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889 Hits
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76.66% Score
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7 Votes
Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon:
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39.12202°N / 110.68611°W |
Activities:
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Sport Climbing, Scrambling |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
Elevation:
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5472 ft / 1668 m |
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Overview
Point Judith is one of several roadside crags along the Buckhorn Wash Road. Really, it is just the highpoint on a sandstone ridgeline. Although it is not the most picturesque crag in the area, it does offer a fairly easy multi-pitch bolted route in a location where most climbs are single-pitch and/or much harder.
If technical rock climbing is not your thing, you can still get up top via a gully on the north side with some Class 2/3 travel. The ascent would probably take 30 minutes tops.
The approach is also short and pretty simple. All told, Point Judith and its one established route make a nice option for something such as a rest day, limited time to climb, or taking a kid on a first multi-pitch.
Getting There
Point Judith is about 0.3 mi south of the Buckhorn Wash Pictograph Panel (totally worth visiting). It is on the north side of the road, and there is a pullout that also makes a fine campsite.
From the north, there are multiple ways to get to Buckhorn Wash Road, and if that's the direction you're coming from, you're just going to have to map it on your own.
However, if you are coming in from the south via I-70, take Exit 131, turn north, head east for a few miles along the access road, and then just stay with the road when it heads north and becomes a dirt road.
After you pass the recreation area around the San Rafael River, start looking for the formation once you've gone 3 miles. If you miss it and reach the pictograph panel, just turn around and drive 0.3 mi south.
The road is passable to almost any vehicle except when wet.
Routes
To the best of my knowledge, there is just one established route here right now: Anxious Reptilian, which goes at 5.4 and 2 pitches. Please see the attached route page for details.
Red Tape
None. Practice Leave No Trace ethics.
When to Climb
Because the climbing route faces south, it's a good choice in fall, spring, and winter. In the summer, it probably gets plenty of morning shade, especially since taller walls surround it, so this really is a year-round crag as long as you mind the time of day.
Camping
There's the established campground to the south, and dispersed camping is available all over the place, including at the "trailhead."
1 Routes