. Had great weather. Full trip report with videos can be found here. http://southernhighlanders.com/new/2017/01/09/orizaba-and-the-mexican-volcanos-summits-sun-and-snow/

skorpeo

skorpeo - Dec 13, 2016 11:18 pm Date Climbed: Dec 29, 2014

Perfect Day  Sucess!

I acclimated for two days on top of Pikes Peak in Colorado(4200 metres). This really made the summit day much easier. Great Peak.

Yulia Zi

Yulia Zi - Nov 30, 2016 1:02 am Date Climbed: Nov 16, 2016

Ukrainian Girl on the top of Pico de Orizaba  Sucess!

The highest and most difficult climb for me so far. Yes, it was not technically challenging indeed, but as you climb your first ever 18,000+ peak and also seriously hit by AMS for the first time ever, I count this one as a miracle. I stood on the top of Pico de Orizaba and wanted to cry from happiness together with my climbing partner Alex. Very little we knew, AMS will strike even harder on a way down with the change of the pressure of a rapid descent.

Challenging, but so-so satisfying. Dr.Reyes fed us a nice dinner after our 16+ hours adventure. We recovered and climbed Izta two days after.

gordonye

gordonye - Nov 24, 2016 1:41 am Date Climbed: Nov 22, 2016

Jamapa Glacier route  Sucess!

Climbed with Samantha, Louie, and Mike Chen. Good snow conditions and perfect weather. Took us 8 hours to ascend, 2.5 hours to descend with some glissading. Went with two guides from summitOrizaba. Hated the icy steep section of the Labyrinth.

silver13 - Nov 16, 2016 2:01 pm Date Climbed: Mar 15, 2016

Pico De Orizaba  Sucess!

Longest summit day for me ever! Started at 2AM from the Hut, Summit at noon and returned to the Hut at 7PM. Whole glacier was full of hard penitentes. Tough day but worth it!

xDoogiex

xDoogiex - Nov 3, 2016 2:12 pm Date Climbed: Oct 20, 2016

First high altitude summit  Sucess!

Good times.report posted

utclimber - Oct 16, 2016 4:34 pm Date Climbed: Feb 15, 2004

Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!

First attempted in December 2000(?), but turned back due to a lenticular cloud over the summit. Successful second attempt a few years later.

seancau

seancau - Sep 2, 2016 5:18 pm Date Climbed: Nov 6, 2015

Beautiful Orizaba  Sucess!

Got a shared 4x4 from Tlachichuca with Sr. Reyes, then immediately hiked up to the labyrinth where I set up high camp at 4,750m. In hindsight I should have spent a night at the Piedra Grande Hut (4,200m) first, suffered badly from altitude sickness - headache, loss of appetite, very little sleep. The following morning started early (3:30am). The Jamapa Glacier seemed neverending, but somehow I found the energy to make the summit (9am) - an incredibly beautiful place - and was briefly the highest person in North America!

youngclimer123

youngclimer123 - May 22, 2016 3:11 am Date Climbed: Dec 20, 2015

sunrise at 18000feet  Sucess!

stayed in tlachichuca at casa conchola and got a ride with them to the hut. the place had a few parties and was not very crowded. decided to spend a night at high camp above the labyrinth. summited at 6 am to watch the sun rise.

sroot

sroot - Apr 3, 2016 4:51 pm Date Climbed: Mar 28, 2016

Beast of a mountain  Sucess!

Flew into Mexico City on my birthday (25th) and reached the Piedra Grande hut by the 27th and summited about 7:15 AM on the 28th. I completely underestimated the effects of altitude and it was an incredibly hard push for me but completely worth it! Beautiful morning with perfect conditions.

ericd

ericd - Feb 12, 2016 1:22 am Date Climbed: Feb 9, 2016

High altitude club  Sucess!

Flew into Puebla just 36 hours before standing on top of Orizaba, this was awesome! The climb was a rewarding experience after postponing it over the last few years. A mountaineering challenge physically but cardio-conditioning ahead of time allowed me up this North American giant in 6 hours for a 9am summit. A grueling 2000' glacier push to summit and I renewed membership in the bona fide high altitude club. Wonderful to enjoy the panoramic views in a thin atmosphere at 18, 490 feet! After 30mins atop and somewhat replenished from the step climbing exertion I decided to head down, the descent taking 4 hrs, very true to a 2/3'rds rule of thumb. The climbing day had gentle wind & weather considering the uncertain forecast and condensation from the west coast eruptions. OMG provided excellent base logistics.

seano

seano - Jan 2, 2016 11:50 am Date Climbed: Dec 27, 2015

Ruta Sur  Sucess!

We climbed the Ruta Sur because you can get a rental car to 13,200' instead of about 11,000' on the standard route. About 3h40 up and 5h30 car-to-car in completely dry conditions on a clear but windy day. I highly recommend this route because, while it is a slog on the way up, the scree-ski on the way down is absolutely epic. See the diagram in my trip report for the best lines up and down.

MadGrad96

MadGrad96 - Oct 9, 2015 8:16 am

Loved it!   Sucess!

First international trip and experience above 14,500. So much fun!

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