Pico de Orizaba Climber's Log

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jmarkham - Nov 14, 2012 2:32 pm

Orizaba  Sucess!

After acclimitization on Popo and overnight at a high hut we all made it but separated into two groups, the slower staying with a member who I felt should never have come up because of a persistant cough that had developed. He was very stubbornly wanting to summit and did, later, after some of us quickly decended due to an incoming storm. I'll never forget hearing and almost feeling my iceaxe zinging where I'd stowed it between my back and daysack. I prayed the rest of the gang up on the summit would not be hit as I almost ran down the peak. Fantastic experience.


Daria - Sep 22, 2012 2:53 pm Date Climbed: Dec 27, 2011

Awe-some!!!!  Sucess!

With Matthew Sharples. Absolutely memorable memories-stayed with a good friend and biology student in mexico city, then we got to stay with a local Mexican family at the base of Pico de Orizaba, (they had a vacation home there), they even drove us up pretty close to the piedre grande hut for free in their truck. As well as taking us out to the Casa Blanca, it was their treat. What a generous kind family!! It was a joy to have experienced such authentic cultural exchanges vs. the standard disengaged tourist planned routine that most climbers do.

Dayhiked from Piedre Grande hut, summit experience was enhanced by a special "summit ritual" of some local climbers I shared the summit with. We barely were able to understand each other, but we they still managed to get me involved in their ritual and we ended up laughing, celebrating, and taking pictures/videos. The summit ritual was pouring snow on top of my bare head while I kneel down on one knee with hand on ice axe. Surreal and amazing experience and great bonding time with the locals! What a special treat to have experienced this. We then descended Pico de Orizaba to the east, down the jungles and hitched a ride with some locals down the many jungle towns back to Orizaba. The rest of my trip I toured the beautiful mexican Pacific coast to scout out future kayaking trips.

Nyle Walton

Nyle Walton - Apr 6, 2012 4:40 pm

Re: Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: January 21, 2003

I ascended this mountain fifty one years before you did. I did it on the south side. There was no guide service nor hut to sleep in back then. I shared the mountain with no other party other than my divine companions, Jesus and Moses.

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Mar 21, 2012 12:51 am Date Climbed: Mar 15, 2012

Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!

Fantastic climb on N. Americas 3rd highest! after a couple days to acclimate at the hut at 14,000 feet.


cab - Mar 5, 2012 3:15 pm Date Climbed: Mar 2, 2012

Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!

One day ascent from Piedra Grande after acclimitizing on La Malinche and Iztaccihuatl. We left the hut at 1am with perfect conditions that continued all the way to the summit.

Following the trail up to the labyrinth and making our way through the labyrinth in the dark wasn't too dificult (we actually took a worse route on the way down in full daylight). The lower glacier was a little sloppy even though it was still dark out, but conditions improved the higher up we went.

The sun came up just before we made the crater rim and began a spectacular day with perfect weather and no wind. We took a few pictures at the summit and headed down for a 10-hour RT.


krrt2000 - Feb 26, 2012 9:18 pm Date Climbed: Nov 27, 1987


Went with two single guys that wanted to party and not acclimate (Steve and Jeff). Made 16,000 ft. not prepared, another time. Had a great time though, Veracruz was awesome.


DrewB - Jan 17, 2012 11:55 pm Date Climbed: Jan 1, 2002

Great memories  Sucess!

Much more straight forward than I imagined. The only difficult part was the altitude.


Bill562 - Jan 15, 2012 10:07 pm Date Climbed: Jan 12, 2012

Second time is the charm  Sucess!

With Blair F from PG - Espolon de Oro up, Jamapa Glacier down


CastillejaMiniata - Jan 14, 2012 9:51 pm Date Climbed: Dec 28, 2011

Standard Jamapa Glacier route.  Sucess!

And then a descent into a remote east side canyon and to the tropics.


mreiter1 - Dec 11, 2011 2:01 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2008

Suceess  Sucess!

Standard Route


hunterslee - Oct 23, 2011 1:43 am Date Climbed: Apr 2, 2010

Slug to the top  Sucess!

Had great weather, the only downside was a trip to a not so good Mexican Taco stand a few days before. Yikes!


ssbclimber - Oct 8, 2011 2:12 am Date Climbed: Jan 23, 2009


Made it to 17,000 feet on the Jamapa Glacier. Ezra Danciu summited. Not sure if I was getting altitude sickness or just wiped out from little sleep camping just below the Labrynth the previous night. Lots of snow the week before our arrival as well. Senor Reyes was scheduled to pick up us at 3PM and I just didn't have the pace to get up and back in time. Met a couple cool guys from Minnesota though and WILL be back one day for redemption!


jef80 - Jun 13, 2011 6:11 pm Date Climbed: Dec 20, 2009

Jamapa Glacier   Sucess!

Perfect weather to climb this great mountain.


mjp20k - Jun 6, 2011 5:57 pm Date Climbed: Feb 7, 1997

Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!

Third time's the charm.


jck - Mar 23, 2011 7:32 pm Date Climbed: Mar 14, 2011

Jamapa Direct  Sucess!

Took the straight route up to top, just between Jamapa Glacier and Espolon del Oro, where the face is the steepest. Six hours to the top from Piedra Grande. Nice to be the only climbers on the mountain that day.
Perfect views from the top. The crater rim is really impressive.
Climbed with Radek (brade).


Deschamps - Feb 3, 2011 3:51 pm Date Climbed: Dec 12, 2010

Impressive Mountain  Sucess!

This was my second 5,000er (Izta was my first). I really enjoyed it, this volcano has beautiful sights and the weather was just amazing. We started at 1am and got to the summit a couple of hours after sunrise. It was a december 12th which is a religious holiday in Mexico (Virgin Guadalupe's day) so plenty of people was at the top with almost no gear!!, I felt almost ridiculous with mine but they climbed thru the south face route which is far easier with almost no ice. We hired the services of Mr. Joaquin Canchola for accommodation in Tlachichuca and transport to Piedra Grande's Hut, he knows a lot about the mountain and he's pretty easy going if you don't mind some swearing :P


SJ - Dec 22, 2010 7:47 pm Date Climbed: Dec 18, 2010

Sea level to summit in 81 hours  Sucess!

Not recommended unless you enjoy the following:

1) Sleepless nights
2) Heinous gas
3) Windburn


SkydiveKen - Dec 20, 2010 7:50 pm Date Climbed: Dec 18, 2010

Pleasant Surprise  Sucess!

A steady 20 mph wind from the start of the glacier to the summit. Except for some reason not the last 50 steps or so. No even the slightest breeze at the summit proper. Took some pictures had a bit to eat adjusted my gear and enjoyed the summit all to myself for 15 minuets - the warmest I had been all day. Was tempting not to nap.

tb00957 - Nov 28, 2010 3:37 pm Date Climbed: Nov 26, 2010

Orizaba  Sucess!

windy and cold, otherwise pretty straight forward.


graham - Nov 17, 2010 5:31 pm Date Climbed: Nov 12, 2010

Orizaba via the standard route

Richard and I started hiking ~2am and got up thru the snowy labyrinth and glacier and reached the summit just after sunrise to witness the amazing Pico pyramide shadow cover the Tlachichuc valley below. We got back to the hut ~11am and down to Tlachichuc around 1:30pm. Great day on Pico with great company on my new high point.

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