I felt that Point Dume, although not well known in the SP world, should be represented with al least a little information. Please add additional info as you see fit.
Point Dume is located at the tip of Point Dume State Beach
, and is well known if you ever watch commercials of people on a beach, seen "Planet of the Apes" (Charlton Heston version, scene with the Statue of Liberty), "Iron Man", or "D-Day the Sixth of June" (beach landings filmed here). Nestled in Malibu, this destination is quite nice if you're looking to catch some rays, waves and a bit of easy bolted sport or toprope routes.
From Santa Monica follow Pacific Coast Highway 18-miles west to Westward Beach Road. Turn toward the ocean, go beyond the fee collection station to the very end of the road. Park at the lot with a concession stand, walk the beach heading southeast to the prominent cliff at the edge.
The operational hours are sunrise to sunset. Point Dume SB is one of the few California State Parks that does not accept the Annual Day Use Pass. Parking is free along the beach until you come up to a gate with a manned booth (unmanned in offseason, pay via ticket machine inside lot), beyond which is $7. Continue down to end of the parking lot toward the tall cliff right on the beach. This place goes off on the weekends so free parking is a shot in the dark if past noon or so.
The climbs are on the high seaside cliff right on the beach, featuring low angled thin crimps and edging. All the face routes are 5.9 and under. Bolted anchors at the top for TR and most of the routes are bolted for sport leading, including the harder ones on the oceanside. Crowded most weekends. Please share and be courteous. And please stay on the main hiking trail to access the cliff top.
Face Routes - Northwest side of the cliff
There are 4 anchors for the face routes. A 60m rope is long enough to toprope all of them, or they are also bolted for sport climbing. In order from left to right:
Oceanside Routes - West side of the cliff
There are 3 anchors for the oceanside routes. A 60m rope is long enough to toprope all of them. In order from left to right:
- 5.10c/d (bolted)
- 5.10a (the well-established flake)
External LinksPoint Dume State Beach