Beautiful windless day on the Jamapa Glacier.
Pico de Orizaba is a nice climb, since it's height offers relatively no challenge in regards to AMS, and it glacier is ideal for practicing some glacier climbing. Since I wanted to save time and I didn't speak Spanish, I paid Roberto Flores Rogriguez to organized my logistic off and on the mountain. The man is superb. He has been doing this for many years. He knows what he is doing. I even saw a well respected American company asking advices to him directly.
I will publish a trip report elsewhere on this site, including in my new Volcanic Seven Summits Facebook group. Serge
I will be getting to Piedra grande by the 22th. Hoping to make to Tlachichuca on the 21st. Anybody wants to climb there?
What a better way to spend the first day of the new year on the summit of the highest point in Mexico...
This was my second attempt at the summit of Orizaba. I attempted this route in Jan 2009 but was forced to turn back due to time constraints. This year we had impeccable weather and I was graced with a beautiful sunny summit with no wind. I was even able to take an hour nap on the crater rim. It was almost as if i were at the beach (if the beach was 18,500ft high and glaciated).
After a warm up on Ixta. We took on Pico. It was one of the windiest summits I've ever encountered, and although we brought all our technical gear it wasn't needed. Hauling all that stuff around Mexico for three weeks was the most challenging part. Trip of a lifetime though. I love Mexico. Not the Federallies though.
A bit breezy, not a good day for working on the tan.
Real nice climb.
June is not really season, which makes it great. Hut empty, nobody on the mountain. We had already slept at paso de Cortez and had been in mexico for a few weeks, which makes a difference in acclimatizing.
First day to the hut and light acclimatisation hike.
Second day hike up to the glacier in daylight to scout the route, which is confusing at times, but many possibilities, as long as you go up... 3rd day, on eother climber (Anabella from Spain) arrived with a guide and we ascended together. Leave at 2AM for summit, summit at about 7.30, enjoy the views for half an hour and back down at 10am.
Very recommended mountain, easily accessible and no permit or hut fees. You do need some basic glacier experience, or bring/hire a local guide.
We did La Malinche first to get acclimitized. That was easy and went well. Unfortunately we missed our bus to get to Tlaclica (spelling?)and lost a day. So we got on the mountain and had to go up the same day in order to make out flights home. Our team of 6 got split up. One decided not to attempt it. She was replaced with a woman from Austria who's partner had AMS. Three of the guys had later flights so opted for an additional rest day. So 3 of us went up. Things went well until I twisted my knee just as I was getting to the Labyrinth. I tried going on but it was too painful. Turns out I tore a Miniscus. I'll have to go again! to knock this one off the list.
Got to the ridge line but was not able to reach the summit. Regardless, it was worth it and I was proposed to at the top (I said yes!). Beautiful views.
As a first international climb I could not have dreamed of a more successful and beautiful trip!
2nd attempt, got turned back just above the labyrinth in January 09 due to weather. Returned with an added team member; Centrifuge and he and I made the summit. My fiance Jessica made 17,400 before turning around. Trip report here; http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/502179/Climbing-Orizaba-with-Nan.html
It was some time ago, but a great climb, lots of traffic trashing the huts and surrounding area, hope it's been cleaned up since I was there!
Climbed alone on a really nice late season day. Started at 3am, summitted at 8:20am, and was back to the hut at 11:30am. I saw only the Swiss guys that were in the hut. I never needed my Down jacket and only experienced cold on the glacier. The summit was windless and sunny. Still, my water froze up even in a bottle cozy, and I had to warm up my camera batteries. The glacier wasn't steep, but just long and never ending. Looking into the volcano crater was pretty amazing.
Great day with some cool SPers. Not much snow up there though.
Climbed stronger than I had my entire Mexico trip but came down with AMS for the first time at 17,300ft. on the Jamapa Glacier. This was an extremely frustrating end to an otherwise enlightening trip. Thanks to my summit team who aided my descent. I will be returning next year.
Was not able to make the summit due to HAPE at over 16,000 ft. Conditions were very snowy, had crampons on from piedra grande. Cold on the mountain, we all had our down coats on at camp. Trip report coming soon!
Wonderfull climb on Mexico's last ice, Hilde (my wife) was in an excellent shape and we did a fantastic 9 hour trip from hut to hut.
We had the great Lupe as a guide and he and his friends from Orizaba Mountain Guides are highly recommended!!!