is one of the western 3000 of Tessin (Ticino). It's set on the border with Wallis (Goms), just over Nufenen pass, where the Ticino river springs in the highest point of val Bedretto. Although there are many nearby mountains with similar elevation, Pizzo Gallina is characterized by its particular shape: the main summit is somewhat round but it is surrounded by many rocky teeth on its jagged ridge. The great Eastern ridge starting from the top looks like (with a little of fantasy) the head and the crest of the "Gallina" (it means chicken in Italian).
There are three principal ridges and every slope is steep and it's ploughed by colouir, often covered by snow in many periods of the year. At the foot there are still small glaciers.
Although the height difference is small and the altitude is not so high, all the routes to summit are mountaneering routes.
Principally they follow the natural routes of the mountain: the ridges and the colouirs. In Early summer the second are to be preferred because the are covered by snow or ice, instead in late season the movable stones make them less attractive, and so it's better to climb on the rocky ridges.
The starting point is Nufenen pass (2480 m), on the highest point of the road that links Wallis and Tessin
Main summer routes are:
1. SSE colouir (PD)
2. SE colouir (PD)
3. Sudgrat (PD)
4. Westgrat (PD+)
5. Ostgrat (PD+)
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