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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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45.44400°N / 25.45500°E |
Route Type:
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In summer: easy rock climbing; in winter: ice clim |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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PD+/ AD- (max UIAA III) |
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Approach
From the city Busteni you will go by the road to Hotel Gura Diham (5 km, 1 hour). Here you will cross the river and will find an unmarked path that will lead to a small hut (1 hour). From this hut you will have an marked path (red) and you will follow this path to the right. After 10 min. you will reach the valley Bujorilor, cross this smal valley and follow the marked path and after 20 min. you will reach the next valley (Morarului valley). From this point you will leave the marked path and will follow the path that is on the right side of Morarului valley. After 20 min. you will reach in a very beautiful place with a nice view to gendarmes Morarului and the starting point for:
1. Poienii valley
2. Tancurilor valley
3. Rapa zapezii valley
4. Adanca valley
5. Morarului valley
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Route Description
This route needs to have 2 descriptions: For summer and for winter.
In winter it`s a very beautiful ice climbing route with max. slopes 60.
In summer it`s an easy rock climbing route with max. UIAA III.
This valley has a shape Y. The both branches have the same difficulty.
The top of the route is on Ridge Morarului between the Big gendarme and the Red gendarme. Follow the ridge to the right to peak Omu.
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Essential Gear
For summer: rope, 2-3 pitons
For winter: Rope, crampons, ice axes