Pico de Orizaba Climber's Log

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JB99

JB99 - Mar 31, 2009 8:18 pm Date Climbed: Mar 18, 2009

Jamapa  Sucess!

2nd attempt, got turned back just above the labyrinth in January 09 due to weather. Returned with an added team member; Centrifuge and he and I made the summit. My fiance Jessica made 17,400 before turning around. Trip report here; http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/502179/Climbing-Orizaba-with-Nan.html

Pablohoney

Pablohoney - Mar 27, 2009 6:36 pm

Standard route  Sucess!

It was some time ago, but a great climb, lots of traffic trashing the huts and surrounding area, hope it's been cleaned up since I was there!

SawtoothSean

SawtoothSean - Feb 24, 2009 12:17 am Date Climbed: Feb 3, 2009

Good Weather  Sucess!

Climbed alone on a really nice late season day. Started at 3am, summitted at 8:20am, and was back to the hut at 11:30am. I saw only the Swiss guys that were in the hut. I never needed my Down jacket and only experienced cold on the glacier. The summit was windless and sunny. Still, my water froze up even in a bottle cozy, and I had to warm up my camera batteries. The glacier wasn't steep, but just long and never ending. Looking into the volcano crater was pretty amazing.

jef80

jef80 - Feb 3, 2009 3:56 pm Date Climbed: Dec 19, 2008

Standard Route  Sucess!

Great day with some cool SPers. Not much snow up there though.

Lips74

Lips74 - Feb 3, 2009 5:06 am Date Climbed: Jan 6, 2009

AMS on Orizaba

Climbed stronger than I had my entire Mexico trip but came down with AMS for the first time at 17,300ft. on the Jamapa Glacier. This was an extremely frustrating end to an otherwise enlightening trip. Thanks to my summit team who aided my descent. I will be returning next year.

Athos791

Athos791 - Jan 26, 2009 9:29 am Date Climbed: Jan 25, 2009

Almost...

Was not able to make the summit due to HAPE at over 16,000 ft. Conditions were very snowy, had crampons on from piedra grande. Cold on the mountain, we all had our down coats on at camp. Trip report coming soon!

Mike Mc

Mike Mc - Jan 21, 2009 9:46 pm Date Climbed: Jan 5, 2009

Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!

Bluebird Day!

benhil

benhil - Jan 19, 2009 9:14 am Date Climbed: Dec 28, 2008

Benhil  Sucess!

Wonderfull climb on Mexico's last ice, Hilde (my wife) was in an excellent shape and we did a fantastic 9 hour trip from hut to hut.
We had the great Lupe as a guide and he and his friends from Orizaba Mountain Guides are highly recommended!!!

MikeAndMarianne

MikeAndMarianne - Jan 10, 2009 4:56 pm Date Climbed: Jan 5, 2009

Epic Climb  Sucess!

My wife and I climbed Orizaba. This is the highest weve gone to date. The weather was perfect! The views outstanding. We went with Colorado Mountain School. There were two guides and two teams from our expedition. It was tough, but after 15 hours, we made it back down, having successfully making it to the summit!!

lefty

lefty - Jan 5, 2009 7:14 pm Date Climbed: Jan 1, 2009

New Years Day Climb  Sucess!

What a terrific way to ring in the new year by climbing the Jamapa Glacier. Perfect weather and good conditions made for a great climb.

LC

LC - Jan 2, 2009 9:51 pm Date Climbed: Nov 26, 2008

a great climb  Sucess!

Couldn't have asked for better weather. As someone else climbing down said, you could have lit a match on the summit that day.

skotty

skotty - Dec 29, 2008 12:59 pm Date Climbed: Dec 22, 2008

A good 1st high altitude peak  Sucess!

First peak above 14k+ ft. A great first high altitude peak a great first international peak. Not too technical in either respect but a great experience.

Mots010

Mots010 - Dec 24, 2008 8:46 pm Date Climbed: Dec 17, 2008

Standard Route  Sucess!

A fun big peak that is easily accessible and cheap! Conditions are icy through the labyrinth and the Jamapa Glacier is hard, but good for cramponing. Not good for self arrest however, so dont fall!

alphasteve

alphasteve - Dec 24, 2008 2:18 am Date Climbed: Dec 20, 2008

Trip of a Life time  Sucess!

Made it to the mountain via car from Utah. 4700 miles of driving, every second of driving totally worth it. Would have been better for my buddies to have more than 2 days to acclimate. Labrynth is not that complicated. Just look for good snow or ice and it is cake. The Glacier just never ends. so high. so awesome.

Curtissimo

Curtissimo - Dec 20, 2008 5:35 pm Date Climbed: Nov 26, 2006

2nd time was a charm  Sucess!

8 days away from having another baby, i left my wife and drove up to the village of Hidalgo where I parked my Rodeo with locals ($5/day) and walked up the 4WD route to avoid the racket in Tlachichuca. Planning ahead, not rushing, and scouting the route the day before (plus tagging along with a hard-of-hearing Angeleno, a suave Catalan, and an iron-lunged EspaƱola also helped).

Trick to beating elevation is peacful inner thoughts, lots of water, and consistent deep breathing. Very windy along crater ridge but serene on top. I have never been colder anywhere else I have been!

Curtissimo

Curtissimo - Dec 13, 2008 4:49 pm Date Climbed: Dec 31, 1998

failed first attempt

Turned back by biting cold, lost time on the icy "lengua" of the glacier, and a lack of foreknowledge of the route. With S. Wilcox & T. Straub of New Haven, CT. Would have to wait 8 years for another shot!

ScottyP

ScottyP - Nov 23, 2008 4:09 pm Date Climbed: Nov 21, 2008

First over 14,500!  Sucess!

Whew! Great day, great weather and a successful summit! My first time over 14,500 and felt great! TR coming soon. Thanks all for the beta and great reports to fuel my fire! Scott

Kiefer

Kiefer - Nov 20, 2008 3:01 pm Date Climbed: Nov 13, 2008

Jamapa  Sucess!

Yeah! What Rkymtn, Haliku and Chicagotransplant said!

rkymtn

rkymtn - Nov 18, 2008 5:01 pm Date Climbed: Nov 13, 2008

Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!

Climbed with chicagotransplant, Haliku, Kiefer Thomas, and two non SPers. The snow conditions were near perfect and we had a full moon to help light the way before dawn. Sunrise provided a phenomenal mountain shadow and some relief from the cold wind. We were the only ones to climb that day and relished in having the mountain to ourselves. This was a very enjoyable climb with great people and amazing views.

Haliku

Haliku - Nov 17, 2008 11:52 am Date Climbed: Nov 13, 2008

Via Jamapa  Sucess!

This was the main objective of our 9 day Haliku Adventures trip to Mexico. A full moon climb with a sunrise summit on perfect snow was worth all the work. All six of us made it in good time.

____________
20 Jan 2005
The worst part of this route is what we called the labyrinth, a maze of house sized rock ridges and boulders from the recently retreated glacier. The best advice is to stay on top of or to the left side of the far right ridge at 15,600 feet. Its not fun going but it'll get you to the glacier. The amount of retreat showing in photos from 4-5 years ago is amazing. The glacier will be gone soon if that rate continues.

A detailed trip report can be found here.

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