In an area known for adventure climbing, these crags also have an adventure approach.
Once in there, you have several fine multi-pitch climbs from which to choose, including Death by Chocolate (5.8 and the canyon's namesake) and Road to Mecca (5.5). Some of the rock out here is among the most colorful and striking on the Reef.
Go out aware of the area's reputation for long runouts and poor rock quality. It's not a place you want to be leading at your limit.
There are 2 main ways to access the crags.
The first is from I-70. Two miles west of the exit for UT 24, turn off onto a dirt road to the right. This road leads into Black Dragon Wash, where the well-known Black Dragon pictograph panel is. Open the wire gate, reclose it after driving through, and head for an underpass. Once through it, you'll be on a dirt road that parallels the reef for about 6 miles before bending east.
Before entering the underpass, check to see if it's flooded. If it is, there is another turnoff and gate on eastbound I-70. You can get to it by crossing the highway on a service road, which technically is illegal, or by driving for quite a ways to the first exit (I believe it is 131) that allows reentry to 70 in the other direction. Of course, if you're coming from the west, this turnoff is the one you want in the first place.
The second approach is from UT 24 via a turnoff about 7 miles south of I-70 and just past MP 153. This road is said to be usually in better condition than the one from I-70, and it connects to the road that parallels the Reef.
Note: the road paralleling the Reef receives regular maintenance but does change according to conditions. I've been on it when I could have driven a regular passenger car with little trouble, and I've been on it when there have been washouts making me thankful I was in a Jeep.
2.1 miles south of I-70 on the dirt road paralleling the Reef, there is an obvious parking area on the right. Park here.
From the parking area, drop into the nearby wash and follow it, keeping a sense of where the mouth of the canyon is. Eventually, head up an easy slab on the right and drop into another wash; this one takes you to the mouth of the canyon. The canyon quickly becomes a slot, and if there's water in it, you won't be happy unless the weather's warm. Even so, it's supposed to be 4th Class, and when I viewed the slot from above, I found myself thinking it didn't look easy.
If the slot has water in it or you just don't want to deal with it, find a scrambling route outside the mouth and just right of it. It will take you to a bolted rappel station where you can make a 100' rappel. You'll have to climb back up on the way out; apparently, the route is called Aquaphobia and goes at 5.4. It's pretty easy, and there are some placements, but rock quality again makes this a don't-fall route.
After the slot or rappel, it's easy hiking and scrambling to the route you want to climb.
Following is a list of the routes in alphabetical order. Some of these routes are outside the mouth of the canyon, not within the canyon. This is just to give you an idea of the range available.
Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. For example, the
Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' The
Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children.
Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.